CZ 527 6.5 Grendel Feed Problems

[redbeard]

Hi folks. I'm a long time Grendel AR shooter but a new forum member. During the fall of 20, I purchased by first bolt action, a CZ 527 MTR. I generally single load from a bench. Shot Hornady 123 AMAX 1/2 MOA or better during break in. After a bit, the bolt failed to close. Sent it back to CZ. They said that single loading, which it wasn't designed for, bent the extractor. Great!! When I got it back, I tried loading from the magazine. I couldn't close the bolt with 5 rounds in the magazine. With 1 or 2 rounds in the magazine, they loaded but was way too hard. I finally discovered the problem after seeing a pile of copper particles between the front of the feed ramp and the chamber. The poorly designed/executed feed ramp had a sharp edge that shaved copper from the bullets. Between the sharp edge and the spring pressure with 5 rounds, still couldn't close the bolt without huge effort. Got a little better with fewer rounds providing less spring pressure. My solution was to use some sear stones and tiny files to round off the sharp edge. CZ should correct the problem. Anyway, I purchased a sled and went back to single loading as approved by CZ.

I should note that I also have the 527 Varmint. Same problem but a little less so.

[tdbru]

redbeard,
i don't think there's a mini action 6.5 Grendel without issues as comes from the factory. they are all deficient in some way or another. i went the mini howa route for my mini bolt because i thought the steel parts were done the best from a design point of view. Howa's mini stock, bottom metal, and magazine setup were a huge disappointment to me, though. but i understand it was done to a price point. i ended up going with a B&C sporter and Jefferson Outdoors flush bottom metal and am quite happy with the rig now. point is that all of us, with any of the selections we pick, have had to tweak/fix/upgrade/modify what we got out of the box to get it to function the way we expect. each action and choice comes with a known set of issues. you just have to decide which dragon you wish to fight and go for it. you're doing the right thing, in my mind, to just fix what you can to get the functionality you want or expect.
-tdbru

[A5BLASTER]

Hi folks. I'm a long time Grendel AR shooter but a new forum member. During the fall of 20, I purchased by first bolt action, a CZ 527 MTR. I generally single load from a bench. Shot Hornady 123 AMAX 1/2 MOA or better during break in. After a bit, the bolt failed to close. Sent it back to CZ. They said that single loading, which it wasn't designed for, bent the extractor. Great!! When I got it back, I tried loading from the magazine. I couldn't close the bolt with 5 rounds in the magazine. With 1 or 2 rounds in the magazine, they loaded but was way too hard. I finally discovered the problem after seeing a pile of copper particles between the front of the feed ramp and the chamber. The poorly designed/executed feed ramp had a sharp edge that shaved copper from the bullets. Between the sharp edge and the spring pressure with 5 rounds, still couldn't close the bolt without huge effort. Got a little better with fewer rounds providing less spring pressure. My solution was to use some sear stones and tiny files to round off the sharp edge. CZ should correct the problem. Anyway, I purchased a sled and went back to single loading as approved by CZ.

I should note that I also have the 527 Varmint. Same problem but a little less so.

Strange my CZ varmint grendel doesn't have these issues.

Mag springs were stiff at first and gave feeding issues with 5 rounds in the mag but since they broke in, I haven't had anymore issues.

[D.Davis]

Red, Some CZ 527 are smooth as silk, some are not. Mine is not, but, it is very accurate. Dave.

[Rosecrans1]

Just to cover all the bases and I'm sure you know this but.........load up your magazine(s) all the way and let them sit for about two weeks or more. This is advisable for all mags in all guns to set the spring tension down from being new. It may help. As said above, it seems that the bolt gun offerings do have some issues. Some more than others. (The RAP for instance).
Another thing to check is the torque settings on the action screws. My experience is not with the Howa or the CZ but with the Rugers. On the RAP, the action screws can be too loose or too tight. (This and too much spring tension on the magazine tend to make the Ruger either a tight action or a complete non-worker). The CZ 527 torque settings per the internet, (which never lies), is 35 - 40 in/lbs.

[zero G]

A friend just purchased a CZ 527.
The bolt is really sticky, does not want to cycle.
He tried running the bolt (empty) hundreds of times to try to work it in and get it to cycle, even put some lapping compound on the bolt.
No joy.
If you push the bolt in directly from the rear using thumb or finger it will easily chamber a round.
Using the bolt handle, not so much.
Anyone know a fix?

