<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">
	<channel>
		<title><![CDATA[Forums - Technical Knowledge]]></title>
		<link>https://65grendel.com/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Forums - https://65grendel.com]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Sep 2026 01:47:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<generator>MyBB</generator>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Lets talk barrels with Jeff Siewart]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=25785</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jul 2023 09:33:22 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=2787">LRRPF52</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=25785</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[[video=youtube_share;eVzIZKCDaXM]https://youtu.be/eVzIZKCDaXM[/video]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[[video=youtube_share;eVzIZKCDaXM]https://youtu.be/eVzIZKCDaXM[/video]]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[The AR TDP]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24924</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 10 Sep 2022 20:26:37 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=30">montana</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24924</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[If anyone is interested I found the TDP for the M-4A1 and M-16 here. Click on Technical Data Packages, Scroll down to find the M-16 TDP<br />
<br />
Now you will know if your parts are in spec and within tolerance..<a href="https://thegatalog.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">https://thegatalog.com/</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[If anyone is interested I found the TDP for the M-4A1 and M-16 here. Click on Technical Data Packages, Scroll down to find the M-16 TDP<br />
<br />
Now you will know if your parts are in spec and within tolerance..<a href="https://thegatalog.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">https://thegatalog.com/</a>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[BCG dissection]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24744</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 24 Jul 2022 19:01:37 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=130646">Scouttracker</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24744</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I found this great video from<br />
School of the American  Rifle. <br />
 Its about 14 minutes long, but worth watching , it's called. <br />
FAIL ZERO AR-15 BCG AUTOPSY]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I found this great video from<br />
School of the American  Rifle. <br />
 Its about 14 minutes long, but worth watching , it's called. <br />
FAIL ZERO AR-15 BCG AUTOPSY]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[AR 15 Armorers Course]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24634</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 18 Jun 2022 08:17:12 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=126298">CJW</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24634</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Great Unwashed,<br />
<br />
I want to learn more about the AR platform.    Ive built lowers and uppers that have shot well, but it has really been a hell of a struggle for me.<br />
<br />
My lowers look as if they have been put together with a 2 lb claw hammer, a bench grinder &amp; JB Weld. <br />
<br />
Its time for me to really learn to do it right, what tools to buy, best components to buy etc.  <br />
<br />
YouTube has been a great help but I need hands on training. <br />
<br />
Basically this is what I want to do, I want to show up with a box of parts and walk away with a new AR &amp; every tool that the pros use to do the job.   <br />
<br />
Can you recommend a school for me?<br />
<br />
Live Big,<br />
<br />
Chuck]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Great Unwashed,<br />
<br />
I want to learn more about the AR platform.    Ive built lowers and uppers that have shot well, but it has really been a hell of a struggle for me.<br />
<br />
My lowers look as if they have been put together with a 2 lb claw hammer, a bench grinder &amp; JB Weld. <br />
<br />
Its time for me to really learn to do it right, what tools to buy, best components to buy etc.  <br />
<br />
YouTube has been a great help but I need hands on training. <br />
<br />
Basically this is what I want to do, I want to show up with a box of parts and walk away with a new AR &amp; every tool that the pros use to do the job.   <br />
<br />
Can you recommend a school for me?<br />
<br />
Live Big,<br />
<br />
Chuck]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Using QuickTarget]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24505</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 02 May 2022 10:34:24 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=125326">jasper2408</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24505</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I moved this subject from another thread so that you can post graphs and discuss QuickTarget and keep the other thread on topic.<br />
