First can - questions

[Eye_guy]

Thinking of getting my first can. The following are my current rifles that it may be used on:

18” AR 5.56
20” AR 6.5 Grendel
22” AR 10 .308
24” Bolt 6.5 creedmoor

I’m mostly focused on the Grendel and creedmoor as they are used extensively for hunting. The 5.56 sees plenty of range time. The .308 is the least concern, it doesn’t see a ton of use and I’d be ok not putting this cam on it.

Learning towards the Thunderbeast Ultra 7 or 9. Also debating on 6.5 vs .30.

A few questions:

CB version, is there a benefit of going with a brake over a flash hider? As a general rule I hate brakes on any rifle I hunt with (in the event I hunt where I have to go canless). Does the brake under a can do anything for recoil reduction?

Is the weight and length savings on the 7 worth it over the 9?

Is the boost in performance of the 6.5 on my Grendel and creedmoor as well as 5.56 vs the 30 worth it? Also, is there benefit on an AR to allowing some additional gas to escape (30 vs 6.5)?

[Bigs28]

I have the ultra 7 in 6.5. I would call tbac. They will answer all your questions. From what they told me the 30 cal can is quiter at the shooters ear then the 6.5 from an ar platform but i still picked the 6.5 for since i planned on a bolt gun someday.

[mtnlvr]

I went the versatility route and chose the 30 Cal Ultra 7 as I wanted to have the ability to use it on most of my hosts until the day I go more caliber specific. If I had to do it over I'd still do the same. Mine gets used mostly on a 6.5G with a brake which I've pretty much never shot unsuppressed since, nor do I plan to in the future, so the brake is fine. I believe I even read that the brake combined with the can helps reduce sound s little but can't confirm that.

I would think a 9" can on a 22" or 24" rifle is going to feel overly long. When I spoke with TBAC about threading a 24" 270wsm, they really came across like I should cut it down a couple inches for handling. So I'd suggested steering towards the 7".

[bmash]

I have an ultra 7 and 9. 9” is too long and doesn’t help noise that much over the 7. (At least for walking around or in a box stand - it is fine for prairie dogs and open shooting.)
I changed all my barrels to the CB. I had a direct thread come loose at least once. I also changed my old SDN6 to the CB. I can use all of them on all my host rifles as needed now.
And get a 30. It works fine on a 223 or 6.5, and you will probably need it for a 30 cal later. What you need to think about is you should still use hearing protection as it is still loud due to the sonic crack noise - unless you go sub sonic.

[Eye_guy]

Appreciate the responses!

I took the advice and called Thunderbeast. For my application they were recommending the Dominus over the ultra as there would be less back pressure and thus less pop when shooting the AR platform.

So now I’m thinking the 30 cal dominus. Also, they noted there is no recoil reduction under a can with a brake, so I’ll likely go the flash hider route.

Anyone have experience with the dominus?

[Happy2Shoot]

The brake acts as a sacrificial baffle. An open tine flash hider makes the muzzle blast worse on the first baffle or two. If I were you, and I was getting a Titanium baffled can I would get the brake over the flash hider. You should also check out the Dead Air Nomad Ti. I like the keymo QD.

[tibis3383]

Nothing wrong with the TBac cans, in fact they are very high quality and also come at a premium price. I have been a big fan of some of the more recent companies that have popped up like Diligent Defence or Otter Creek. The Diligent Defense cans have the ability to change the endcaps to suit your needs although I would keep .30 cal endcap on if all other hosts would be gas guns. I have also been using the Xeno system for a mount and muzzle device due to the LH thread and lighter/shorter than the keymo.

Not affiliated at all, just received my first from them and am very happy with it. They were also big players in the form 1 game for a time and have always made top notch stuff.

[Eye_guy]

Those certainly seem like intriguing options. The dominus-sr price tag is certainly getting up there.

Can you elaborate on any experience with an AR platform?

[Happy2Shoot]

I have no experience with the dominus, but I have the Sandman-S. All AR15's or semi-auto's in general will be at least 140 dB at the shooters ear. You will need ear plugs no matter what. So, don't sweat a few dB's. Any 30 cal can on a 556 will be at least moderate if not low blow back as far as suppressors go.

