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Okay Guys,
I have had my Grendel for several years now and have never fired it!!! It is now in a total dismantled state for a re-build( much better barrel, longer gas system, longer hand guard, adj. gas block.). However, I did put my .22lr upper on my lower and fired that a few times trying to sight it in with irons. Here is the question, with the 22lr I did hear that SPROING sound a little and am wondering if it will get worse with the Grendel? I is a little annoying to say the least( I guess you get used to it in time), as this is the only time in my life to have to shoot an AR. What have y'all done to quiet or eliminate that terrible sound?
Thanks
Redraider
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You can put a few dabs of wheel bearing grease on the spring and then shoot it. The spring going back and forth will distribute it throughout the tube and it will cut down on the sproing sound. The drawback to doing it is the back end of the BCG also gets some of it and it looks nasty when you take it out to clean. But the sproing is gone.
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JP Enterprises Silent Capture Spring. Its impact on your wallet will determine just how annoying you think that sproing really is!
Let's go Brandon!
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There is also a centerless ground spring ~20-30 bucks iirc - nice and silvery and round vs flat wire - that does a good job of eliminating that sproing. This is what I use almost exclusively.
"Down the floor, out the door, Go Brandon Go!!!!!"
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Grease or JP, I have used/done both and the noise reduction is the same with either approach.
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I like the noise. It let's me know when to change the mag.
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That "sproing" is your AR15 telling you it's happy. To keep it happy, don't neglect it or let it sit unused for years at a time. Take it out regularly, and you'll learn to appreciate the "sproing".
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I second greasing the spring. It has removed the sproing noise in all my ARs.
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Redraider Wrote:Okay Guys,
What have y'all done to quiet or eliminate that terrible sound?
Red,
Absolutely nothing.
I find the 170db of muzzle blast going off at the same time much more 'terrible'. It is a non-issue.
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Thank you to all that responded, I now have some things to try. As much as I like the idea of the captured spring, I doubt that it is in my future.
Thanks again
Redraider
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Another option is the Geissele Super 42 braided wire spring. Its quiet and reliable, and just a bit stiffer than standard. Only downside is the (carbine spring) inside diameter is slightly smaller so you have to use their carbine buffer (sold as a set). With the rifle spring and buffer, its fully standard with no such limitation.
This spring strips lacquered Wolf out of brand new eLander 17rd mags without issue, so there is that too.
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I have been happy with the Armaspec Stealth Recoil Springs (same idea as JP, way less money). I am running H2 in my grendels. H in 223 and a bigbore in a SOCOM.
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AlaskaGrendel Wrote:I have been happy with the Armaspec Stealth Recoil Springs (same idea as JP, way less money). I am running H2 in my grendels. H in 223 and a bigbore in a SOCOM.
Hadn't heard of these before but finding one for $57+ shipping seems like a good deal
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AlaskaGrendel Wrote:I have been happy with the Armaspec Stealth Recoil Springs (same idea as JP, way less money). I am running H2 in my grendels. H in 223 and a bigbore in a SOCOM.
Armaspec has spacers for A1 & A2 length stocks which I have on both my Grendel & 6mm ARC rifles. Which weight option should I use for those two rifles... C, H, H2 or H3?
I refuse to be victimized by notions of virtuous behavior.
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Old Bob Wrote:Armaspec has spacers for A1 & A2 length stocks which I have on both my Grendel & 6mm ARC rifles. Which weight option should I use for those two rifles... C, H, H2 or H3?
I have the spacer as well. I found it to be ever so slightly longer than it needed to be (in an ACE Skeleton stock) which impeded bolt locking back. Quick diagnosis and quick fix...grabbed a piece of sandpaper and ground down one end a bit. Just shorten it up until you have your desired clearance should you run into the problem. As for what weight... That's up to you. H is the same as your standard ar-15 buffer. H2 heavier, H3 heavier again. I know nothing of 6mm ARC so I got nothin' on that one. With 2 mid-length gas systems, I have used H and H2 with factory and my reloads. Both worked just fine. I prefer the H2. Feels like it cycles more crisp, maybe faster, and definitely changes the recoil impulse. No traditional buffer spring noise.
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AlaskaGrendel Wrote:I have the spacer as well. I found it to be ever so slightly longer than it needed to be (in an ACE Skeleton stock) which impeded bolt locking back. Quick diagnosis and quick fix...grabbed a piece of sandpaper and ground down one end a bit. Just shorten it up until you have your desired clearance should you run into the problem. As for what weight... That's up to you. H is the same as your standard ar-15 buffer. H2 heavier, H3 heavier again. I know nothing of 6mm ARC so I got nothin' on that one. With 2 mid-length gas systems, I have used H and H2 with factory and my reloads. Both worked just fine. I prefer the H2. Feels like it cycles more crisp, maybe faster, and definitely changes the recoil impulse. No traditional buffer spring noise.
What I was thinking: Get the H3 SRS & also buy their H & H2 replacement weights. I could switch weights around to see which works best without having to buy 3 different SRS units. Is the spacer polymer or aluminum?
I refuse to be victimized by notions of virtuous behavior.
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its polymer. Like that cutting board material - HDPE?
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PVBoom Wrote:Midway has a anti sproing part.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/100331901?pid=154800
This review of that product is interesting.
[INDENT]Great SPACER, not noise reducer
Whether this product reduces the "twang" noise or not, I have only ever bought these as a spacer to reduce the travel of the bolt carrier in the buffer tube. For proper ejection of spent shell casings, the front of the bolt face should rest about a 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch forward of the rear of the ejection port when the bolt/carrier is fully to the rear of the receiver. This ensures that the shells won't "stovepipe" jam by allowing them to properly strike the shell deflector when exiting the rifle. Proper spacing is evident when you can see strike marks on the upper part of the shell deflectlor. Improper spacing is evident when you can see shell ejection marks on the lower part of the shell deflector closest to the ejection port. The proper way to achieve this spacing of the bolt face to the ejection port, is to screw the buffer tube far enough into the receiver when first assembling the rifle. Some buffer tubes have extra material that will need to be filed or ground off to allow the buffer retaining pin to engage. Those of you who's bolt face/ejection port spacing is off, who either don't want to deal with disassembling your rifle, or for some reason can't disassemble your rifle, this spacer will work for you. A word of caution - To those who's bolt face/ejection port spacing is correct (particularly rifle-length buffer tubes and stocks tend not to have spacing issues), this spacer may not allow the bolt catch to engage on the last round. Check your spacing before you buy - if the bolt face travels past the rear of the ejection port when the charging handle is pulled fully to the rear, then you would probably benifit from this product. If you can see the front of the bolt just slightly forward of the rear of the ejection port when the charging handle is fully pulled back, then steer clear of this product. And this product is actually black in color, not white, like the picture[/INDENT]
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