So I got into 6.5 Grendel back in 2019 with the conversion of a Seekins Precision AR using a no label barrel 20" barrel from Classic Firearms. I wasn't sure what to expect but it shot ok with factory ammo. Last summer I decided to try reloading and managed to start getting some sub MOA groups from my bargain barrel using Hornady ELDs and some Speer 90 gr TNT HPs that I picked up. After building some other ARs I decided I wanted to build another 6.5 Grendel in a shorter barrel length to make sort of my take on a light battle rifle. I built the 16" using a Grey Ghost Precision receiver set and a 16" Monster barrel. I'd been meaning to figure out a sort of bulk ammo load using the 20" as a sort of development barrel since it had the optic and a longer barrel that I figured would help me get the best test data with the idea being that whatever load I'd pick would be what I ran in the 16". I finally got around to getting that data and got out the range to shoot the result out of the 16". Needless to say I'm pretty happy with the result. The target pics were what I got using the 16" Monster barrel build equipped with a bipod, rear bag, and a Holosun 510C at 50 yards. For a bulk load I'd say that'll do just fine. I'm sure I'd get even better groups equipping the rifle with a scope compared to the 510C that's on it. The first pic is me zeroing the optic. I'm not sure why the two target pics are sideways.
Well enough I have three of them, ha ha. I know theres better out there but so far for my purposes, which is using them for my .223 Wylde and 6.5 Grendel test mules, as well as a Ruger Precision Rimfire they work just fine and were fairly cheap. I think if I get into PRS at some point I might upgrade to an Atlas or similar but they work fine for now.
Bill2336 Wrote:Well enough I have three of them, ha ha. I know theres better out there but so far for my purposes, which is using them for my .223 Wylde and 6.5 Grendel test mules, as well as a Ruger Precision Rimfire they work just fine and were fairly cheap. I think if I get into PRS at some point I might upgrade to an Atlas or similar but they work fine for now.
I went with the Atlas after years of using Harris Bipods. I now have Picatinny rails on every rifle so I can just move the Atlas from rifle to rifle.
outbreaker Wrote:I went with the Atlas after years of using Harris Bipods. I now have Picatinny rails on every rifle so I can just move the Atlas from rifle to rifle.
I got one of these ARMS adaptors a few years back to put on my 9-13" Harris. It works great. My bipod now locks solidly to any of my ARs. However, these things are very expensive. I would not buy a second one! For this reason. LOL At that point it'd make much more sense to buy an Atlas.
12-24-2021, 05:58 PM (This post was last modified: 12-24-2021, 08:23 PM by SDW.)
Meant to ask, Bill, what handguard is that you have? On the 16". Clamping mechanism looks like a BCM, but the rest of the shape is unfamiliar to me.
BTW, I have that same barrel on one upper. I paired it a Centurion Arms HG and BFG's slim flash suppressor. I haven't tried it with any variety of ammo, but so far I find it a very handy setup, using my 120gr PPU handloads. Pick shows it with a SWFA 2.5-10x scope, which I subsequently returned. Just didn't like it. Right now I swap back and forth between a PA 3x prism and a Redfield Revolution 2-7x scope. I'll have to see which one I like better.
It's a Bootleg Inc rail. I think it's actually made by BCM and uses one of BCM's barrel nut wrenches. I like it but it was a bit of extra work to get it on since it is a thermal fit. I bought the two Grendel ejection port covers probably five or six months ago and until yesterday I'd only installed the one on the 20" Grendel since I just didn't want to deal with having to pull the Bootleg rail. I will say that it's rock solid though so I guess that's the trade off of having to deal with thermal fitting a rail.
Thanks for the info. Nice looking setups. I have a couple of uppers with BCM rails. I kinda got used to working with them. And it gets slightly easier after they go on and come off once or twice as the surfaces get a little burnished. But it is tight no matter what! I learned to heat the HG with a propane/Mapp torch really quickly. That helps it move more easily. Best to leave it on once it's on. LOL
I like the OD color of your longer one too. I was thinking of maybe doing the same with that 16" upper I posted above. I have some "WWII OD Green" Duracoat that's not getting used much. I might apply it to that upper some day. Wouldn't match any of my lowers, but I do have a greenish/sage-ish lower it'd look good on. And a little mismatching doesn't look bad at all to me.
