Tried out some new loads W/Pics

[gunrestorer]

Tied out some loads in the Grendel this morning. Not the best shooting but fun none the less

[ss355]

Those are certainly respectable groups. The 27.5 grn prohunter load looks promising. What barrel are you running? Thanks for posting pics.

[gunrestorer]

Those are certainly respectable groups. The 27.5 grn prohunter load looks promising. What barrel are you running? Thanks for posting pics.

The barrel is a Broughton custom 5C 1-9 24in. target stainless. I know it will shhoot better if I had a better rest, but I really can't complain. The Sierras seem to shoot the most consistent groups. Although the ballistic tips don't shoot to bad.

[LRRPF52]

Nice groups, especially for hunting pills.

Some target bullets you might want to consider:

123gr SMK's
123gr Lapua Scenars
123gr AMAX
107 SMK's
108 Scenars

Try CFE223 powder as well.

What trigger do you have in her? Do you have a chrono?

[gunrestorer]

Nice groups, especially for hunting pills.

Some target bullets you might want to consider:

123gr SMK's
123gr Lapua Scenars
123gr AMAX
107 SMK's
108 Scenars

Try CFE223 powder as well.

What trigger do you have in her? Do you have a chrono?

I will give some of them a try, standard AR trigger. Will be getting a chrony soon I hope. Have been hearing about the CFE a lot lately am going to see if I can get some next week.

[LRRPF52]

That's impressive with a standard trigger, especially if you haven't done anything to it. If you polish your sear engagement surfaces, and use a reduced power trigger spring and disconnector spring from JP, you cut your pull weight down, and improve the trigger feel tremendously...

or...

Get a JP, Geissele, or one of the other reputable triggers on the market. With that match barrel, a trigger job, and a tuned target load/bullet, I think you could really shrink the groups quite a bit. You must either have excellent trigger control, or a really accurate barrel. Looking forward to how this turns out. If you want to shorten the hammer lock time, here are some links:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7582/...SPRING-KIT

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7585/...GER-SYSTEM

[gunrestorer]

I agree about the trigger I have been thinking of getting a better one, and your right it is a very good barrel. I had one in.257 ACK.bolt gun that would shoot 1/4 in. croups all day long at 100yrds. All the targets I shot with the Grendel were at 115yrds. I'am going to get some target bullets today to see how much differance there is. I'am going to use this rifle for deer this year as well. Everyone thinks its too heavy to lug around at 10lbs. but it is only a pound heavier than my bolt 30-06.

I just checked the pull weight on the trigger and it goes at 4 3/4 pounds every time once the slack is out.

[ricsmall]

you can take about 90% or more of the creep(slack) out with a 1/4x28 x1/2L set screw through the pistol grip screw hole. You may have to tap the hole through to the inside of lower, then take about .020 off the rear of trigger to allow safety to operate. Ive done this on three AR's and have had zero reliability problems. Got the Idea when installing a Jard trigger for someone, as that is how creep is removed on the adjustable Jards. Use blue loctite on threads of set screw and you need a 1"- 1 1/4" pistol grip screw as opposed to the long one. Costs about $2.00. Its def. worth a try.

[LRRPF52]

If you're shooting from a stand or solid support, you'll be good to go. If you set up a quick-adjust sling and use shooting sticks, that will also help with building the position.

I think balance is more important than overall weight, so the majority of your weight is in that match, 24" stainless barrel. I don't know if you're going to shoot off-hand, or from some type of support, but as long as you can hold your margin of error within the range you plan to hunt, and that range is within the expansion threshold/minimum impact speed of the projectile, you'll be good.

You already have more than one suitable load with the 120gr NBT's and Pro-Hunters. Honestly, if you're getting ready for the hunting season this fall/winter, you might just fine-tune these two bullets, while chronographing them. I wouldn't even mess around with any target bullets if your focus is on prepping for the hunt. With 27.5gr of 8208 behind the 120gr NBT, I'm guessing you're between 2470 and 2580fps, somewhere in that ballpark. Either way, you have a about a 360yd effective range on the low end, and at least a 400yd effective range on the high end of those velocities. The BC is so much higher on the Nosler than the Sierra, I wouldn't mess with it either.

If you're shooting the 120gr NBT into .540" at 115yds, you are more than good-to-go for a 400yd shot within a 10" vital zone, I'm sure you know. I would use a 200yd zero, and learn your drop from there, which is this with a 2550 mv:

Code:

.......Range Velocity Energy Trajectory TOF Drift (yards) (fps) (ft-lb) (inches) (sec) (inches) 0 2550 1733 -2.70 0.0000 0.00 60 2434 1579 0.68 0.0722 -0.29 100 2359 1483 1.78 0.1223 -0.83 160 2249 1347 1.53 0.2005 -2.16 [B]200 2177 1262 0.00 0.2547 -3.43[/B] 220 2141 1221 -1.20 0.2825 -4.18 240 2106 1182 -2.70 0.3107 -5.01 [color=blue][U]260 2071 1143 -4.52 0.3395 -5.93[/U][/color] 280 2037 1105 -6.66 0.3687 -6.93 300 2002 1068 -9.13 0.3984 -8.02 320 1969 1032 -11.96 0.4286 -9.19 340 1935 998 -15.14 0.4593 -10.46 360 1902 964 -18.69 0.4906 -11.83 380 1869 931 -22.62 0.5224 -13.29 [color=blue][U]400 1837 899 -26.96 0.5548 -14.85[/U][/color] 420 1805 868 -31.70 0.5878 -16.51 440 1773 838 -36.88 0.6213 -18.27 460 1742 809 -42.49 0.6554 -20.14 480 1711 780 -48.56 0.6902 -22.11 500 1681 753 -55.11 0.7256 -24.20

I underlined your final no-hold or point-blank range for a 10" vital, and underlined your 1800fps/900 ft-lbs impact/expansion threshold as well.

You might play with some different seating depths with these two loads you have, and see what that does if you want to fine-tune the already impressive accuracy, or just load a bunch, and practice your diferent shooting positions on deer targets from 200-400yds. You do have the loads to do it with now.

Only thing I would do to the trigger is polish the sear engagement if you feel comfortable doing it. Just don't take off any material or change the geometry.

I would also double and triple-check the optics mounting solution, to ensure that the base is securely fixed, and rings are loc-tite'd with Blue, at the proper inch-pound torque spec.

For a sling, you can use your existing swivels and attach the webbing adapters for a 2-point, quick-adjust sling. That will give you an option other than drilling and tapping your handguard for a 9 o'clock stud position, and you can tape down the front adapter if it rattles the existing 6 o'clock swivel you have.

What optics and mount do you have on there, and what are your click values on the scope? What type of reticle does it have?

[gunrestorer]

Thanks a bunch for the chart and help, I do use some kind of a rest either shooting sticks or a tree limb ect. in the areas I hunt 200yrds is about as far as one can shoot because of the trees. The scope is a Burris 4.5-14 ballistic plex, I do restoration gunsmithing for a living and (bluing&refinishing on high end shotguns&rifles) With that said I'am not a machinest but I did lightly buff the sear and bearing surface of the trigger and hammer when I installed them, which helped a lot. Thanks again for the info.

I also agree with your thoughts on the Ballistic tip, I had pretty much decided thats the one I will use. Again Thanks.