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LPK recommendation
#1
One LPK is as good as another, right?
Or not...?

I'd like to purchase 2 but I see there are several options. Some may have better grips, or better trigger assemblies, or whatever. But, I think the basic parts should be the same.

So, without getting into high end trigger setups at this time, do I need to worry about which LPK I get?
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#2
Maybe this should have been in the build it yourself section.....
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#3
I've got one on order from Mark at Precision Firearms. I've worked with RRA, Spikes, and JP lpks. I'll let you know how it lines up. Right now I'm expecting to beat out those 3.
"Those who sacrifice liberty for security, deserve neither." Benjamin Franklin
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#4
I have ran a bunch of them Spikes, CMMG, DPMS, RRA, DSA, Armalite. I have not really seen much difference in them, they all seem to work fine. I have ran a couple different 2 stage triggers also. The RRA and the Armalite were the better ones, the CMMG was ok.

I got a couple of the CMMG triggers on a great deal, same with the RRA.

I have heard of some problems as of recently with the RRA's. My only complaint with the Armalite was the center hammer pin detent spring fell out. So I had to put some KNS pins on it so the hammer pin would not walk out. Nice trigger other than that. I got the Armalite at dealer cost at the time in a lower with parts kit, and 2 stage for the same price as an average stripped lower so I was not complaining.

Realistically if you are planning on replacing the trigger, I think any of them would work just as fine for you.
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#5
cory Wrote:I've got one on order from Mark at Precision Firearms. I've worked with RRA, Spikes, and JP lpks. I'll let you know how it lines up. Right now I'm expecting to beat out those 3.

What trigger will PF LPK come with? I just pulled my CMMG 2 stage and dropped in the Geissele SD-E. Wow, what a difference, now I understand what they mean by crisp break. I only test fired at the table but will be out testing rounds tomorrow. Suppose to be in the 60's here in VA, I'll take advantage of my AR-Stoner 24" before my Lilja comes in. Then I might retire it or cut it down to 20".
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#6
IDK, I ordered the lpk without a trigger as I'll be using a Geisselle SSA.
"Those who sacrifice liberty for security, deserve neither." Benjamin Franklin
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#7
I like the JP Enterprise LPK minus the trigger and use Geissele SSA, SSA-E, S3G and Super Tricon in all my ARs
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#8
We just had a thread on this not too long ago. None of the companies listed actually make LPK's to the best of my knowledge, since they are out-sourced to MIM shops, spring makers, and pin makers.

Not all LPK's are created equally, and for a true Mil-spec LPK, Colt is one of the only ones I know of that meets the spec in terms of materials sourcing, QC, MPI on some of the parts like the bolt catch, hammers, and triggers, but Mil-spec might not what a lot of us are going for, especially when we want a good trigger.

That said, I would prefer all the other parts to be Mil-spec because I have seen what non Mil-spec does in extreme cold temperatures, mainly the detents corroding because they are supposed to be cadmium-plated, while most of the industry cuts corners with zinc-plating.

A lot of your other parts are not made from the same steels, not phosphated, not MPI'd for cracks and voids inside after being MIM'd, but will still get you by for plinking. Daniel Defense and Spike's seem to use really nice LPK's, as does JP for sure. The DPMS ones are about the cheapest, and the RRA have good parts except for the detents, which are zinc-plated.

If you are going to be shooting high-volume in extreme cold, get Colt detents, high-quality hammers, triggers, disconnectors, etc.
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#9
Thanks for the info, everyone.

LRRPF52, do you happen to know which thread that was? I searched first but, based on the thread titles, wasn't sure if any actually got close to answering my question, so I went ahead and asked.
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#10
I've used a bunch of brands, and the RRA kits always go together much more easily than others. Seems their tolerances are better.
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#11
I personally like a single stage trigger and buy my lpk from Bill http://triggerwork.net/arparts.html
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#12
Spike's Enhanced definitely have Mil-Spec or better parts...I have several and they work well...plus I love the grip (but I am sure that aspect is pretty much entirely a matter of taste).
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#13
Well I cannot comment on extreme cold temps. The lowest temp I have had any of my rifles in was temps dropping to -10 at night, and single digits over the weekend during the day. I can say that my carbine performed great with the RRA LPK and Armalite trigger. That is as extreme of temperatures I go to ha ha!

I can see why good quality parts are critical when getting down into serious negative temperatures (-30 and below). Any flaws in the metal structure would become apparent, as steel can become brittle at that temperature. MPI is certainly a good thing to find micro cracks, and is one of the reasons I will only run bolts that are MPI inspected, HPT, mil spec or better.
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#14
One critical component that gets over-looked in your Lower Parts is the pistol grip. The Mil-spec A2 pistol grips are basically non-existent in the LPK market, but they seem to hold up fine.

The pistol grip is probably the #1 most replaced part on the AR15 and AR10 type rifles, mainly because you can do it so easily and put your mark on the gun, as well as being able to fit it to your hand.

What I found out in extreme cold temps was that not all grips hold up to bitter cold. If you are a hunter, where temps are going to be lower in most of your medium game seasons, especially up North, and even Virginia, you might want to consider a strong, simple, durable pistol grip.

Granted, I was doing high-volume shooting suppressed in -27 F in the Arctic, with a lot of drills where I go from a low ready to up and shooting, and the grip takes a lot of stress, especially with a QD steel construction can on the end of the muzzle. That brings up another point about pistol grip attachment.

A lot of grips on AR15's aren't securely fastened, so just check that your pistol grip screw and lock washer are nice and tight, not strip the threads in your aluminum lower tight, but tight. You can use a small dab of Blue Loc-tite on the screw as well, and many after-market options already come with some dried Blue loc-tite on them.
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#15
stanprophet Wrote:Well I cannot comment on extreme cold temps. The lowest temp I have had any of my rifles in was temps dropping to -10 at night, and single digits over the weekend during the day. I can say that my carbine performed great with the RRA LPK and Armalite trigger. That is as extreme of temperatures I go to ha ha!

I can see why good quality parts are critical when getting down into serious negative temperatures (-30 and below). Any flaws in the metal structure would become apparent, as steel can become brittle at that temperature. MPI is certainly a good thing to find micro cracks, and is one of the reasons I will only run bolts that are MPI inspected, HPT, mil spec or better.

Since you listed your location, Hampton VA, I would like to know if the Salt Water affects your lower parts over time. (Any Salt water or Brackish water locations) Do the detents, springs and pins all look fine after a few years. Not all people take there rifles apart and clean every season but if you wadded thru water, marshy brackish water, and didn't clean it then put the rifle away, you might come across a failure at the wrong time.

So whatever LPK you use, it might be a good idea to periodically pull the entire lower apart and get a good inspection to find those parts that may fail at the wrong time even if your not putting hundreds of rounds thru it. Sitting and little use is sometimes worse than over working something.

As for the pistol screw as LRRPF52 mentioned, I always buy the allen wrench screws for my pistol grips and throw away the screwdriver slotted screw, I buy a box of 25 from McMaster Carr with lock washers rather than Loctite. If you use Loctite (Blue 242), use the correct type. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_b...ue-242.htm
I hate the screwdriver slot and also the allen wrench holds the screw till you get it in lined up in the hole.
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#16
Tedward Wrote:...As for the pistol screw as LRRPF52 mentioned, I always buy the allen wrench screws for my pistol grips and throw away the screwdriver slotted screw, ...
I hate the screwdriver slot and also the allen wrench holds the screw till you get it in lined up in the hole.

+1
"Those who sacrifice liberty for security, deserve neither." Benjamin Franklin
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