She needs to go on a diet

[Dmopar74]

I built this poverty pony 6.5, but it's too heavy.
The upper is a bca side charger 20" heavy barrel.
Athlon scope with aero scope mount.
Amazon Chinese bipod.

It's unfired, but I'm wondering if changing just the barrel to something else, maybe a lightweight 18" would work to cut a couple lbs. Or should I sell the upper and buy a whole new one? Also I want to get rid of the flash hider for just a muzzle nut to keep as much aimed away from shooters ears. Obviously I'm a cheap s.o.b. but know I have to pay for a decent lightweight barrel. The primary reason for this build was maybe to shoot some deer but mainly a longer range shtf situation, with that said I want light and "economic"

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AyyZuaGrvAZ2XqAT6
Here's the upper but it's a gen 1 side charger
https://www.bearcreekarsenal.com/6-5-gre...upper.html

[Dmopar74]

Maybe a 18" faxon gunner?
https://www.rainierarms.com/faxon-firear...series-18/

[Zeneffect]

Working out is cheaper.

[Dmopar74]

Working out is cheaper.

Suppose you got real strong jaw muscles.

[grayfox]

How much "too heavy" is this.
What weight are you looking for?
The weight is not just in the barrel, it's in the Athlon and maybe the barrel after that.
Do you know how much the barrel weighs.
Why do you need a side charger.

If it were me, I'd sell that upper and build my own from parts, that way you get the quality you want.
"Inexpensive" is not cheap, you wind up paying for it in lots of untracked ways.

Barrel, trigger, scope/mount -- there's your accuracy.
Low cost but inaccurate = no bargain.

[Dmopar74]

How much "too heavy" is this.
What weight are you looking for?
The weight is not just in the barrel, it's in the Athlon and maybe the barrel after that.
Do you know how much the barrel weighs.
Why do you need a side charger.

If it were me, I'd sell that upper and build my own from parts, that way you get the quality you want.
"Inexpensive" is not cheap, you wind up paying for it in lots of untracked ways.

Barrel, trigger, scope/mount -- there's your accuracy.
Low cost but inaccurate = no bargain.

The barrel weighs 52.6 oz, crazy
The scope with mount weighs 34.85 oz
The handguard weighs 11.75 oz
The complete upper and lower together with barrel nut weighs 62.35 oz

[Dmopar74]

How much "too heavy" is this.
What weight are you looking for?
The weight is not just in the barrel, it's in the Athlon and maybe the barrel after that.
Do you know how much the barrel weighs.
Why do you need a side charger.

If it were me, I'd sell that upper and build my own from parts, that way you get the quality you want.
"Inexpensive" is not cheap, you wind up paying for it in lots of untracked ways.

Barrel, trigger, scope/mount -- there's your accuracy.
Low cost but inaccurate = no bargain.

Barrel 52.65 oz
Handguard 11.8
Scope with mount 34.9
Complete upper and lower with barrel nut 62.35

[Dmopar74]

How much "too heavy" is this.
What weight are you looking for?
The weight is not just in the barrel, it's in the Athlon and maybe the barrel after that.
Do you know how much the barrel weighs.
Why do you need a side charger.

If it were me, I'd sell that upper and build my own from parts, that way you get the quality you want.
"Inexpensive" is not cheap, you wind up paying for it in lots of untracked ways.

Barrel, trigger, scope/mount -- there's your accuracy.
Low cost but inaccurate = no bargain.

Barrel 52.65 oz
Handguard 11.8
Scope with mount 34.9
Complete upper and lower with barrel nut 62.35

I don't need a side charger, it's just that's what I'm used to so I decided to make it the same as my other rifles.

[Dmopar74]

I kinda knew at the time I bought the bca upper I wasn't going to be happy with it and would change the barrel eventually, but it's the money I had then to build a rifle. Do I wish I could of afforded a 5000$ rifle with a $5000 scope? Of course, but here I am

[Klem]

Dm,

The biggest proportion of weight on a gun is its barrel, so biggest weight savings there.

Unfortunately that will cost money. Next will be the scope and mount but you already have a reasonably light scope/mount. So unless you go a red dot (more than half the weight saving of a scope) that's a non starter.

One thing you could do is take that bipod off the gun and put it in a pouch. Even better if you have a quick release clamp for it (I do this). It's just dead weight forward and not all shooting situations need it. It will improve your standing, kneeling, sitting, or using something solid like a tree or building shots. Plenty of other ways to rest a rifle like compact/lightweight bags, or your pack.

