New Bering Optics Super Yoter-R Thermal Weapon Sight

[Double Naught Spy]

I got a chance to try out a new thermal prototype from Bering optics. It is their first 640 resolution dedicated thermal weapon sight and it is pretty darned nice! It is called the Super Yoter-R. My partner, Ben, will be doing a more thorough review of its features and operation in the future, but here are a couple of the first hunts with it. You can get some idea of the clarity, resolution, and potential.

[video=youtube_share;jRhWRrUzzdU]https://youtu.be/jRhWRrUzzdU[/video]

[Double Naught Spy]

If you follow the first link at the very end of the video, and then a link at the end of the next one, the next two vids in the series on on YouTube, just not public, but you can watch them. I have had the scope out 6 times, once as a handheld to learn its operation and 5 hunts. The 2nd video in the series has my partner running the gun. He showcases a lot of the reticles on that hunt, FYI.

With the caveat that this is prototype and features subject to change (but I doubt much will change of the significant aspects), I like the scope.

3x magnification is really in the sweet spot for most hunters as a native power level for night hunting. Personally, I would prefer more, but most of the folks I hunt with would rather 2x or 3x so that they have more field of view, which is valid. Whatever algorithm they use for smooth the image when digitally zoomed seems to work well. White hot, as with other thermals, shows more detail than black hot. There are two other color palettes that I think are rarely useful (rainbow and an alert mode that shows the hottest spots in red) in my opinion, but the options are there.

The scope is lightweight compared to metal bodied scopes like my Trijicon, so that is nice. It has a polymer body like several other brands.

Bering Optics has done VERY WELL with the firmware operating system on this scope. I can't stress that enough. It only has 3 buttons. Once the scope is up and running, one button will zoom the image. The rear and middle button pressed at the same time will NUC the scope (this is semi-auto NUCing that the user does when the user thinks the scope needs to be NUC'd, which is how it should be run for hunting, but you can run it on Automatic and risk having the scope NUC in the middle of a shooting sequence), and the front and middle button pressed at the same time will turn off the display so that you can make stealthy stalks. Another press will turn the display back on. I feel like those are the things you are most likely to be pressing and activating during the critical portions of a hunt.

The middle button (pressed once, alone) brings up the quick menu system that allows for changes in color palette, reticle choices, reticle colors, and image quality. The options are limited and you can click through your choices fairly quickly to make whatever changes you need.

Holding down the middle button for a couple of seconds will bring up the long menu that has your basic settings like whether you want to run semi-auto or auto NUC, Picture in Picture, adjust zero, do pixel repair, etc. etc. etc. (bunch of things).

In short, overall operation of the scope is not difficult at all. It isn't quite as easy as the Trijicon to learn, but easier than what I have seen with the other brands. The buttons and menu stuff is pretty well done in a logic manner (which isn't true for some of the Trijicon, FLIR, Pulsar features) and IS easier to run than my Trijicon or Armasight (FLIR) optics.

The reticles are functional. There are 3 I really like and a couple I don't like at all, and a couple more that are okay. There are 8 in total.

I found zeroing to be really easy. I didn't have any instructions, but have used other thermal scopes, so I could figure out things because I had some idea of how they would work. A person who has never used a thermal would need to read the directions, but someone familiar with electro optics could learn to run just about everything on this scope by simply clicking through the choices and seeing what they do and be functional, gun zero'g, good to go in a couple of hours.

The scope runs on 2 CR123 batteries. When I ran it as a handheld, I got about 3 hours of operation out of the batteries and the scope was still running when I finished with it. That was in summer time (winter run times will be shorter). I don't know if it would have made it 4 or 5 hours, but 3 was no issue. I tend not to leave my scopes on for the entire evening. ALSO, you can power from an external power supply. I ordered a USB C short cable (right angled) and plugged it into a USB phone powerbank that I carry in the saddlebag on the rifle, though there are picatinny mountable versions you can get as well. So I have been hunting with it with an external power supply.

Oh, the mount is supposed to be a quick detach RTZ type of mount. I don't think they have figured out which one they are running with yet on that.

Warranty is 4 years, which is good.

My major dislike of the optic is that the onboard recording does not do audio. Most folks don't record with thermal even if they have the capability, but for me, it is important.