<br />
I am going to go thru this as if you have never used QT so bear with me here:<br />
<br />
1. Set up your first cartridge load in QuickLoad(QL), as QL has to be open for QuickTarget(QT) to work and transfer data.<br />
<br />
2. Go to QT and click on the button that says "Receive Data from Quickload". This will open up the Graph window and plot your first cartridge.<br />
<br />
2a. In QT Unlimited, to transfer the data from QL, you use the button that has the arrow pointing to it. Everything else is the same as QT.<br />
<br />
[url=<img src="https://i.ibb.co/nbRy9zK/QTUButtons.png" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: QTUButtons.png]" class="mycode_img" />]<img src="https://i.ibb.co/nbRy9zK/QTUButtons.png" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: QTUButtons.png]" class="mycode_img" />[/url]<br />
<br />
3. Right click on the graph of the first plot and click on "Save as Reference". This locks the first plot so you can add the next cartridge plot from QL.<br />
<br />
4. Go back to QL and set up your next cartridge.<br />
<br />
5. Go back to QT and click on "Receive Data from Quickload" again. This will add your second plot to the first. I have been able to add 3 different cartridges to the plot so far. I do not know how many you can plot but I know 3 for sure. If you want to add a 3rd cartridge or load then right click on the graph again and choose "Set Reference" again and it will keep the 2 cartridges plotted. Then you go back to QL and make another cartridge and then go back to QT and start at Step 2 again.<br />
<br />
6. When you are done and want to make a different plot then right click on the plot graph again and select "Delete Reference". The graph will leave the last data that is in the "Table Setup" window. If you want to start a new graph just go back to QL and setup another load and cartridge and then go back to QT and start at Step 2 again. This will start a new plotted graph.<br />
<br />
I am going to include how to change temperature and elevation in case anyone hasn't done that before and wants to know how.<br />
<br />
On the below Table Graph window in QT is a button labeled "New ATMO Data". Click on that button and the window to the right will pop up. There are 4 radio buttons to choose from and I use the bottom selection so that it will use my temp and elevation in the calculations. The other settings in the popup are pretty self explantory. Then hit "Apply and Exit" and it will calculate the graph with your settings. You can change the temp to either higher or lower and it will update the plotted cartridges with the new data you entered.<br />
<br />
There is another option under "Copy To" at the top of the main window that lets you put it in Excel. I don't have Excel so it wouldn't let me use that option. I wanted to modify the lines on the graph to make them more ledgeable. I did use the "Copy To&gt;Clipboard" and it copies the graph to my Calc program or to the Writer program in LibreOffice. Doesn't let you modify anything though.<br />
<br />
That should just about do it. Hope this makes sense.<br />
<br />
[url=<img src="https://i.ibb.co/MNRvyH8/Atmosphere-Setup.png" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: Atmosphere-Setup.png]" class="mycode_img" />]<img src="https://i.ibb.co/MNRvyH8/Atmosphere-Setup.png" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: Atmosphere-Setup.png]" class="mycode_img" />[/url]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I moved this subject from another thread so that you can post graphs and discuss QuickTarget and keep the other thread on topic.<br />
<br />
I am going to go thru this as if you have never used QT so bear with me here:<br />
<br />
1. Set up your first cartridge load in QuickLoad(QL), as QL has to be open for QuickTarget(QT) to work and transfer data.<br />
<br />
2. Go to QT and click on the button that says "Receive Data from Quickload". This will open up the Graph window and plot your first cartridge.<br />
<br />
2a. In QT Unlimited, to transfer the data from QL, you use the button that has the arrow pointing to it. Everything else is the same as QT.<br />
<br />
[url=<img src="https://i.ibb.co/nbRy9zK/QTUButtons.png" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: QTUButtons.png]" class="mycode_img" />]<img src="https://i.ibb.co/nbRy9zK/QTUButtons.png" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: QTUButtons.png]" class="mycode_img" />[/url]<br />
<br />
3. Right click on the graph of the first plot and click on "Save as Reference". This locks the first plot so you can add the next cartridge plot from QL.<br />
<br />
4. Go back to QL and set up your next cartridge.<br />
<br />
