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I see forums like a Dog pound, a new dog comes in and the so called Dominate dog will try and impose themselves.
Anyway Ive enjoy the banter in this thread but some of you reloading guru's need to take a chill pill, it aint an a pissing competition and old info also always a good reminder to keeps us on our reloading toes. cheers
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Thanks Klem and Lemonaid for your data
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If anyone does have CBOL data and would like to share how they measured it, I'd still be interested.
I know my Weatherby has a long throat and I'm assuming the Grendel being aimed at the AR15 platform would be restricted.
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In regards to holding a case to drill and tap, here is the method I use. Put a full length die in your press with no decapping rod in place. Rotate your shell holder so the shell opening is opposite the opening you slid it into the ram. Lube a case and push it all the way up into the die, leave the ram up! Slide the shell holder out of the ram. Unthread the die. Place the die into a lathe and drill and tap the appropriate size (5/16-36 for Hornady LnL). When this is done, reverse the process to extract the case from the die.
Now you have to expand the neck so a bullet will move freely, but the neck isn't tight to the chamber giving you a false reading. You want the case to fit into the rifle easily and be able to move the bullet as well.
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CBTO on my howa - 2.32. Idk how far from the lands it is but I slowly lowered the die until the bolt closed without too much force using lapua brass and boolits.
FYI these regular guys just try to help. I?m here on and off but every time I see someone all for help there give the best information to their knowledge and they are very knowledgeable.
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PGW Steve Wrote:In regards to holding a case to drill and tap, here is the method I use. Put a full length die in your press with no decapping rod in place. Rotate your shell holder so the shell opening is opposite the opening you slid it into the ram. Lube a case and push it all the way up into the die, leave the ram up! Slide the shell holder out of the ram. Unthread the die. Place the die into a lathe and drill and tap the appropriate size (5/16-36 for Hornady LnL). When this is done, reverse the process to extract the case from the die.
Now you have to expand the neck so a bullet will move freely, but the neck isn't tight to the chamber giving you a false reading. You want the case to fit into the rifle easily and be able to move the bullet as well.
That is exactly what I do, except that I made a simple fixture for the lathe so I could just screw in the die and indicate it in. Works.
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Charlie, Steve,
Why do you jam the case in to the die and then fit the whole die in the jaws of the lathe? Wouldn't it be easier to just grip the case by itself if all you want to do it drill a hole in the base and thread it? What am I missing here?
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Keeps the case square and centered. so we can drill and tap square and centered, with the machine.
Too shaky a setup trying to hold a tapered case in lathe jaws and keep it true.(or even hold it without distortion) For me anyway.
When you remove the case from the die it doesn't have scratches or distortions, the die has plenty of grip, if you go slow. I actually use a small drill to get thru, and then a tiny carbide boring bar to bring it to size for the tap. Cartridge brass can be tougher than one would think. Which may be a reason why the threads are so fine.
There a few different ways to make a fixture for either lathe or mill.
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Klem Wrote:Charlie, Steve,
Why do you jam the case in to the die and then fit the whole die in the jaws of the lathe? Wouldn't it be easier to just grip the case by itself if all you want to do it drill a hole in the base and thread it? What am I missing here?
Gavintube vid on making a modified case, and why you need a metal lathe.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAkbuJk6qQE
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I like my fixture much better than jamming the knurled part of the die body into a collet, he has the general idea though.
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Klem Wrote:Charlie, Steve,
Why do you jam the case in to the die and then fit the whole die in the jaws of the lathe? Wouldn't it be easier to just grip the case by itself if all you want to do it drill a hole in the base and thread it? What am I missing here?
Putting the case in the die holds the whole case in compression with even pressure. With a 3 or 4 jaw chuck, you are contacting on 3-4 small points on a thin wall so it's easy to distort the wall with minimal pressure. Long ago prior to doing the die trick, having the drill or tap grab will cause the case to spin and chew up the outside. As Charlie mentioned, it holds the case square. You know how much force it takes to FLS a case when you jam it up there, and it makes a pretty good tug getting it out, thus the case is held secure.
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I see, that makes sense, thanks
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Excuse me, we have 45 post, 46 including this one, two that gave some measurements. What was the original question?
Ogive measurement, COAL?
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12-18-2019, 07:00 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-20-2019, 06:39 PM by ported45.)
Cbol
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65Whelen Wrote:Excuse me, we have 45 post, 46 including this one, two that gave some measurements. What was the original question?
Ogive measurement, COAL?
This is one of THOSE forums I'm afraid.
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Code4 Wrote:This is one of THOSE forums I'm afraid.
Never mind. I was hoping to get back to the original question but apparently you're not interested in that.
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Clove8 Wrote:I purchased the tap to drill and tap my own cases for this exact reason, a ?modified case? over the counter is not precisely the same neck and shoulder that your loads are. I deprime and size a case drill and tap the primer pocket. I then split the neck and the first bend transition of the shoulder smooth the cut inside and out with a jewelers file and walla the hornady overall length gauge is ready. By buying the tap I can use this method on every rifle I load for.
same and once found make a dummy round and can put the dummy in when loading that load again and screw seeting stem against the bullet in the dummy and lock in place. Makes duplicating that round very easy
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