[tdbru]

DNS,
so is this the next best (that we can actually buy) night hunting optic? Are there better ones?

have you adjusting the POI L/R/U/D and did the adjustments return to original POI? are the adjustments repeatable or do you have to re-zero all the time?

Thanks for the write up and vid again!
-tdbru

[Double Naught Spy]

"Best" is way too subjective. Best for what? Not being pedantic, but want, need, cost, value, capabilities, etc. all determine what is best. This seems to be a very good value for the money (if it comes out at the expected price) given its capabilities. There are scopes with more magnification that might be better more longer distances. There are cheaper scopes with much less magnification and image quality that are perfectly good for shooting critters in the barnyard for which you would not want to spend this kind of money. There are scopes with comparable levels of image that cost much more money. Then there are the features offered on all the different models that add or may add value to the scope's utility.

I don't know that this is best, but I will be asking to be on the list to get one when they come out.

Rezero all the time? Not sure what you mean.

[Rufjustis]

Great video. A lot cheaper than my Trijicon and from what I could tell the image is just as good. One thing I liked is when you NUC it you don't have to close the cover like on my Trijicon IR-Hunter Mk-III, 60mm. I noticed your brass catcher, what brand is it? I have a Caldwell on mine and because of the limited clearance between the scope and the picatinny rail I have to leave it on. I can't take it off for cleaning, etc. Do you have that problem with yours?

[Rufjustis]

Great video. A lot cheaper than my Trijicon and from what I could tell the image is just as good. One thing I liked is when you NUC it you don't have to close the cover like on my Trijicon IR-Hunter Mk-III, 60mm. I noticed your brass catcher, what brand is it? I have a Caldwell on mine and because of the limited clearance between the scope and the picatinny rail I have to leave it on. I can't take it off for cleaning, etc. Do you have that problem with yours? I've looked for others that would work but haven't found any.

[lazyengineer]

Thanks for this. Boris is an awesome dude.

[Double Naught Spy]

Great video. A lot cheaper than my Trijicon and from what I could tell the image is just as good. One thing I liked is when you NUC it you don't have to close the cover like on my Trijicon IR-Hunter Mk-III, 60mm. I noticed your brass catcher, what brand is it? I have a Caldwell on mine and because of the limited clearance between the scope and the picatinny rail I have to leave it on. I can't take it off for cleaning, etc. Do you have that problem with yours? I've looked for others that would work but haven't found any.

The manual NUC of the BAE/Trijicon setups is something that fans would say is no problem and realistic users will note is a pain in the butt. It is the difference between 5-8 seconds (depending on your finger skills/capabilities) and 1-2 seconds with a semi-auto version such as the Super Yoter.

I am using a brass catcher from Tactical Brass Recovery. It goes on and comes off easily. I also have the model where the catcher swings out if you need access to the chamber in the field. They are pricey, but work really well. The company is veteran owned and operated, FYI. http://www.tacticalbrassrecovery.com

[Double Naught Spy]

Thanks for this. Boris is an awesome dude.

Boris is good guy. He is really trying to work in the right direction and solicits input from actual users and incorporates the input in the units. I think that is what makes the setup on this model fairly well refined.

[Double Naught Spy]

Next hunt with the Super Yoter-R

[video=youtube_share;qFRSuo9eVmU]https://youtu.be/qFRSuo9eVmU[/video]

[tdbru]

DNS,
having never had a thermal sight, do they come with "normal" elevation and windage knobs? if so, how well does the Super-Y perform on adjustment repeatability, if you know? The "day" scopes i use track very repeatably. I was wondering if these thermal scope do as well, of if they operate in a different manner (all electronics?) and what is done for field adjustment, if anything, to compensate for range and wind.
looks like you and Ben had a very fun night out relieving landowner of the pest hogs.
regards,
-tdbru

[Double Naught Spy]

tdbru, I don't know anybody who has examined this issue with electro-optics. Given that the adjustments are electronic, they are the same every time. I have seen where the windage is slightly different than the elevation before and that is the only inconsistent aspect I have seen.