5. Go back to QT and click on "Receive Data from Quickload" again. This will add your second plot to the first. I have been able to add 3 different cartridges to the plot so far. I do not know how many you can plot but I know 3 for sure. If you want to add a 3rd cartridge or load then right click on the graph again and choose "Set Reference" again and it will keep the 2 cartridges plotted. Then you go back to QL and make another cartridge and then go back to QT and start at Step 2 again.<br />
<br />
6. When you are done and want to make a different plot then right click on the plot graph again and select "Delete Reference". The graph will leave the last data that is in the "Table Setup" window. If you want to start a new graph just go back to QL and setup another load and cartridge and then go back to QT and start at Step 2 again. This will start a new plotted graph.<br />
<br />
I am going to include how to change temperature and elevation in case anyone hasn't done that before and wants to know how.<br />
<br />
On the below Table Graph window in QT is a button labeled "New ATMO Data". Click on that button and the window to the right will pop up. There are 4 radio buttons to choose from and I use the bottom selection so that it will use my temp and elevation in the calculations. The other settings in the popup are pretty self explantory. Then hit "Apply and Exit" and it will calculate the graph with your settings. You can change the temp to either higher or lower and it will update the plotted cartridges with the new data you entered.<br />
<br />
There is another option under "Copy To" at the top of the main window that lets you put it in Excel. I don't have Excel so it wouldn't let me use that option. I wanted to modify the lines on the graph to make them more ledgeable. I did use the "Copy To&gt;Clipboard" and it copies the graph to my Calc program or to the Writer program in LibreOffice. Doesn't let you modify anything though.<br />
<br />
That should just about do it. Hope this makes sense.<br />
<br />
[url=<img src="https://i.ibb.co/MNRvyH8/Atmosphere-Setup.png" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: Atmosphere-Setup.png]" class="mycode_img" />]<img src="https://i.ibb.co/MNRvyH8/Atmosphere-Setup.png" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: Atmosphere-Setup.png]" class="mycode_img" />[/url]]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Suppressed bolt gun]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24428</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 02 Apr 2022 08:31:04 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=130407">GrendelGoof</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24428</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all! First post and excited to be here. <br />
<br />
Building my Howa mini HB Grendel and reading a lot on suppressors. <br />
<br />
I see a lot of discussion about back pressure. I know thats a concern with the ARs, but is it something I need to consider with a bolt gun?<br />
<br />
Pretty set on the Dead Air Nomad Ti. Mainly precision and hunting applications, so rapid fire overheating isnt a concern.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi all! First post and excited to be here. <br />
<br />
Building my Howa mini HB Grendel and reading a lot on suppressors. <br />
<br />
I see a lot of discussion about back pressure. I know thats a concern with the ARs, but is it something I need to consider with a bolt gun?<br />
<br />
Pretty set on the Dead Air Nomad Ti. Mainly precision and hunting applications, so rapid fire overheating isnt a concern.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Checking your annealing]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24403</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 26 Mar 2022 15:29:39 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=125326">jasper2408</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=24403</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I was surfing on Utube today and came across a video of a fellow that had a method on how he checked the hardness of his case necks before and after he annealed the case. I am always seeing  comments and videos on how to tell whether you got your cases annealed to the correct temperature but nobody can actually say whether they got it right or not. Some of you might have seen this method before but I hadn't so I thought I would post the link to the video. Go to the 22 minute mark and that is where he starts to talk about how he checks his cases to see if he got the correct annealing temp. He shows a PPU case with a hardness of 17 and then anneals it down to 13 hardness so he knows that it was annealed correctly. You have to check each brand and lot of new brass to see what the hardness is so that you can anneal it long enough to get it back to original hardness.<br />
<br />
This is the W-20B Hardness testing tool and it has a 6mm(.2362) shaft so 6.5 case necks should fit on it without modification. This one is about &#36;375.00(shipped) and it is a cheap one but does the job.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://ibb.co/NyFZky1" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/G5dc15s/W-20b-Tester.png" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: W-20b-Tester.png]" class="mycode_img" /></a><br />
