What NOT to do.
#1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQZqSYnP...e=youtu.be

Was drifting around on YT and stumbled on this.
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#2
looks good to me Cool
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#3
So that is how you finish a 80% lower. With JB weld. And a pink rattle can.
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#4
He said he used a "sticker jig"... I looked it up and it is stickers that cost $4. Maybe he will get the proper drill jig and bits for the next 80% project. I'm sure he will do better on the next one. I had thought about getting a few 80% lowers for myself but ended up buying 3 lowers from a local manufacture after watching a few YouTube videos.
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#5
A "sticker jig", now that's some precision tooling. I've finished six 80% lowers and have two more I plan to finish when I get inspired to do new builds. They all function as they should, but the first two needed some "minor adjustment". It's not that difficult to do with a good jig and having a drill press also helps. However these cost more than $4.00.
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#6
The color suits him. He has got to be an eggspurt!
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#7
I couldn’t even finish the video. Idiot hack job.If I were him ,I would’ve been embarrassed to post the video.Before I ever attempted to finish an 80% lower I watch videos and I went to a friend of mine’s house and watched him do a few.
I Purchased a jig online that I use with my router. I believe it cost around $200.All my 80% lowers work perfectly and look just like any AR lower. In fact I’ve had most of them laser engraved and either anodized or cerakoted.
I have built a few A.R. 15‘s with 80% lowers. But I felt it was a hassle. It cost me less to buy a complete lower from PSA. I don’t see a big advantage. I’m not worried about anyone taking anything I own either way.
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#8
I think he posted it because he wanted someone to help him "fix" it. Does JB weld even stick to polymer worth a dam?
Dull tooling just melted that plastic crap. "But it looked easy on you tube"

I am a 45 year machinist, with Bridgeport, lathe, surface grinder, etc. I have done one 80% and it was perfect when finished, but I agree that it is more trouble than it was worth, and less expensive in time and money just to buy a decent lower.

That kind of workmanship on a rifle purely makes me sick.

Maybe if he gets a few more poly lowers and practices a lot, he might be able to make a serviceable unit, but not that one.
Somehow, I don't think he was looking for a challenge, he just wanted a ghost rifle, Cheep!
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#9
Yeah sure go with an 80% lower when you want 50% reliability or in this guys lower zero percent reliability
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#10
Bronz Wrote:Yeah sure go with an 80% lower when you want 50% reliability or in this guys lower zero percent reliability
The idiot in the video used a sticker to mark where he was going to drill the holes. If you spend $175 and buy a jig,and use a router or drill press, Your lower will look factory when you’re done. mine all work 100% of the time.
I’ve got one that I had laser engraved “Mattel”on it.And it’s Keracoted in orange with white logo . Did the hand guard and buffer tube too. A shooting acquaintance at the club likes it so much He’s offered me $1000 for the complete lower. But I’ll never do that. $500 is in the Geissele NM trigger and butt stock alone.
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#11
I want mine to be yellow and say "TONKA" on it.
Nothing kills the incentive of men faster than a healthy sense of entitlement. Nothing kills entitlement faster than a healthy sense of achievement.
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#12
my 20 inch grendel is on an 80% lower no problems what so ever, i bought mine to replace an oem lower i had it on well mainly cause a skelotonized lower isnt cheap lol and it was something to kill time with lol
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#13
I hope he cut that thing up or melted down or something. I never in my life lol
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