[Happy2Shoot]

I got the Sandman S because I have some 8" and 12" AR's. I have a Nomad Ti on hold with the feds because the Sandman is a pig. Go light weight.

[LRRPF52]

18” AR 5.56
20” AR 6.5 Grendel
22” AR 10 .308
24” 6.5 creedmoor

Is the 18” 5.56 MLGS or RLGS?

My favorite can to shoot on the 20” 6.5 Grendel, or to be around the muzzle of a 20” Grendel, was the TBAC Ultra 5 .30 cal.

22” AR-10 would also do well with an Ultra 5 .30 cal.

24” 6.5 Creedmoor will need adjustable gas, assuming it’s running well now.

These are all relatively long barrels, so you have more options in short cans.

I would also look at the Dominus series.

[Eye_guy]

My 18” AR is a RLGS.

Should have specified, but my creedmoor is a bolt gun.

Thanks again for all the replies. Definitely opening my eyes to some additional options.

Upon the advice given and some research, I’m looking for something 7” or less and titanium.

Now just a matter of how much I want to spend. The Dominus SR seems like a great option, just a matter of justifying the higher cost vs the other less expensive options.

Currently looking into a number of other options mentioned here.

[Happy2Shoot]

My 18” AR is a RLGS.



Now just a matter of how much I want to spend.

I say this often.

Either you have the money to spend or you don't. I never try to put other people into a financial hardship.

If you do have it; a suppressor is the thing to splurge on. You will own this the rest of your life.

Take the difference in cost from your low cost item and your high cost item. Now divide that by 10 to twelve months. Doesn't seem like so much now.

That math doesn't mean anything, just sorta makes you fell less bad about spending more.

Also, suppressers aren't magic sticks, but they are nice to use. Once you get used to them you feel like a dang savage not using them.

[LRRPF52]

The TBAC cans were really a product of filling a place in the market that didn’t exist.

Ray and Zak were having problems with their Jet Suppressors, as were many other competitors at long range matches that lasted 2-3 days.

You could start out with a great zero, shoot Day 1 of the match and be in the running for 1st-5th placement, then in order to put the rifle back in the case, you would have to remove the suppressor.

Re-attach for Day 2, and your zero is gone, which could set you back 5-15 places in the running easily.

They said there has to be a way to solve this problem, and thus started ThunderBeast Arms suppressors to conquer the engineering for a return-to-zero can with minimal POA/POA shift.

Their approach to truing the baffles and body is different than the rest of the industry, with unique tooling.

This may or may not matter to you, but you get an idea why their cans do what they do.


Another thing I’ve noticed about them is that they support other suppressor manufacturers and don’t trash talk them, even when given wide berth to do so.

They cater to that portion of the market who wants lightweight, excellent dB reduction, and precision-built and trued cans that don’t ruin repeatability for competitors and other communities who require the same.

You can find some $600 cans if you want to go cheaper, but they won’t be Titanium.


You have to decide what’s the most important feature list for your needs, then that will steer you into the can you want.

For me it went like this:

Weight: I hate heavy cans (or heavy anything) on my muzzle, so I chose the Ultra 5. It doesn’t feel like there’s a suppressor on the muzzle with that can.

Length: I hate really long guns that aren’t maneuverable and portable. This isn’t as big of an issue for competitors at long range matches, is somewhat of a consideration for hunters, and may or may not be for recreational shooting. 6-7” cans are a great middle ground that will provide plenty of noise reduction from 18-24” barrels.

Noise suppression: The whole point of a suppressor is eliminating that muzzle blast of a firearm and reducing the sound signature, so it should achieve the dB reduction you’re looking for. For all supersonic loads, I still shoot with full ear protection because hearing damage will still occur.

Cost: Given that we have to wait for unelected pieces of excrement bureaucrat criminals to approve our transfer of stupid mufflers with no explanation as to why this is even a thing, you aren’t going to see the can for 8-16 months anyway, so I don’t really care about the cost. Make sure to factor in your criminal processing finger print fees, mugshot fees, dealer transfer fees, and ATF illegal $200 (ten months rent in 1934) stamp tax you beg for to exercise your rights to own a gun muffler.