<br />
Here is the video if you are interested:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SF0YmmeEJK4" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SF0YmmeEJK4</a><br />
<br />
Update: Shows in more detail how he is checking the neck hardness:<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=but_JGdqx4c" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=but_JGdqx4c</a><br />
<br />
Just thought this was a way to check for sure if you are getting your cases annealed correctly.<br />
<br />
Edit: The annealing machine that the fella uses is one that he built himself. It is a pretty neat piece of equipment.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I was surfing on Utube today and came across a video of a fellow that had a method on how he checked the hardness of his case necks before and after he annealed the case. I am always seeing  comments and videos on how to tell whether you got your cases annealed to the correct temperature but nobody can actually say whether they got it right or not. Some of you might have seen this method before but I hadn't so I thought I would post the link to the video. Go to the 22 minute mark and that is where he starts to talk about how he checks his cases to see if he got the correct annealing temp. He shows a PPU case with a hardness of 17 and then anneals it down to 13 hardness so he knows that it was annealed correctly. You have to check each brand and lot of new brass to see what the hardness is so that you can anneal it long enough to get it back to original hardness.<br />
<br />
This is the W-20B Hardness testing tool and it has a 6mm(.2362) shaft so 6.5 case necks should fit on it without modification. This one is about &#36;375.00(shipped) and it is a cheap one but does the job.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://ibb.co/NyFZky1" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/G5dc15s/W-20b-Tester.png" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: W-20b-Tester.png]" class="mycode_img" /></a><br />
<br />
Here is the video if you are interested:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SF0YmmeEJK4" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SF0YmmeEJK4</a><br />
<br />
Update: Shows in more detail how he is checking the neck hardness:<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=but_JGdqx4c" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=but_JGdqx4c</a><br />
<br />
Just thought this was a way to check for sure if you are getting your cases annealed correctly.<br />
<br />
Edit: The annealing machine that the fella uses is one that he built himself. It is a pretty neat piece of equipment.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Torquing action and scope screws properly]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=23677</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 30 Aug 2021 08:46:14 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=125326">jasper2408</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=23677</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I ran upon this video about torquing action screws and scope screws. There is some good info in the video. I did learn some things that I did not know.<br />
<br />
Just thought someone else might gain from the info presented in the video.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2xn9tNQtfs" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2xn9tNQtfs</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I ran upon this video about torquing action screws and scope screws. There is some good info in the video. I did learn some things that I did not know.<br />
<br />
Just thought someone else might gain from the info presented in the video.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2xn9tNQtfs" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2xn9tNQtfs</a>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Question on "tread marks" close to the case head]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=23644</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Aug 2021 19:06:13 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=120938">grayfox</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=23644</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I received some 308 brass from a friend, and after cleaning and sizing it, I have a question hopefully someone has the answer to.<br />
Several of them have what looks like small "tread marks" around the outside of the case, down close to the case head.  What does this mean, and are they ok to shoot?<br />
<br />
I'll paste in a picture of this.<br />
[ATTACH=CONFIG]18127[/ATTACH]<br />
<br />
<img src="https://65grendel.com/images/attachtypes/image.png" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=14225" target="_blank" title="">img-0447-small.jpg</a> (Size: 40.18 KB / Downloads: 51)
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I received some 308 brass from a friend, and after cleaning and sizing it, I have a question hopefully someone has the answer to.<br />
