New Reloader - Reloading Workflow Sanity Check

[MegaHurtz]

Just reloaded my first 10 rds.

I took uber long as I was quadruple checking everything.

In the end, this is pretty darn easy...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]15480[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]15481[/ATTACH]

[Lemonaid]

I would suggest having a good record keeping system for your reloads. The link below is better than what I use. Time to upgrade!
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015...templates/

[MegaHurtz]

�� Indeed. Thank you!

As an aside, this page helped to lend a bit of clarity I was needing:
https://www.sinclairintl.com/aspx/learn/...?lid=16039
You da man. ��

-MHz

[A5BLASTER]

Just reloaded my first 10 rds.

I took uber long as I was quadruple checking everything.

In the end, this is pretty darn easy...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]15480[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]15481[/ATTACH]

You might want to take a look at your seating die. That are your really compressing the powder load.

Your bullets all have a compression ring just under the tip. I get that sometimes when I'm seating the 129 ablr over my load of h4895. But that bullet takes up a lot of room in the case.

I'm not sure how well compressed loads will play in the ar chamber. In a bolt action it has been go e for me but it might not play well in the ar.

Just food for thought.

[MegaHurtz]

Thanks for the heads-up. Those marks are actually from my spinning the round in a concentricity checker, to see if the seating die is providing a concentric finished cartridge.

For the most part, they are w/in .001", with 3 of them requiring a small nudge to get them to w/in .001". I too noted the marks and will eventually cobble together a teflon insert to mitigate same.

You've a good eye. Kudos. Thanks again.

-MHz

[MegaHurtz]

I grew up watching my dad and uncle reloading.But I didn’t start reloading for myself till almost 20 years later.What helped me out was the Lyman Reloading manual.It gives you a lot of tips on getting started when you are new.
I don’t like getting load data from the Internet. What works for someone else usually does not work for me.I have a Sierra manual and I have a Hornady manual. Also downloaded a Hodgdon manual on my iPad.
Like anything else you start it’s going to be a lot of trial and error. For me the important thing was to be safe.That is why I always start at the low-end of the load data.I move up .2 or .3 g at a time.I also like to have an LE Wilson case gauge for each cal to make sure my case shoulders are pushed back enough.

All good points, I perceive. Thank you for your input.

I do indeed have a LE Wilson case gauge, as a sanity check. To @LRRPF52's point, with the case comparator and other goodies, I find it to be purely cathartic, as the other steps sort of negate the need to do so. But, ima likely continue to employ its use, just as a risk mitigating additional step.

[teppou]

Reloading in the hangar, huh? Do you keep the gear locked in the plane when you're away?

[BCHunter]

So question and comment on your first 10 rounds.
Why did you load all at 30.0 g? This is 3% of max load as listed in hornady 10th edition load manual. 31.2 grains max.
This could potentially be over pressured not having a baseline for your rifle.

A more cautious way to go about it would of been to load one round each at 28.0, 28.3, 28.6, 28.9, 30.2, 30.5, 30.8, 31.1grains.
Shoot these over your cronograph, and watch for velocity spike or plato. And inspect brass after each round.
Then do and reload 5 rounds at and below were the velocity change was.

Picking an arbitrary starting point, or someones pet load is a bad habit for a new reloader. Always go 10% below someone's load and work up to it.

Many people want to save components or time by using someone's load, and not do a work up. Reloading components are cheap, reative to firearm parts and body parts.

[guitarhillbilly]

One reason most folks reload is for accuracy and it still amazes me how many folks will do all kinds of steps for consistency but never weigh the bullets . I do this no matter what brand of bullet I use because of grain variations in each box.

Example:
If you are taking time to measure the powder charges for safety and accuracy might as well take the time to weigh each bullet out of the Box before using it. I've seen a box of Hornady 143 grain ELD-X bullets weigh from 142.5 to 143.3 grains .Weigh all 100 in the box and put them into [ .2 grains or less ] sub-groups with each other and this will also improve accuracy. I usually get about 70-80 bullets from the box that will weigh within .2 grains of each other and use them for reloading my batch of ammo.

[MegaHurtz]

Reloading in the hangar, huh? Do you keep the gear locked in the plane when you're away?

It's a secure T-Hangar (a leased single A/C storage facility rented from the FBO), thus no concerns about security. Good question, however.

[MegaHurtz]

So question and comment on your first 10 rounds.
Why did you load all at 30.0 g? This is 3% of max load as listed in hornady 10th edition load manual. 31.2 grains max.
This could potentially be over pressured not having a baseline for your rifle.

A more cautious way to go about it would of been to load one round each at 28.0, 28.3, 28.6, 28.9, 30.2, 30.5, 30.8, 31.1grains.
Shoot these over your cronograph, and watch for velocity spike or plato. And inspect brass after each round.
Then do and reload 5 rounds at and below were the velocity change was.

Picking an arbitrary starting point, or someones pet load is a bad habit for a new reloader. Always go 10% below someone's load and work up to it.

Many people want to save components or time by using someone's load, and not do a work up. Reloading components are cheap, reative to firearm parts and body parts.

An excellent observation/question. Being new to this, that was mostly an arbitrary load that I plucked out of the Hornady manual. I suspect that you've cringed a bit there. I get it.. Was done more as a practice session vs loading for actual shooting use. Ima yank the projectiles (I've a collet puller for the press), empty the powder and start over with an actual ladder evolution as you've suggested.

Thank you for your input and safety-minded recommendations. I appreciate it more than you know.

I guess that I could just sit on those and use them after working up through a ladder that proves them to be safe loads...

