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Newbie Questions
#1
So I have tried to look around before asking these; if there's a specific thread already answering some or all of them feel free to just link it and move on, my mistake.

Q1) Forged vs Billet

Yes, I know this has been driven into the ground, just want some clarification. I've gleaned a few claims from around the interwebz:
  • Billet generally is made to the design specs closer than forged tolerance wise
  • Billet is heavier
  • Forged is theoretically stronger due to the compression forces but unlikely to see a situation in matters enough to break a Billet
  • Aside from looks and possible mating, little to no difference on lower receivers

Is this a good understanding of the situation, and would either have a noticeable difference in firing? I would tend to go billet upper just because I don't feel like maybe having to shave some metal off a forged slightly out of fit/tolerance, even with the pay hike. The problem is finding them in stock. Then, take a name like Rainier Arms, who makes a forged matched set, wouldn't that take away the mating concerns and possibly the tolerance issues while also being in stock (so instant gratification bonus)? Also, would the weight difference actually be noticeable between a forged set and billet set if you were lugging the rifle around hunting?

Q2) 80% forged lowers cost as much or more than 100% forged

Ok so not so much to do with the grendel, but still. Why no DIY discount like virtually everything else? I mean over the summer I built a subwoofer thats 6.5 cu. ft, 500W, & 15" driver, for about $400 using quality parts and wood for the enclosure. If I was to buy one, I'd be spending about $700 to get one with the same level of parts. Same type of deal for the desktop computer I made, except even more so. But this, nothing. I mean I get it's mostly finished but it shouldn't cost just as much. I just don't understand

Q3) Barrel length

Is there honestly any difference between an 18 and 20-24 on the grendel, because I'm not seeing it. Especially for one not so much target punching as animals at 100 yards or intruders in the 3 acre yard. Even 16" ones put up some good results just in round comparisons people have done, but the grendel would be a bit much for a carbine build right?

Q4) Side Charge Uppers

What exactly is the big deal about them? I mean yeah they look sweet, but the only statement I can find in my questing google searches is "they're more tactical". Considering most of us will not be clearing rooms or defending against a zombie horde in downtown ATL, is there something I missed? I realize I may have been too specific in my wording for google to pull a good match, I'm just curious if this is more aesthetic or truly functional
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#2
1. Billet upper if you plan to run a bull or other similar heavy barrel - there will be less flex in the mating of the upper and barrel.
2. http://www.jamesmadisontactical.com
3. 28 inches to 20 inches, average 6fps per inch of barrel loss. 20 inches to 14.5 inches, average 23 fps per inch of barrel loss. Carbine can still reach out to 1k yards, and be an effective hunting platform out to 500+ yards.
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#3
Q1: In general, with 2 bars of metal that are the same dimension, the forged bar will be stronger and more dense than the extruded/billet bar.
For the billet bar to have the same strength, it will have to be bigger. Billet receivers usually have thicker walls than mil spec forgings. That makes them stronger and heavier. If you had a forged receiver made to billet dimensions, it would be stronger and heavier.

Q2: 80% lowers are probably priced the way they are for demand. Consumers may be willing to pay more for a gun without any serial number.
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#4
explorecaves Wrote:1. Billet upper if you plan to run a bull or other similar heavy barrel - there will be less flex in the mating of the upper and barrel.

What about a longer but fluted barrel? Remember, I'm new so I don't know how much weight that would actually save, only that fluting does let you have the advantage of length while trimming some weight off.

explorecaves Wrote:2. http://www.jamesmadisontactical.com

Not really sure I understand what you're getting at. My question was more towards why 80% lowers are more expensive than their 100% counterpart, and you proved my point, albeit with polymer (which I've seen go as low as $49).

dmsims21 Wrote:Q1: In general, with 2 bars of metal that are the same dimension, the forged bar will be stronger and more dense than the extruded/billet bar.
For the billet bar to have the same strength, it will have to be bigger. Billet receivers usually have thicker walls than mil spec forgings. That makes them stronger and heavier. If you had a forged receiver made to billet dimensions, it would be stronger and heavier.

Q2: 80% lowers are probably priced the way they are for demand. Consumers may be willing to pay more for a gun without any serial number.

Ah, so the billet is bigger then. I had wondered why no billet upper is labeled as milspec. Also rules out a billet upper and forged lower unless I want it ugly just to save 50 bucks. True about demand, just didn't think there was so much of it.
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#5
The Vltor MUR is a beefier forged upper. It is non-mil spec, but it matches well with my mil spec upper.
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#6
I have a Grizzly billet side charger upper on a DPMS lower I built. Looks & fits great!
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#7
Bump for new question. Also, thank you everyone for your replies. I'm used to more sarcasm and less help, so it's refreshing Smile
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#8
Side chargers are great for working from a prone or benched position. I'm a lefty so being able to pull the bolt back without breaking my firing grip or position is nice.
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#9
Ok, that makes sense. I'm not really into bench shooting, it doesn't seem that practical to me. But if you're on one, you probably have a scope, and now that I think about it I can definitely see how the traditional charging handle could get in the way or be impeded by a scope or prone position. Which would make me consider one for a hunting rifle, where I might have both situations at once. I couldn't really understand the hype before. Thanks Smile
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