Several of them have what looks like small "tread marks" around the outside of the case, down close to the case head.  What does this mean, and are they ok to shoot?<br />
<br />
I'll paste in a picture of this.<br />
[ATTACH=CONFIG]18127[/ATTACH]<br />
<br />
<img src="https://65grendel.com/images/attachtypes/image.png" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=14225" target="_blank" title="">img-0447-small.jpg</a> (Size: 40.18 KB / Downloads: 51)
]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[A "thank you" to Odin Works]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=23539</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 13 Jul 2021 21:04:46 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=129607">Micke</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=23539</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[When I signed up, I mentioned that I'd bought a PSA 6.5 Grendel barrel/bolt combo on sale.  I've built that into an upper but haven't shot it yet.<br />
<br />
Since then, I bought an Odin Works 6.5 Grendel barrel - 20" DMR.  I built an upper for that with info I found here and from Bill Alexander and Joe Carlos.<br />
<br />
I'm a DIY amateur gunsmith (on my stuff only) and have been for 40 plus years.    <br />
<br />
I traveled to the NRA Whittington Center today and had 5 to test and sight in.  <br />
<br />
The Odin Works barrel is not nearly broken in yet but is exceeding my expectations and it is doing it with factory ammo (Hornady Black 123gr ELD-M)  <br />
<br />
So thank you Odin Works!  It's the best AR barrel I own!  <img src="https://65grendel.com/images/smilies/biggrin.png" alt="Big Grin" title="Big Grin" class="smilie smilie_4" /><br />
<br />
The other new rock star today was a Volquartsen Black Mamba 22LR.  After only 20 rounds, it is already crazy accurate with SK match ammo!<br />
<br />
<br />
The sight-in range at NRAWC is down for rebuild indefinitely so they are allowing centerfire sight in on the 100 yard rimfire range.  That's where I shot today.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[When I signed up, I mentioned that I'd bought a PSA 6.5 Grendel barrel/bolt combo on sale.  I've built that into an upper but haven't shot it yet.<br />
<br />
Since then, I bought an Odin Works 6.5 Grendel barrel - 20" DMR.  I built an upper for that with info I found here and from Bill Alexander and Joe Carlos.<br />
<br />
I'm a DIY amateur gunsmith (on my stuff only) and have been for 40 plus years.    <br />
<br />
I traveled to the NRA Whittington Center today and had 5 to test and sight in.  <br />
<br />
The Odin Works barrel is not nearly broken in yet but is exceeding my expectations and it is doing it with factory ammo (Hornady Black 123gr ELD-M)  <br />
<br />
So thank you Odin Works!  It's the best AR barrel I own!  <img src="https://65grendel.com/images/smilies/biggrin.png" alt="Big Grin" title="Big Grin" class="smilie smilie_4" /><br />
<br />
The other new rock star today was a Volquartsen Black Mamba 22LR.  After only 20 rounds, it is already crazy accurate with SK match ammo!<br />
<br />
<br />
The sight-in range at NRAWC is down for rebuild indefinitely so they are allowing centerfire sight in on the 100 yard rimfire range.  That's where I shot today.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Henry H001 sight question]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=23536</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 13 Jul 2021 06:00:57 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=129630">323Heiko</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=23536</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I recently purchased a Henry H001. It's my first lever gun. When I took it to the range for the first time it was shooting to the right 12 inches from the point of aim at 25 yards (indoor range). I adjusted the rear sight but in order to get the gun to hit where I am aiming the rear sight is noticeably off to the left side of the barrel. My guess would be about 3/8's of an inch maybe a little more. <br />
<br />
I spoke with a few people at the range and no one thought this was normal. I also tried several different types of ammo with the same results. So i need help with <a href="https://www.huntershalt.com/best-henry-h001-sights/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">henry h001 sights</a>.<br />
<br />
I'm wondering should I contact Henry or is this a normal occurrence?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I recently purchased a Henry H001. It's my first lever gun. When I took it to the range for the first time it was shooting to the right 12 inches from the point of aim at 25 yards (indoor range). I adjusted the rear sight but in order to get the gun to hit where I am aiming the rear sight is noticeably off to the left side of the barrel. My guess would be about 3/8's of an inch maybe a little more. <br />
<br />
I spoke with a few people at the range and no one thought this was normal. I also tried several different types of ammo with the same results. So i need help with <a href="https://www.huntershalt.com/best-henry-h001-sights/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">henry h001 sights</a>.<br />
