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I got notification my upper was in the mail the other day. When I got home UPS had come and gone. They were going to come tomorrow but with the weather moving in (snow storm) it looked like it may be a few more days till I would see it. So I went to UPS and waited for the Big Brown Truck to return with my package. It showed up at 7:30 and had my upper.
1 year and 18 days (ordered 1/16/12) I got my 17HMR with a SS Spiral Fluted Barrel. Looks great and my only issue is I can't get the HG off. It's one of the fiber epoxy models. Does anyone know how to take those off? I have a lightweight Keymod HG to put on it and can't get it off.
Snow day tomorrow so want to get it set up and pop off some rounds off the front porch.
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I think there is a thread or comment within an unrelated thread to use kroil penetrating oil, time and a heat gun...you'll have to search
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As I recall:
1) Allow the penetrating oil to work overnight
2) Use a heat gun on it, the next morning. NO OPEN FLAME sources. Hair dryer works, in a pinch.
3) Apply liberal amounts of patience.
4) Remove Hand Guard.
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BjornF16 Wrote:I think there is a thread or comment within an unrelated thread to use kroil penetrating oil, time and a heat gun...you'll have to search
Thanks, just found it. What is kroil? I have all kinds of stuff but what is equivalent? Cutting oil, WD-40 or somethnig I might have in the shop? I guess I'll be goggle-in that too.
thanks though, on the search. Sweet SS Twisted Fluted Barrel with the butt ugly HG.
explorecaves
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NugginFutz Wrote:As I recall:
1) Allow the penetrating oil to work overnight
2) Use a heat gun on it, the next morning. NO OPEN FLAME sources. Hair dryer works, in a pinch.
3) Apply liberal amounts of patience.
4) Remove Hand Guard.
That is for removing a locktited barrel from the receiver. Not the hand guard.
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Tedward Wrote:Thanks, just found it. What is kroil? I have all kinds of stuff but what is equivalent? Cutting oil, WD-40 or somethnig I might have in the shop? I guess I'll be goggle-in that too.
thanks though, on the search. Sweet SS Twisted Fluted Barrel with the butt ugly HG.
You can use almost any penetrating oil, including the stuff you get at an automotive supply store. WD or cutting oil is not the same. "Knock'R'Loose" is an old standby, but I don't know if it's sold under that name, anymore.
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explorecaves Wrote:That is for removing a locktited barrel from the receiver. Not the hand guard.
Well then what to do to get the HG off the Barrel Nut? Sounding like it might just be easier to cut the thing off.
explorecaves
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Tedward Wrote:Well then what to do to get the HG off the Barrel Nut? Sounding like it might just be easier to cut the thing off.
Probably be best to plan to replace the barrel nut anyway.
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Also applies to their glued on hand guards...
Nemo Wrote:I have a stock AA 18". I emailed AA and they told me to heat the hand guard to remove it. I heated it with a propane torch pretty long and still no budge. Can anyone tell me how hot i should do this at or how long? or any other ideas? thanks mike
LRRPF52 Wrote:Bill A. posted how to do it a while back. Basically apply initial heat with a heat gun on low or hair dryer. Use Kroil or some other penetrating agent to get into the threads and let it work into the threads overnight.
Heat it with the heat gun again, without heat-treating the parts, then crank on it with an armorer's wrench. Yes, you need to wait for the oil to penetrate.
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The handguard is the easy part to remove. There is a machine screw at 6 o'clock that tightens a securing block into the holes in the barrel nut inside the handgaurd, which needs to be slightly loosened, but don't remove the screw. Once you do that, the handguard pulls right off as you unscrew the knurled ring.
It would be unwise if you destroy the G10 handguard, as it's one of the better handguards on the market. I personally would leave it alone, but to each his own I guess.
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LRRPF52 Wrote:The handguard is the easy part to remove. There is a machine screw at 6 o'clock that tightens a securing block into the holes in the barrel nut inside the handgaurd, which needs to be slightly loosened, but don't remove the screw. Once you do that, the handguard pulls right off as you unscrew the knurled ring.
It would be unwise if you destroy the G10 handguard, as it's one of the better handguards on the market. I personally would leave it alone, but to each his own I guess.
No set screw seen at 6 o'clock. It might be an ok HG on a black barrel for hunting but for my use, I prefer something more appealing to the eye's.
It's not a set screw, it's a machine screw, button style, like all the other ones on the handguard, if you have a G10 handguard.
If there is no screw at all, then just turn the knurled ring lefty-loosy from the shooter's perspective, and it comes right off.
Edit: No knurled ring on this handguard
Tedward, does your blaster look like this, with this particular handguard?
![[Image: alexander_arms_17_HMR_F.jpg]](http://www.gunsandammo.com/files/2013/11/alexander_arms_17_HMR_F.jpg)
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No, it is solid and doesn't have that ring. Like the one in this picture. My barrel is like that and that is sick looking......Put a Nordic Comp Corvette Comp too
http://www.shopalexanderarms.com/Uppers-...embly.html
http://nordiccomp.com/retail/shop/ar-15-...ess-steel/
Penetrating oil, heat and channel lock pliers....That's how I got mine off. Good luck cause the handguard is on there tight.
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Why did it take a year to get the upper?
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cst Wrote:Why did it take a year to get the upper?
With all the gun crap that went on last year didn't help plus they re-worked the magwell block, extractor and other issues before releasing the New 17HMR. It is fine by me as long as it works great and hopefully orders will go out faster now.
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jmsdad Wrote:Penetrating oil, heat and channel lock pliers....That's how I got mine off. Good luck cause the handguard is on there tight. Going to Ace Hardware and look for the stuff later today.
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Tedward Wrote:Well then what to do to get the HG off the Barrel Nut? Sounding like it might just be easier to cut the thing off.
Since it seems that preserving the condition of the handguard is not a priority, you might consider using a pipe wrench. Position it over the barrel nut, and the handguard and nut will likely turn / come off together. You will be working only against the torque of the barrel nut, and not the strength of the epoxy. Of course, a new barrel nut will be needed, but might be necessary anyway depending upon new handguard design.
Drifter
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