[grayfox]

ok.
You don't need $5000...
That barrel does sound heavy.
Athlons, lots of guys are happy with them but they have a rep for being heavy. I'd look at either leupold or even better (IMO) vortex. Depends on the amount of magnification you think you need. Diamondback tactical ones are good glass, economical, good magnif. ranges, and better $$, you don't have to go with the razor-class (again unless you want to of course). Lots of times the cipers are on sale somewhere. Why do 34 oz when 25 will do.
As for barrels, the monsters are good ones, there's also Ballistic advantage or Odin. Faxon's to me are a 50-50. These are all mid-grade barrels, better ones like lilja or higher are more $$ but worth it.
Won't shave much off by changing handguards but you can try it, especially if you go a shorter length of gas/barrel.

Ditch the bipod, go with sandbags or a Caldwell Rock jr for front end support (bench). Bipods don't seem to work all that well unless you're dug into some dirt. Again my $0.02.
If you're hunting you can take along some lightweight shooting sticks or brace up against a tree or rail. I'm usually in a stand so again bipods aren't worth their weight to me.

[MachV]

In the same boat


My plan is to leave this upper as is for prairie dogs but build a different much lighter setup for coyotes and antelope.
A 16" barrel, lighter scope and losing the bipods aught to help?

[Dmopar74]

So the 18" faxon gunner and the 16" BA fluted both weigh 27 oz, which is a huge weight savings. What's the effective range of these barrels?

[VASCAR2]

With 123 grain bullet like ELD-M or SST your looking at 2450-2480 FPS and you need a minimum velocity of 1800 FPS for expansion. That gives you 375-400 yards reliable hunting distance. I’ve shot steel and paper targets out to 800 yards with my 16” 6.5 Grendel at 450’ ASL. My scope was maxed out on elevation and I had to use the mil dot reticle to get enough elevation. I now use a 20 MOA mount so I have enough elevation for where I shoot.


You’ll save yourself some money if you get well defined criteria on how you intend to use your rifle. Hunting less than 350 yards compared to predominantly target shooting out to 1000 yards to PRS or 2 gun match.

Where you live and shoot makes a significant difference. Are you only going to be carrying your rifle from a vehicle to a fixed shooting position in a heavy wooded area. Are you going to hike and stalk in the mountains or shoot in wide open rolling plains at 7000’ ASL. It all makes a difference. A Friend was shooting and hitting steel consistently at 800 meters with a good spotter using a 18” 6.5 Grendel. How many times a year are you actually going to shoot your 6.5 Grendel. Do you reload or depend on factory ammo. All these things affect my decision making.

Using a Hornady ballistic calculator on G1 with 2450 FPS at sea level, scope 2.5” over bore, I got the following info with 100 yard zero. I used 123 grain bullet with G1 BC .510.

400 yards, velocity 1830 FPS, 914 ft lbs energy, 8.8 MOA come up.

600 yards, velocity 1563 FPS, 667 ft lbs energy, 17.7 MOA come up.

800 yards, velocity 1335 FPS, 487 ft lbs energy, 29.1 MOA come up.

1000 yards, velocity 1158 FPS, 366 ft lbs energy, 43.4 MOA come up.


For long range it is better to use G7 but this gives you a general idea. Many scopes have about 70 MOA of elevation adjustment or about 35 MOA up or down. Using a canted 20 MOA mount will give you approximately 55 MOA upward elevation adjustment. Most mounts are the same price whether zero cant or 20 MOA.

[VASCAR2]

Here is a picture of two of my 6.5 Grendel rifles. The left rifle I use as my primary target rifle, 20” Shilen Match barrel, LaRue MBT 2S trigger, Vortex Viper 6.5-20x50 mil dot in a 20 MOA Aadmount. The next is my general purpose/hunting rifle, 18” Monster group buy barrel by Faxon, LaRue MBT 2S trigger, Vortex Diamondback HP 4-16x42 Dead Hold BDC reticle in Warne 20 MOA mount. The scope pictured on the 18” is different as that was a place holder scope till I got a scope I wanted.




Notice how the 18” barrel with A-2 flash hider is basically the same length as my 20” plain muzzle barrel rifle. The rifle you have now might be perfectly adequate or useable but it might not be ideal. I could and have used my 20” Shilen for varmint hunting even though I primarily set it up to shoot paper and steel targets.

[biodsl]

So the 18" faxon gunner and the 16" BA fluted both weigh 27 oz, which is a huge weight savings. What's the effective range of these barrels?

Don't discount the Six Five Outfitters Monster 16" at 29 ounces...and $160. While it's two ounces heavier, the weight is toward the rear around the chamber.

https://www.sixfiveoutfitters.com/product/65g-16/

[EastTNHunter]

I’d see how your BCA shoots first. I got a lemon on my first BCA upper (mine was a traditional rear charger), and it took me months of hounding BCA, but when they made it right they made it right. My ugly 20” stainless is a true 1-1.25moa gun with hand loads and Hornady Black 123 eldms. I too took off the muzzle device and put on a hbar thread protector and I’m quite pleased.

But someday when I have more expendable income I’ll replace the barrel.

Nothing that you do will make it a mountain rifle, but I do like the weight and profile of the Faxon and Monster barrels recommended.