<br />
I'm wondering should I contact Henry or is this a normal occurrence?]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[.875 gas block and handguard clearance]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=22774</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jan 2021 09:32:43 -0700</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=129146">Rick2001</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=22774</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Good morning.<br />
I am in the process of swapping a Grendel hunter 22" barrel with a 20" Bartlein.<br />
I was thinking to reuse the G.H. 19" free-floating handguard but then I remembered that the Bartlein comes with a.875 adjustable gas block.<br />
Checking the current setup I have noticed that the .750 gas block almost touches the handguard so I assume that the .875 will not fit.<br />
So, now I am looking for advice to find a free-floating handguard that will clear the new gas block, the size should be between 16" and 18".<br />
If the handguard has a barrel nut that needs no indexing is a plus<br />
Thank you in advance for the help<br />
<br />
Current situation:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://am3pap004files.storage.live.com/y4myOXpRxJqmOhn9BLUjd7JzK1r4in_dMOshCf2ogmEk9OTD8ZkwWEa_OakC27_Yoe1Nb5GtPo9DFicGYytXLl_tQtB7JbeILoD27rhIs3BRwc1rjxRkULmz9AJAuk8q3g3wVHIN3ArrrILlFs4VY6OTyE9PzzH759PD3RmTRSMoG9fXBMN8I221BsnksgMc-6z?width=3024&amp;height=4032&amp;cropmode=none" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: y4myOXpRxJqmOhn9BLUjd7JzK1r4in_dMOshCf2o...pmode=none]" class="mycode_img" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Good morning.<br />
I am in the process of swapping a Grendel hunter 22" barrel with a 20" Bartlein.<br />
I was thinking to reuse the G.H. 19" free-floating handguard but then I remembered that the Bartlein comes with a.875 adjustable gas block.<br />
Checking the current setup I have noticed that the .750 gas block almost touches the handguard so I assume that the .875 will not fit.<br />
So, now I am looking for advice to find a free-floating handguard that will clear the new gas block, the size should be between 16" and 18".<br />
If the handguard has a barrel nut that needs no indexing is a plus<br />
Thank you in advance for the help<br />
<br />
Current situation:<br />
<br />
<img src="https://am3pap004files.storage.live.com/y4myOXpRxJqmOhn9BLUjd7JzK1r4in_dMOshCf2ogmEk9OTD8ZkwWEa_OakC27_Yoe1Nb5GtPo9DFicGYytXLl_tQtB7JbeILoD27rhIs3BRwc1rjxRkULmz9AJAuk8q3g3wVHIN3ArrrILlFs4VY6OTyE9PzzH759PD3RmTRSMoG9fXBMN8I221BsnksgMc-6z?width=3024&amp;height=4032&amp;cropmode=none" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: y4myOXpRxJqmOhn9BLUjd7JzK1r4in_dMOshCf2o...pmode=none]" class="mycode_img" />]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Concussive Hearing Loss]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=22734</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2021 14:00:07 -0700</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=126300">Fess</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=22734</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Here is an interesting article that I saw at the AccurateShooter website.  As some of us get older, we become more aware of hearing loss and say to ourselves "If I had only known..."<br />
<br />
I knew that the blast from a braked 50 BMG could do damage, but had not realized that you could lose hearing from the concussive blast of a typical firearm even if you have sufficient hearing protection.  Apparently the concussive force is transmitted though the facial bones to the tiny bones in the ear.  I would think that this is becoming more of an issue as there is increasing use of very short barrels and muzzle brakes.  The author recommends a sound suppressor, but anything done to reduce the concussive blast, including having a longer barrel or just shooting without a muzzle brake helps.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2021/01/say-what-beware-the-risks-of-concussive-hearing-loss/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2021...ring-loss/</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Here is an interesting article that I saw at the AccurateShooter website.  As some of us get older, we become more aware of hearing loss and say to ourselves "If I had only known..."<br />
<br />