[A5BLASTER]

A friend just purchased a CZ 527.
The bolt is really sticky, does not want to cycle.
He tried running the bolt (empty) hundreds of times to try to work it in and get it to cycle, even put some lapping compound on the bolt.
No joy.
If you push the bolt in directly from the rear using thumb or finger it will easily chamber a round.
Using the bolt handle, not so much.
Anyone know a fix?

Run it fast and hard.

[Harpoon1]

A friend just purchased a CZ 527.
The bolt is really sticky, does not want to cycle.
He tried running the bolt (empty) hundreds of times to try to work it in and get it to cycle, even put some lapping compound on the bolt.
No joy.
If you push the bolt in directly from the rear using thumb or finger it will easily chamber a round.
Using the bolt handle, not so much.
Anyone know a fix?

Take the claw extractor off and GENTLY bend it lengthwise, putting SLIGHTLY more “bow” in it.

https://youtu.be/1pmu-51tLPU

Some cycle better than others, this will help some more than others but, it won’t cure all of them.

While mine isn’t bad, I’ve trained myself to just use the “thumb behind the bolt” technique on ALL bolt action rifles. Thats helped all of them feed better.

[zero G]

Run it fast and hard.

LOL
Learned to shoot on a Savage-Anschutz Model 141 .22 cal. in the late 60's. Wish I still had that gun, extremely accurate and looked great.
Can still hear my Dad saying "Run the damn bolt like you mean business."

[zero G]

Take the claw extractor off and GENTLY bend it lengthwise, putting SLIGHTLY more “bow” in it.

https://youtu.be/1pmu-51tLPU

Some cycle better than others, this will help some more than others but, it won’t cure all of them.

While mine isn’t bad, I’ve trained myself to just use the “thumb behind the bolt” technique on ALL bolt action rifles. Thats helped all of them feed better.

Thanks Harpoon 1!
Makes sense to me.
I just sent that link to my friend.
He's been really PO'd and frustrated with his 527. He's ready to send it back to CZ.
It's his first venture into the Grendel and I encouraged him to try one partly because I'm waiting, and waiting, and waiting...
for a complete Grendel upper I ordered from Precision Firearms in February.
We thought we'd have a bolt vs gas gun shootout and I'd like to win for a change. lol

The "thumb behind the bolt" technique sounds reasonable.
The bolt bind on this particular rifle is so bad it often takes a "thumb only" technique. Almost no hand pressure on the bolt handle.
I'll let you know how that slight bow in the claw extractor works out . Sure hopes it helps him!

[A5BLASTER]

LOL
Learned to shoot on a Savage-Anschutz Model 141 .22 cal. in the late 60's. Wish I still had that gun, extremely accurate and looked great.
Can still hear my Dad saying "Run the damn bolt like you mean business."

Try adjusting your action screw torque. Start at 30 inch pounds and increase by 5 inch pounds after you try feeding.

When I got mine, it was in the wood stock and the action screws were at 65 inch pounds, it feed like crap.

Put it in the bell and carlson stock and tryed diffrent torque settings and found 35 inch pounds is where it feeds best.

If I put 5 in the mag the first round has to be run hard and fast, the rest are easier to run.

[Rosecrans1]

What Blaster says^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^and use loctite on the threads.

[zero G]

Try adjusting your action screw torque. Start at 30 inch pounds and increase by 5 inch pounds after you try feeding.

When I got mine, it was in the wood stock and the action screws were at 65 inch pounds, it feed like crap.

Put it in the bell and carlson stock and tryed diffrent torque settings and found 35 inch pounds is where it feeds best.

If I put 5 in the mag the first round has to be run hard and fast, the rest are easier to run.

Thanks A5!

[PA452]

I have a 527 6.5G Suppressor Ready model. I've had cycling issues on I think round 4 of I remember correctly. Mag fully loaded, chambers the first round no issue. Next round, doesn't want to cycle. All rounds after that, smooth as butter. I'll try some of the suggestions in this thread.

To the OP, yeah, definitely don't want to regularly single load rounds and try to snap the extractor over the rim by pushing forward on a Mauser action. I believe on a full size Mauser action you should be able to do that by pressing on the side of the extractor as you load, essentially springing the claw outward. But not only is that kind of a pain to do, but I've never had good look doing that on any of my CZ rifles, and I've had a lot of them.