Hornady brass reload life

[JCSC]

How many firings are folks getting from hornady brass? I have some at 6-7 that still look pretty good. The primers may be getting a bit looser, but nothing real drastic.

[RMiller]

I have two I reloaded 19 times. I was going to find them and go for 20.

[A5BLASTER]

Mine average 8 fireings. I anneal every forth firing. Some go a bit more, some sooner but it averages out too 8 fireings.

[JCSC]

Ok. 19 wow.

I started annealing by homemade method. The only brass I have discarded started to get a faint ring around the base, where the die stops. I have found 3-4 like that and pitched them.

[A5BLASTER]

Ok. 19 wow.

I started annealing by homemade method. The only brass I have discarded started to get a faint ring around the base, where the die stops. I have found 3-4 like that and pitched them.

If the primer pocket isn't dropping primers and the neck isn't splitting. It's still safe to run.

That line is where the thickest part of the case stops and the thin case wall starts. It's kind of normal.

[Klem]

JCSC,

If primer pocket slackness is the concern and the rest of the case looks OK then you can extend the case life by splaying the pocket back into being tight.

I've been using an RCBS military crimp remover called a Primer Pocket Swager
https://shootersdelight.com.au/product/r...r-combo-2/

You put the case which has a small-rifle primer hole on the large-rifle primer spud and give it a couple of stout presses on the handle. The large-rifle spud doesn't go into the hole but it puts pressure on the brass surrounding the hole which takes the path of least resistance back into the void. You quickly figure out how much tension is enough. It's definitely not what the tool was designed to do but I already had it for the occasional removal of military crimps so it's now the gift that keeps on giving.

I seat primers and if they go in too loose they get a marker pen line over the primer. After firing I can locate them. Remove the primer and give them the squash treatment - Bob's your uncle! Back to normal seating tension.

I have also seen online posts where guys have had some success using a ball bearing and punch/hammer. There's a recent thread here discussing this.

[1Shot]

I have had a few that the neck has split around 4 firings and then I have some that I have lost count on how many times they have been used. At least 8 or 9 times. I do not anneal either.

Klem thank you for this tip on fixing primer pockets. I have one of these RCBS primer pocket swage kits that I use all the time. I just used it on a 50 cal ammo can full of 223 cases that had crimped in primers. Bought the set a looooog time ago before I ever got a 223 for usage with 30-06 military brass from surplus ammo that was plentiful back then that I burned up in M1 Garand's. I just found a box and a half of 30-06 ammo while cleaning up my loading room that used these cases that I had loaded up for a bolt action Rem. Sportsman 78 (poor man's Rem. 700) in 30-06. I used that action to build my super accurate 25-06 about 30 years ago. My how time flies.

[FLshooter]

JCSC,

If primer pocket slackness is the concern and the rest of the case looks OK then you can extend the case life by splaying the pocket back into being tight.

I've been using an RCBS military crimp remover called a Primer Pocket Swager
https://shootersdelight.com.au/product/r...r-combo-2/

You put the case which has a small-rifle primer hole on the large-rifle primer spud and give it a couple of stout presses on the handle. The large-rifle spud doesn't go into the hole but it puts pressure on the brass surrounding the hole which takes the path of least resistance back into the void. You quickly figure out how much tension is enough. It's definitely not what the tool was designed to do but I already had it for the occasional removal of military crimps so it's now the gift that keeps on giving.

I seat primers and if they go in too loose they get a marker pen line over the primer. After firing I can locate them. Remove the primer and give them the squash treatment - Bob's your uncle! Back to normal seating tension.

I have also seen online posts where guys have had some success using a ball bearing and punch/hammer. There's a recent thread here discussing this.

My 224 Valkyrie brass after four or five reloads, the primers would fall out. Haven’t had that problem with the 6.5 Grendel.Maybe it’s because I don’t load hot. With 6.5 Grendel I was getting 6 reloads.I believe I’ll be getting close to 10 now that I got an Annealeez machine.
Anyway, back to loose primer pockets. Used to use the RCBS swager Klem posted the link to.Now I use a Dillon 600 super swage. It would be cool if I can fix loose primer pockets with that. I guess I’m going to give it a try next time I have a loose primer pocket.

[Klem]

My 224 Valkyrie brass after four or five reloads, the primers would fall out. Haven’t had that problem with the 6.5 Grendel.Maybe it’s because I don’t load hot. With 6.5 Grendel I was getting 6 reloads.I believe I’ll be getting close to 10 now that I got an Annealeez machine.
Anyway, back to loose primer pockets. Used to use the RCBS swager Klem posted the link to.Now I use a Dillon 600 super swage. It would be cool if I can fix loose primer pockets with that. I guess I’m going to give it a try next time I have a loose primer pocket.