I knew that the blast from a braked 50 BMG could do damage, but had not realized that you could lose hearing from the concussive blast of a typical firearm even if you have sufficient hearing protection.  Apparently the concussive force is transmitted though the facial bones to the tiny bones in the ear.  I would think that this is becoming more of an issue as there is increasing use of very short barrels and muzzle brakes.  The author recommends a sound suppressor, but anything done to reduce the concussive blast, including having a longer barrel or just shooting without a muzzle brake helps.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2021/01/say-what-beware-the-risks-of-concussive-hearing-loss/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2021...ring-loss/</a>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Another copper fouling question!]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=22578</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 27 Dec 2020 20:46:56 -0700</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=128687">High_n_Dry</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=22578</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[There seems to be two schools of thought, either try to keep the barrel clean of copper or let the barrel reach a equilibrium and leave the copper in the barrel.<br />
<br />
I'm more of the 2nd school of thought. In my other guns, I clean. the barrel after a couple hundred rounds with a couple patches with Boretech and then run a bore snake through. Boretech does carbon and copper and I can see plenty of blue after the carbon is out, so I know I'm leaving copper in the bore.<br />
<br />
The reason I built the Grendel is for hunting, but also to try my hand at long range shooting. In this context, I would like to maintain accuracy. I'm leaning towards doing the same regimen as I do for my other rifles. The part I'm a little stuck on is that many people say to leave the copper until you see accuracy problems and then clean out the copper. If you believe in the equilibrium theory, it seems counterintuitive that you would want to get out all the copper out and start at square one again.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[There seems to be two schools of thought, either try to keep the barrel clean of copper or let the barrel reach a equilibrium and leave the copper in the barrel.<br />
<br />
I'm more of the 2nd school of thought. In my other guns, I clean. the barrel after a couple hundred rounds with a couple patches with Boretech and then run a bore snake through. Boretech does carbon and copper and I can see plenty of blue after the carbon is out, so I know I'm leaving copper in the bore.<br />
<br />
The reason I built the Grendel is for hunting, but also to try my hand at long range shooting. In this context, I would like to maintain accuracy. I'm leaning towards doing the same regimen as I do for my other rifles. The part I'm a little stuck on is that many people say to leave the copper until you see accuracy problems and then clean out the copper. If you believe in the equilibrium theory, it seems counterintuitive that you would want to get out all the copper out and start at square one again.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[I am totally confused! Gen1 vs Gen2 ar10 recievers]]></title>
			<link>https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=21925</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 28 Aug 2020 15:47:31 -0600</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://65grendel.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=126393">nekshot</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://65grendel.com/showthread.php?tid=21925</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I cannot even think straight to work on my Grendel because my head is spinning over this Ar10 Gen1 and a Gen 2 receiver. I know this question has nothing to do with the 6.5 Grendel but I am not the sharpest pencil in the pack and this question in web searching is leaving me more confused then before I tried searching for the answer. My medication is not helping matters any.Is the generation1 evil and to be avoided or is the generation 2 the way to happy delights? I get really stupid ideas sometimes and the one that is bugging me is if I think I need more case length to seat long bullets way out the neck with a true case full of powder, why not use a ar10 action? It would be the same as when I was a kid we would swap out the inferior original engine and shove a fire breathing big block into the engine compartment. Sorry, but I need help as I am thinking of launching long torpedo like bullets down the range.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I cannot even think straight to work on my Grendel because my head is spinning over this Ar10 Gen1 and a Gen 2 receiver. I know this question has nothing to do with the 6.5 Grendel but I am not the sharpest pencil in the pack and this question in web searching is leaving me more confused then before I tried searching for the answer. My medication is not helping matters any.Is the generation1 evil and to be avoided or is the generation 2 the way to happy delights? I get really stupid ideas sometimes and the one that is bugging me is if I think I need more case length to seat long bullets way out the neck with a true case full of powder, why not use a ar10 action? It would be the same as when I was a kid we would swap out the inferior original engine and shove a fire breathing big block into the engine compartment. Sorry, but I need help as I am thinking of launching long torpedo like bullets down the range.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>