11-30-2015, 05:18 PM
On Saturday at the range, I saw 2 common mechanical problems with AR's that I wanted to give a heads up on:
1. Hammer spring installed upside down, gun didn't work. This showed up first as a walking trigger pin, which told me before I opened the receivers that I was probably going to find an improperly installed hammer spring.
![[Image: 2hd1kqb.jpg]](http://oi43.tinypic.com/2hd1kqb.jpg)
![[Image: Image13.jpg]](http://thearmsguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Image13.jpg)
2. Disconnector not timed, resulting in failure to reset trigger. You can do everything right up until function checking the AR15, which most people blow over in a build, and you think everything is fine.
Sometimes, disconnectors will be long on the engagement with the hammer hook where they catch the hammer. When you release the trigger, it won't reset, because the disconnector is still engaged.
When you assemble the lower, do a function check with the lower receiver group before proceeding. This includes:
1. Place the selector on SAFE, attempt to pull the trigger. The hammer should not fall.
2. Place the selector on SEMI, with your hand over the hammer, pull the trigger. The hammer should release. Continue to hold the trigger to the rear, and push the hammer back. It should catch on the disconnector.
3. Release the trigger. The hammer should reset to the trigger/hammer sear, with a metallic click.
4. You should be able to pull the trigger and release the hammer again.
If the hammer does not reset when you release the trigger, it is often too much disconnector engagement that causes this. You can go through several disconnectors, or stone the disconnector until it works, but this is a delicate procedure best followed by someone highly competent. If the surface is not cut square, you will run into early wear and a gun that malfs or doubles or shoots on auto.
1. Hammer spring installed upside down, gun didn't work. This showed up first as a walking trigger pin, which told me before I opened the receivers that I was probably going to find an improperly installed hammer spring.
![[Image: 2hd1kqb.jpg]](http://oi43.tinypic.com/2hd1kqb.jpg)
![[Image: Image13.jpg]](http://thearmsguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Image13.jpg)
2. Disconnector not timed, resulting in failure to reset trigger. You can do everything right up until function checking the AR15, which most people blow over in a build, and you think everything is fine.
Sometimes, disconnectors will be long on the engagement with the hammer hook where they catch the hammer. When you release the trigger, it won't reset, because the disconnector is still engaged.
When you assemble the lower, do a function check with the lower receiver group before proceeding. This includes:
1. Place the selector on SAFE, attempt to pull the trigger. The hammer should not fall.
2. Place the selector on SEMI, with your hand over the hammer, pull the trigger. The hammer should release. Continue to hold the trigger to the rear, and push the hammer back. It should catch on the disconnector.
3. Release the trigger. The hammer should reset to the trigger/hammer sear, with a metallic click.
4. You should be able to pull the trigger and release the hammer again.
If the hammer does not reset when you release the trigger, it is often too much disconnector engagement that causes this. You can go through several disconnectors, or stone the disconnector until it works, but this is a delicate procedure best followed by someone highly competent. If the surface is not cut square, you will run into early wear and a gun that malfs or doubles or shoots on auto.
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO
CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor
6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:
www.AR15buildbox.com
CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor
6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:
www.AR15buildbox.com

