04-28-2020, 02:14 AM
I have yet to see a billet upper shear off the pivot pin or Takedown pin lugs.
I have seen that happen on multiple 7075T6 forged uppers and have one that a LGS broke and gave me, though I've never done it myself since I don't use the type of upper receiver Panther Claw-type tool that is notorious for it.
Under abusive high volume fire, the type of metallurgy used in an upper receiver, whether forged or billet, has not manifest itself as to which one is superior until you have a catastrophic malfunction due to an ammunition fault.
The thinnest billet upper I've seen take a catastrophic malfunction was a 2A Armament someone posted up.
It fared better than any forged upper has.
While the forged upper grain structure is compressed and flows with the forging dies, they are always finish-machined of course.
If you've ever seen a forged blank upper receiver, it's just a solid hunk shaped like an upper, but without any cutting operations done to it yet.
![[Image: ?u=https%3A%2F%2Fadvancedautomotion.com%...f=1&nofb=1]](https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fadvancedautomotion.com%2Fshop%2Fimages%2Far15%2520forged%2520upper.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
Once you do the finish machining on an upper, there are some very thin areas up front above the barrel extension tunnel and you've cut into the integrity of the forging with multiple deep and exterior passes with a mill, all of which are CNC nowadays on a tight timeline for maximum output and minimum machine time. The receiver wall around the ejection port is also very thin, especially below the port, to the extent that you can easily flex it with your hand and break it if you apply too much pressure.
Where a lot of billet uppers have their benefits is in using more meat in those traditionally-thin areas.
In the case of the guy that ran some notorious ammo for kabooms in his 2A Balios Lite receiver set, there was hardly any damage. A lot of us expected that type of upper to fragment like an old Mk.II pineapple grenade like M4 uppers normally do.
Almost always with kabooms, you'll see the extractor peeled back, bolt lugs broken, sometimes the fake vismod barrel extensions will fail, the carrier will split down the failure nodes in the cartridge recess channels, and the upper will other split like a banana peeled in the middle, like an umbrella, or just will fly to the four winds if it's energetic enough.
Of course, the 2A Balios kb was just one sample size, but on heavier billet uppers when someone has had a kb, you see a lot more survive and live on to shoot another day once the bolt is replaced.
Since the OP is looking for a good match for a heavier barrel, I recommend a beefier billet upper from an upper end manufacturer with a reputation who uses Aircraft Quality 7075T6 and tighter-controlled billet stock. Not all billet is created equally, and there are several companies out there cutting corners by using 6061 because it machines so much faster and tool heads last longer. They can sell these for less and at higher volumes compared to 7075T6 parts.
Anodizing also plays a role in surface hardness, and many companies cut corners on anodizing, or don't have consistent anodizing. Contrary to popular gun counter claims, the Mil-Std Type III Hard Coat anodizing is a hard standard to maintain in the after-market, and many companies still don't fully understand the benefits of it. If they do, they often don't care and will accept whatever results they get from the anodizer they outsource to, since that requires its own industrial base.
All that said, most of my AR15s have forged receiver sets because I prefer lightweight fire sticks that I can shoot from alternate positions to prone or bench, carry them around all day if needed, and not lug around a beast of a rifle.
I have seen that happen on multiple 7075T6 forged uppers and have one that a LGS broke and gave me, though I've never done it myself since I don't use the type of upper receiver Panther Claw-type tool that is notorious for it.
Under abusive high volume fire, the type of metallurgy used in an upper receiver, whether forged or billet, has not manifest itself as to which one is superior until you have a catastrophic malfunction due to an ammunition fault.
The thinnest billet upper I've seen take a catastrophic malfunction was a 2A Armament someone posted up.
It fared better than any forged upper has.
While the forged upper grain structure is compressed and flows with the forging dies, they are always finish-machined of course.
If you've ever seen a forged blank upper receiver, it's just a solid hunk shaped like an upper, but without any cutting operations done to it yet.
![[Image: ?u=https%3A%2F%2Fadvancedautomotion.com%...f=1&nofb=1]](https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fadvancedautomotion.com%2Fshop%2Fimages%2Far15%2520forged%2520upper.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
Once you do the finish machining on an upper, there are some very thin areas up front above the barrel extension tunnel and you've cut into the integrity of the forging with multiple deep and exterior passes with a mill, all of which are CNC nowadays on a tight timeline for maximum output and minimum machine time. The receiver wall around the ejection port is also very thin, especially below the port, to the extent that you can easily flex it with your hand and break it if you apply too much pressure.
Where a lot of billet uppers have their benefits is in using more meat in those traditionally-thin areas.
In the case of the guy that ran some notorious ammo for kabooms in his 2A Balios Lite receiver set, there was hardly any damage. A lot of us expected that type of upper to fragment like an old Mk.II pineapple grenade like M4 uppers normally do.
Almost always with kabooms, you'll see the extractor peeled back, bolt lugs broken, sometimes the fake vismod barrel extensions will fail, the carrier will split down the failure nodes in the cartridge recess channels, and the upper will other split like a banana peeled in the middle, like an umbrella, or just will fly to the four winds if it's energetic enough.
Of course, the 2A Balios kb was just one sample size, but on heavier billet uppers when someone has had a kb, you see a lot more survive and live on to shoot another day once the bolt is replaced.
Since the OP is looking for a good match for a heavier barrel, I recommend a beefier billet upper from an upper end manufacturer with a reputation who uses Aircraft Quality 7075T6 and tighter-controlled billet stock. Not all billet is created equally, and there are several companies out there cutting corners by using 6061 because it machines so much faster and tool heads last longer. They can sell these for less and at higher volumes compared to 7075T6 parts.
Anodizing also plays a role in surface hardness, and many companies cut corners on anodizing, or don't have consistent anodizing. Contrary to popular gun counter claims, the Mil-Std Type III Hard Coat anodizing is a hard standard to maintain in the after-market, and many companies still don't fully understand the benefits of it. If they do, they often don't care and will accept whatever results they get from the anodizer they outsource to, since that requires its own industrial base.
All that said, most of my AR15s have forged receiver sets because I prefer lightweight fire sticks that I can shoot from alternate positions to prone or bench, carry them around all day if needed, and not lug around a beast of a rifle.
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO
CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor
6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:
www.AR15buildbox.com
CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor
6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:
www.AR15buildbox.com