[Bigs28]

For me, the suppressor is theoretically forever so the extra cost over 20 years really means nothing. If i have an issue I'm currently confident tbac will still be in business to help me. Like lrr said i remove my suppressor everytime i get home so maintaining zero when i take it on and off is important to me as well.

[Eye_guy]

Those are all very good points. I had considered POI shift, but hadn’t thought about it being different every time I thread on a can.

Is TBAC leaps and bounds ahead of other mounting options in that regard? I know a lot of the other cans are a more standard 1-3/8”x24 with a multitude of options. Surely one of those mounts is comparable to TBAC in terms of POI shift??? I do plan on swapping cans between guns frequently.

Given the lead times and the number of guns I own that have threaded barrels I’m leaning towards starting with 2 cans.

Can anyone provide feedback on some of the other titanium cans mentioned above? Nomad TI, Enticer s-ti, and the hydrogen s?

I’d imagine any of those will be a huge improvement over unsuppressed, but I am a believer in buy once cry once…

[Klem]

Eye,

Good advice here.

I will add that it pays to do your part if fitting a suppressor. By that i mean that you make sure there is a quality thread on your muzzle, and you are prepared to manage the cycling. Your gas pressures in various parts of the gun are going to change. And by thread I mean that the shoulder needs to be as square to the bore as it can be, to maximise stability of gasses around the exiting bullet. Cheap and cheerful barrels are threaded with the expectation a flash hider or brake is going on them and for that precision does not matter. The longer the suppressor's exit port is from your muzzle's thread shoulder, the more likely being square matters. One way to ensure this is to get the suppressor manufacturer to thread the barrel, or you can ask a gunsmith to check - same principle as why we square the receiver snout to fix any manufacturer errors.

The difference between a flash hider and muzzle break inside a suppressor will not be noticed. A suppressor is probably the most efficient muzzle break available with all the rearward facing surface areas.

You can have the same weight as a titanium can if the manufacturer uses a blend of steel and aluminum. Steel for the first baffle where it's the highest pressure and aluminum for everywhere else. An overbarrel direct thread is another way to cut down the felt weight, by having some of the can back along the barrel so there's less out the front. If you don't have exposed barrel on an AR to spare then it will have to be muzzle-forward, which is more perceived weight and longer gun.

Your can will have to come off as soon as you're finished using it. Those things are moisture traps, All the burnt powder turns into corrosive salts at the worst place it can be - the barrel.

Yes, no suppressor makes a gun hearing safe. They keep the noise down but there are other benefits.

[Happy2Shoot]

POI shift
Can anyone provide feedback on some of the other titanium cans mentioned above? Nomad TI, Enticer s-ti, and the hydrogen s?

I think the Dead Air QD system is great! POI shift is very minimal.

https://deadairsilencers.com/product/micro-brake/



The suppressor can only go on one way, same every time. Never backs off. No threads to gunk up.

Now, they have a small one port brake.

The Nomad Ti meters the same as the Sandman-S I have. I am happy with my Sandman. Looking forward to getting my Nomad Ti for the weight reduction on my non-shorties.

Video shows how the keymo system works.

[video=youtube;k4LrhstYXOk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4LrhstYXOk[/video]

[Eye_guy]

After reading these replies (thanks again to all!), I opted to go with the diligent defense S-TI. After reading the pewscience reports I decided vs the TBAC Dominus I could get two for the price of one so I ordered a pair of them. Now it becomes a waiting game. I’m going to use the Xeno mount due to the weight savings it offers over other options.

In a year or so (with any luck) I’ll report back on how it worked out.

[Happy2Shoot]

After reading these replies (thanks again to all!), I opted to go with the diligent defense S-TI. After reading the pewscience reports I decided vs the TBAC Dominus I could get two for the price of one so I ordered a pair of them. Now it becomes a waiting game. I’m going to use the Xeno mount due to the weight savings it offers over other options.

In a year or so (with any luck) I’ll report back on how it worked out.

Looks like a great choice!