FL,

To be clear, I have never had a loose pocket with Grendel either, but the 6.5*47 needs the treatment all the time. Both calibres have small primer holes so no doubt it works on Grendel too.

Wouldn't it be good if a manufacturer ran some tests and designed a dedicated primer pocket tightening tool. There is a market for it.

[Rosecrans1]

6+ on Hornadays and a few are easy to seat primers in. No other issues observed but I also don't run mine very hot with the exception of load development where a few see hotter loads.
If you have several Grendels, keep what is fired from them separate.

[JCSC]

I have the RCBS sewage tool. It’s a PITA. It sticks in nearly every 556 case and I have to slam it in reverse until they release. I switched back to cutting them out.

It may be a good tool for tightening up old primer pockets.

[Bronsonburner]

I've got some with six-seven firings on them that are probably near end of life. Primers seat very easily but aren't falling out yet. Might ge one more on them then toss. Once I wear this batch out I'm going Lapua.

[Klem]

JC,

Same for me, when removing the crimp it sticks in and I have to smack the handle to release. Gets tedious after a while. If I had my time again I would choose a different swager but it has a new use now.

[FLshooter]

JC and Klem, I despise the RCBS swage tool.I hated having to slam it, it started hurting my palm after a while. I found a used Dillon a super swage 600 at space Coast bullets a few years back for $80. It came with all the accessories to do different sizes.
I bolted on a piece of 2 x 12. All I do is clamp it to my bench and it’s really easy. No stick no bind. I do 500 count batches of 223 range brass. I don’t bother to check them.I just swage the whole batch and it takes me probably a half hour at best.

[Klem]

FL,

Mate, don't make me jealous. I have 300 military 7.62 sitting in a tub waiting for crimp removal and not looking forward to it. Probably why they've been sitting there for weeks.

[centerfire]

I have the RCBS kit and a Dillon super swage. The Dillon is faster and does a much better job but still cumbersome. I also have a Swage-It for the XL650 so I can size and swage in a single operation. I have buckets of 5.56 brass and there was no way I was going to run it all through the Super Swage.

I'm unclear how the RCBS swaging die can tighten up primer pockets. I need to take a closer look, I have some brass with loose pockets.

[Mad Charlie]

I have the RCBS tool also, and yes it can be sticky. I started hitting the swage spud with a touch of Imperial case lube every few cases. It helped to smooth things up but I still get a little sticking.

I use a dedicated de-priming tool and pin tumble to inspect the cases and get the pockets clean before sizing and swageing military cases, then a wash in hot water with a little simple green to clean off lube.

[Mad Charlie]

I have the RCBS kit and a Dillon super swage. The Dillon is faster and does a much better job but still cumbersome. I also have a Swage-It for the XL650 so I can size and swage in a single operation. I have buckets of 5.56 brass and there was no way I was going to run it all through the Super Swage.

I'm unclear how the RCBS swaging die can tighten up primer pockets. I need to take a closer look, I have some brass with loose pockets.

Yeah, I am not too clear on how that works either...

[phishfood]

I haven't done it myself. But from what I can understand, those who are doing it are using the large pocket swager on small pocket brass. Since the large swager isn't able to go into the small pocket, it forces some of the brass inward into the pocket.

[Klem]

I haven't done it myself. But from what I can understand, those who are doing it are using the large pocket swager on small pocket brass. Since the large swager isn't able to go into the small pocket, it forces some of the brass inward into the pocket.

Correct, here is my system

1. When priming, Draw a marker pen across loose primers to identify them later, after firing.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15953[/ATTACH]

2. Separate after firing. Pop the [Small] primer out and fit the Swager for Large Primer swaging.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15954[/ATTACH]

3. A couple of firm presses on the handle. The large swager spud doesn't go into the hole but puts pressure on the soft brass surrounds. Some of that pressure splays the brass into the void.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15955[/ATTACH]

4. The kit comes with one Large Primer spud and stem, and one Small Primer spud and stem. You use the Large Primer stem and spud on cases with Small primers.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15956[/ATTACH]

Haven't had to do this on Grendel yet but need it for 6.5*47 (Small Primer pocket calibre).

It would be easy to make a dedicated stem threaded for a press and spud for the ram. Something more sturdy than the RCBS kit.







.