[MegaHurtz]

One reason most folks reload is for accuracy and it still amazes me how many folks will do all kinds of steps for consistency but never weigh the bullets . I do this no matter what brand of bullet I use because of grain variations in each box.

Example:
If you are taking time to measure the powder charges for safety and accuracy might as well take the time to weigh each bullet out of the Box before using it. I've seen a box of Hornady 143 grain ELD-X bullets weigh from 142.5 to 143.3 grains .Weigh all 100 in the box and put them into [ .2 grains or less ] sub-groups with each other and this will also improve accuracy. I usually get about 70-80 bullets from the box that will weigh within .2 grains of each other and use them for reloading my batch of ammo.

Fully agree. I've weighed the FF cases I have and have segregated them into groups of xxx.yy gns (ignoring the fractional - i.e. All 114.00 - 114.99 gn cases grouped together), primarily for case volume purposes.

I was wondering what a good fidelity weight for segregating the projectiles was - 0.2gn seems to be as good of a starting point as anything. That helps.

Yes, my mindset is that I'm reloading for three reasons: hobby/cathartic therapy, cost savings, and accuracy, with accuracy being the overall driving factor once I get through the learning curve I am currently at the bottom of.

Thank you for your input - much appreciated.

[MegaHurtz]

... Shoot these over your cronograph, and watch for velocity spike or plato. And inspect brass after each round.
Then do and reload 5 rounds at and below were the velocity change was.

WRT a velocity spike, I grasp why that should be considered the upper limit to not employ.

WRT a velocity plateau, can you please expand on this? Is a plateau considered a good thing? Or indicative of any more powder will be blown out of the muzzle?

Plz edumak8 me sensi. TIA.

[White Smoke]

Looks like you are way overthinking the process as was said earlier. You don't need to do several of the steps you list unless you are striving for Olympic gold medal status. Just to simplify, unless you are using some sort of brass-catching device when shooting, I would suggest a short run through the tumbler first to get any dirt and debris off the cases before running the brass through a die. That just eliminates scratching the die. Secondly, just run the cases through a FL sizing/decapping die and then run the cases through the prep center and then a longer run in the tumbler. I believe you have a hand primer which is a lot easier than a press-mounted primer IMHO. Also...priming. I would suggest thinking about switching to #41 primers. The magnum primers you have are harder than "standard" primers, but the 41's were made especially for the AR platform to eliminate "slam fires". Most, if not all AR's nowadays come with a lighter alloy firing pin, so this is not generally a problem but it's just a safety suggestion. Just to see, fire your AR and then rack the newly chambered bullet out and look at the primer to see if it has a small dent in it from the firing pin going forward when the new round was chambered. My AR will leave a slight dent with standard primers, but not with the 41's. With most powder formulas, there's no way to dump a double load. The case just won't take that much powder. Most cases are near full with the suggested loads, but visually checking is always a good idea. I would be more afraid of an empty case getting through. You can do it whichever is to your liking, but I would suggest at least trying filling the case with the correct amount of powder and then immediately seating the bullet. If you have a loading tray full of filled cases, you could be asking for trouble. If you accidentally bump the tray and then notice some loose powder lying around, you'll have to dump all the powder and re-fill to make sure you don't have a light load. Just a suggestion to try. Good luck.

[A5BLASTER]

WRT a velocity spike, I grasp why that should be considered the upper limit to not employ.

WRT a velocity plateau, can you please expand on this? Is a plateau considered a good thing? Or indicative of any more powder will be blown out of the muzzle?

Plz edumak8 me sensi. TIA.

The flat spot I.E plateau is where your sd and es numbers are going to be there lowest and tightest. So if you find the charge in that flat spot that gives the best of those numbers and then work your seating depth.

You will have the best load for your rifle to as far as you care to shoot it.

[FLshooter]

Just reloaded my first 10 rds.

I took uber long as I was quadruple checking everything.

In the end, this is pretty darn easy...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]15480[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]15481[/ATTACH]

It?s not rocket science but to get good at it you?ll need time and experience. I?ve been hand loading for quite some time now and I learn new things all the time. Most important thing is to be safe and learn from your mistakes.

[A5BLASTER]

It?s not rocket science but to get good at it you?ll need time and experience. I?ve been hand loading for quite some time now and I learn new things all the time. Most important thing is to be safe and learn from your mistakes.

And document everything. Weighting everything down even the most smallest of changes can safe you from making a big possible dangerous mistake.

[MegaHurtz]

Looks like you are way overthinking the process as was said earlier. ... Just a suggestion to try. Good luck.

Thank you, sir, for the input. It is always good to have multiple takes on one's efforts as one works to smooth off the rough edges. I am one big effin pot hole at the moment, so shaving off the rough edges will be a work in progress for quite some time...

[MegaHurtz]

The flat spot I.E plateau is where your sd and es numbers are going to be there lowest and tightest. So if you find the charge in that flat spot that gives the best of those numbers and then work your seating depth.

You will have the best load for your rifle to as far as you care to shoot it.

Ah, makes sense. Wicked kewl. Thanks, brother. Much appreciated.

[MegaHurtz]

It?s not rocket science but to get good at it you?ll need time and experience. I?ve been hand loading for quite some time now and I learn new things all the time. Most important thing is to be safe and learn from your mistakes.

Yeah, it was a fear of the unknown that had me making this a lot scarier than it really is. I was pretty apprehensive that I was undertaking something that I would ultimately not be too successful at. Respecting an absolute and always present need to be fanatical about safety, I think that I can close the cover on the rest of those thoughts and start working to continue progressing through the learning curve. It is the constant learning about things that keeps me intellectually engaged and helps to prevent complacency, I've noted about myself.