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newest form 1 can
#1
this thing is a beast here it is with first testing on my 6mm arc
[video=youtube;MtjbdrXO36c]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtjbdrXO36c[/video]
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#2
Very nice Mel, sure is quiet for a full power load, how long is that one 8"? I need to build one but the sourcing of quality parts is where I lack experience.
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#3
Lastrites Wrote:Very nice Mel, sure is quiet for a full power load, how long is that one 8"? I need to build one but the sourcing of quality parts is where I lack experience.
ive got a bit of money in this one

168$ in cups
210 $ in the ti tube ti qd mount / ti endcap and muzzle brake
200 for stamp =

578 + 25 bucks in titanium spacer material

depending on muzzle brake and qd options or going direct thread u could save 50-120$ on the cost

with qd and endcaps it measures just a hair over 8 inch tube itself is 7.8 inch

i can pm ya a parts list if ya need
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#4
Mel if you would share that would be very nice of you, thanks!
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#5
3 each of theese all heat treated
https://www.pureperformancearmory.com/pr...cst=custom
https://www.pureperformancearmory.com/pr...cst=custom
1 of theese @ 7.8
https://sdtacticalarms.com/product/barrel-shroud/

ur choice of muzzle brake i personally love the titan mini's get brake with rear mount ( stay away from the 3 prong flash hider i have one and it rings horribly)
https://sdtacticalarms.com/product-categ...sh-hiders/

and one solid diy endcap
https://sdtacticalarms.com/product/titanium-mounts/

spacer material i sourced locally for some ti tube but my spacing is this
endcap to last baffle is .735 spacer then the 3 shorty cups followed by the 3 std cups , with a 2.5 inch spacer for the blast chamber

i have a 4th shorty cup i may install in place of the endcap spacer and then just cut my spacer down to .235 but as good as it works as is i may just leave it as is , one could actually run 5 shortys and 3 stds with a 2.2 inch blast chamber depending on what u plan on putting the thing on
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#6
cover from
https://sub-tac.com/
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#7
Looks like a fun project! And sounds like you're getting good results. Do you have just straight holes in the baffles or are they keyholed? I imagine the baffles don't clock together? How is your POA/POI repeatibility after disassembling and reassembling the can?
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#8
mtnlvr Wrote:Looks like a fun project! And sounds like you're getting good results. Do you have just straight holes in the baffles or are they keyholed? I imagine the baffles don't clock together? How is your POA/POI repeatibility after disassembling and reassembling the can?

just straight drilled for 30 cal i see no need to clip these cups i did not get a chance to check for poi change or accuracy in the video u see me manually eject a chambered round and it stuck the bullet in the lands no cleaning rod with me that day.
my other can is also stright drilled and i see a lower poi just from the wieght of the supressor on my 20 inch grrendel cause of the wieght of the can but accuracy is on par aswithout the can , onmy28inch gren there is no poi shift since the barrelis a stright .936

without clips there should be no poi shift since theres nothing to align when reassembling though a dhc clipped baffle should be quieter it does require careful alignment to avoid poi shifts , as quiet is this is i dont see myself clipping theese cups , and i know plenty ofppl that are way happy with there cans that arent clipped

edit
i still need to test the can with the frt trigger ,under those conditions the clipping may prove useful, but if it works just as good as is i wont touch it
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#9
Mel your insight is very helpful, thanks and is good timing as I'm in the midst of lining up a form 1.
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#10
I did some testing just by ear with a buddy’s form 1 can with same internals as yours, shot it without clips, then did single scoop clips same as silencerco, then added a flat cut on face of cone and it was noticeably quieter. Seems to me the best for precision shooting is just a single scoop with 1/4” endmill. Of course, testing by ear is purely subjective, we tested on ar host and it probably made more difference at ejection port than muzzle. About all you hear is bullet crack.
Member since 2011, data lost in last hack attack
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#11
Just for anyone who is curious about clips or alignment.

Some tests recently done in the Form 1 community showed a massive gain in performance from clipping. I am a long time tinkerer/builder and recent FFL/SOT and wouldn't let a can out of the door without clipping first. Some of the best performing baffle designs never really got tested without clips in mind due to the fact that they have become a standard. When any videos surface and someone is complaining about can performance the first 100 questions are (you guessed it), " what clips are you running?" I know the original poster is happy with what he has but if you want to pick up some very easy dB gains (or drop), single clip each baffle for a high pressure round.

POI shift does still occur on MOST barrels when attaching a suppressor just due to the change in harmonics. The alignment of the clips is important especially in single clipped configs and my favorite way to achieve this is with super glue gel. Makes assembly very easy and keeps everything aligned and once you heat that can up the glue just burns off so you don't have a mess if you ever have to break it down. Anytime the suppressor is broken down I re-zero just to make sure.

My intention isn't to hijack only to pass along info that is slightly different than stated above. Feel free to holler at me if anyone has any form 1 questions.

Cheers
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