Gas Block Moving?

[VW3]

Hello everyone,

I?m new here and am seeking assistance. I just picked up my first 6.5 Grendel upper. I traded for it from a local guy. It?s a Young Manufacturing side charging upper with a 24? Lilja barrel from Precision Firearms.

I took it shooting this last weekend and it shoots very nice. It short stroked a couple of times so I tried opening the adjustable gas block which seemed to work. Once I got it back home, I was looking at the gas block and it appears to have moved. The gas block is a Syrac Ordnance.

[A5BLASTER]

But it back where it goes and lock tite the screws down.

Edit to add. If it uses set screws to secure it. Buy a dimple jig and dimple the barrel and then lock tote the set screws down.

[VW3]

Pictures[ATTACH=CONFIG]14832[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]14833[/ATTACH]

[A5BLASTER]

Pictures[ATTACH=CONFIG]14832[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]14833[/ATTACH]

If that rail is screwed on you might want to remove it are move it. Looks like the block could be contacting the screws that hold the rail to the handguard.

Ok. So it's a clamp on style. Remove the hanguard and loosen the screws and line the gas block back up with the gas port. Put some lock tote on the screws and tighten it back down.

[VW3]

Alright. I thought I might have to do that and that?s my next question, how do I remove the handguard? It is a RRA TRO XL handguard and it doesn?t appear to just twist off. Maybe I can loosen the gas block inside the rail and push it back in there. I wasn?t able to budge the handguard after really pulling on it.

[A5BLASTER]

Alright. I thought I might have to do that and that?s my next question, how do I remove the handguard? It is a RRA TRO XL handguard and it doesn?t appear to just twist off. Maybe I can loosen the gas block inside the rail and push it back in there. I wasn?t able to budge the handguard after really pulling on it.

That I'm not sure of. Never messed with that handguard before.

Might try calling RRA and talk with them about it.

[montana]

If you are not getting your barrel hot, then the high temp locktite will work.https://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Adhesiv...8442-30769 I switched to Rocksett for my gas blocks. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools...54624.aspx Even the high temperature locktite will fail if the barrel gets too hot. Make sure the screws and threads are properly cleaned and use the Rocksett very sparingly. Using too much will have the opposite effect and the Rocksett thread lock will fail. I also stake my screws after being properly torqued.https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0061/3...c.pdf?2026

I found this info on another sight about the hand guard. It sounds like there is a jam nut holding the hand guard on, if this is the correct information.

Square toothed spanner for the lock ring (jam) nut.
30-35 inch pounds on the barrel nut, but if it doesn't quite align, you'll need to apply greater force to advance it to the next through hole for the gas tube.
Install the barrel nut, then the jam nut onto it. Install and align the hand guard, then run the jam nut back against it to retain it in place. I would use a small amount of non-permanent (but heat resistant) locking compound on the bbl nut thread just rearward of the hand guard section where the jam nut will pick it up and spread it thinly into the thread as it tightens against the hand guard..

https://www.ar15.com/forums/industry/RRA...8-247852/?

[PrecisionFirearms]

Take the Handguard off and tighten the bolts tighter. Those clamp on blocks should never move if properly tightened. We've never had a problem with that style when we factory build them. I dont believe this is one of our factory built units.

[VW3]

It wasn?t one of your factory built units. A local guy put it together.

While you are here, will the Lilja barrel shoot steel cased ammo without any damage to the barrel or chamber?