The increments of adjustment aren't always what you would expect, either. I have never seen them in mils or MOA. They are just some present amount. I don't know if it is this way on the SY or not, but on the Trijicon, the amount of change varies with the level of magnification, which is really cool, but sometimes frustrating, where native magnification has the largest adjustments, 2x is half the distance, 4x half of that, etc. The SY has a one shot zeroing system where you fire at your target, note the POI, and keeping the same POA (and where is a dot in the zeroing setup that holds the original zero point), you move the crosshairs to the point of impact and save the setting and you have basically gotten zeroed.

Quite simply put, most people do not make field adjustments on their thermals. A survey done years ago on Texas Hunting forum found that something like 90-95% of hunters typically only shoot within 100 yards. 97% (or 98%?) within 200 yards. While some did have longer maximum distance shots, such shots were the very rare exception for the vast majority of hunters.

This is particularly true for thermal hunters. Why is that? Lots of reasons. I have heard a lot of people say it isn't safe to shoot over 100 yards at night. I have never understood this sentiment on why 100 yards was a magic stopping point, but there are folks that definitely feel that they need to limit their shooting. Due to resolution, the farther your target, the fewer pixels that will make up your target and hence the greater the difficulty in making proper identifications and aiming precisely. Conditions at night (when most folks use thermal) are less optimal more often than you would expect with day hunting. At night, humidity goes up (degrading thermal conditions) and there is a greater chance for fog as well. While thermal does see through fog better than day optics, fog is still a limiting hindrance. Also, in most cases, getting to the menu setting on electro-optics to make zero adjustments is a pain in the butt in terms of the number of steps and time that it takes.

When folks compensate for distance and wind on the rare occasions that they do, it is usually Kentuckian.

I believe ATN has a LRF scope that will use a ranged distance and move the crosshair accordingly based on dope input for your ballistic data. I don't know much more about it than that or how good it is.

[Double Naught Spy]

Here is number 3 in the series...

[video=youtube_share;2nw2u_1JrvU]https://youtu.be/2nw2u_1JrvU[/video]

[v1911]

After doing a lot of research, I pulled the trigger on this unit. For the price and features, it offered a terrific value for me.
Looking forward to bagging some pigs with this bad boy. Thanks for the videos and write ups!

[Double Naught Spy]

Cool, let us know how it works out for you!

[v1911]

Haven’t had the chance to use it on pigs or coyotes yet. Been playing with the features and sighted it in last week.
Super simple to sight in. Getting used to the 3 button setup. But the menu is easy to navigate and I’m really impressed with the picture quality!
My buddy that owns a Trijicon Reaper was impressed with the picture quality and how light it was in comparison.
Once I get my SBR stamp, it’s going on my 12.5” Grendel build. Which will also be receiving a TBAC Ultra 7.

[Double Naught Spy]

Super simple to sight in. Getting used to the 3 button setup. But the menu is easy to navigate and I’m really impressed with the picture quality!
My buddy that owns a Trijicon Reaper was impressed with the picture quality and how light it was in comparison.

Yeah, I think they did an excellent job on the controls and menu system. It is one of the best scopes ergonomically in this regard that I have tried. Pretty much everything just makes sense. Like your buddy, I am also a Trijicon owner. Trijicon had what was the most easy to use menu system for years, but it has/had some oddball aspects that while easy to use, are not ergonomically pleasing.

The picture quality is impressive for a couple of reasons, most notably, the greater thermal sensitivity. The Yoter is able to distinguish between finer levels of thermal difference than the Trijicon which makes the Yoter more useful in adverse atmospheric conditions, such as overcast rainy days (like what we are having right now in Texas). Being able to deal with finer levels of thermal differences means suffering less from thermal crossover conditions. Thermal crossover occurs when most everything in your image blends together (gray out) because most everything is approximately the same temperature. For example, we have had freezing temps for days with overcast skies and occasional rain/sleet/snow/freezing rain/freezing mist and my hunt last night mostly mean seeing animals standing out against a nearly uniform gray background despite there being terrain, grass, trees, fences, etc. that my Trij. would normally pick out had there been more radiant heating by the sun. That isn't to say the Yoter won't suffer from this, but that it is less apt to be plagued by it because it can detect thermal differences better.

I think you will enjoy the Yoter!