10-10-2019, 03:49 PM (This post was last modified: 10-17-2019, 07:48 PM by Bruce_Leroy.)
I have put about 150 rounds through my 16 inch Hanson barrel. The first 100 or so were just sighting in and break in rounds. All wolf or Black eldm. The best I could do in 3-5 shot groups were about 1.5 inches with the black. I was shooting prone with a bipod.
Barrel nut was tourqued to 45ft-lbs
The upper is an aero enhanced
Muzzle device is a vg6 65 gamma....
Now here is where I feel I need some insight. When I installed the md I tightened and loosened 3 times and it timed fairly easy. The problem is the 5/8 crush washer looks like it may have crushed off center some how. Could that be causing these flyers on shots 4 and 5? Cold bore shots are pretty much on the money.
If the MD is canted to one side it could definitely cause issues. The gasses will be acting upon the bullet unevenly. Some people will argue that I’m wrong, but I’ve seen it with muzzle devices incorrectly installed and my own form 1 suppressor that I bored .095” over .264 and shot a .300 win mag through it. No baffle strikes but the bullet was impacting ~ 3’ low at 100 yards. Grouped well, but dramatic poi change. This suppressor only affects all my .264 rifles by 1/4-1/2 moa. Put his suppressor on and poi was back on target.
I?m gonna pull the gamma and inspect the crown and shoot it with no md. I just read about similar experience with a BA barrel that was having issues and it was the muzzle device. I don?t need .5 moa but I would like to see it shoot at least 1 moa
My BA's all do less than 1" as long as I do my part, they definitely have that in them.
I use a lot of VG gamma's.
The trick is to use either the accuwasher system (like Frb says above) or a jam nut (you can get 1-3 5/8-24 jam nuts on Amazon, even 1/2-28's for 556's)... something that is a) not thin so it doesn't warp when tightened, and b) not a crush washer so it doesn't crunch off-center. Thing that's doubly nice about jam nuts is a) it only takes one and it's universal, and b) get one with flats so your crescent or torque wrench works on it. Use the j-n along with some loctite blue and you don't have to "torque it" to a set ft-lbs just make sure it's tight with the MB timed (2 skinny crescents work, one for the jamnut and one for your MB). The jam nut will leave a little gap between it and the barrel-shoulder but it's not a big deal.
I have also used the accuwashers and they also work very well.
Flat surfaces to flat surfaces avoids any torque or distortion or off-centering at the muzzle.
"Down the floor, out the door, Go Brandon Go!!!!!"
Ive built 2 rifles with the ba hanson barrels one in .223 wylde one in 6.5 grendel, they both have all aero parts M4E1, and the V6 eppsilon MD. They both shoot better then i can utilize in field positions.
What optic and trigger are you using?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]14770[/ATTACH]
BCHunter Wrote:Ive built 2 rifles with the ba hanson barrels one in .223 wylde one in 6.5 grendel, they both have all aero parts M4E1, and the V6 eppsilon MD. They both shoot better then i can utilize in field positions.
What optic and trigger are you using?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]14770[/ATTACH]
Using a Larue MBT and a Leupold Mark AR in an aero mount
10-11-2019, 05:56 PM (This post was last modified: 10-18-2019, 03:47 PM by LRRPF52.)
If it's a lightweight barrel, I would be happy and move on enjoying it every time I went to the range.
The 1 MOA thing is really for 10" groups at 1000yds from sniper systems.
Bench rest guys are looking to beat the last record, which is measured in inches shrinking every few years at 1000yds.
If it's for hunting, tell me the practical advantage a 1 MOA rifle has over a 1.5 MOA rifle at 200 or even 300yds. How about 400yds?
If you're good enough to visualize the heart at any of those distances, what does the math say about your ability to put a round through it with a 1 MOA vs 1.5 MOA rifle?
1 MOA at 200yds = 2" / 1.5 MOA at 200yds = 3"
1 MOA at 300yds = 3" / 1.5 MOA at 300yds = 4.5"
1 MOA at 400yds = 4" / 1.5 MOA at 400yds = 6"
The lungs are huge on a deer, generally around 10-12".
Most steel plates are 12-18".
We know you're not entering a competition with a Hanson profile lightweight Grendel carbine with small plates like in PRS, so I would and have been tickled with carbines that will shoot 1.5 MOA, especially if the barrels were in the $200 range.
When I want carbines that will shoot sub-MOA consistently just because, I've bought Liljas for twice that.
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO
CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor
6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:
My 12.5" BA barrel does not like the 123 ELDM Black ammo. At best its 1.5-2.0 moa. With handloads of 95 vmax, 100 TTSX, 100 Nosler BT Hunting, this thing shoots.0.4-0.9 moa. Also, it likes the COL to be as long as I can get it without actually touching the lands.
MarkS Wrote:My 12.5" BA barrel does not like the 123 ELDM Black ammo. At best its 1.5-2.0 moa. With handloads of 95 vmax, 100 TTSX, 100 Nosler BT Hunting, this thing shoots.0.4-0.9 moa. Also, it likes the COL to be as long as I can get it without actually touching the lands.
I am going to try some other ammo. I?m not expecting to shoot ragged holes with this gun but I still would like to make sure I?m getting the most out of the barrel.
Speaking from multiple experience's with that mount.
Buy something else, they may be great for a light weight close range blaster style setup but they are not for presision. That and they tend to break the locking lugs off way to easy.
Personally I like the leapold mark 2 mounts much better.
So I removed the Gamma and the crown looked good. I tried to remove the crush washer and it was warped and would not thread off. I used a pair of side cutters and cut the crush washer off. Went the jam nut route and took the rifle out to test. Shot two five shot groups and the first was right under one inch and the second was an inch and one-eighth with the same hornady black. I can live with that. No more crush washers for me.
Bruce_Leroy Wrote:So I removed the Gamma and the crown looked good. I tried to remove the crush washer and it was warped and would not thread off. I used a pair of side cutters and cut the crush washer off. Went the jam nut route and took the rifle out to test. Shot two five shot groups and the first was right under one inch and the second was an inch and one-eighth with the same hornady black. I can live with that. No more crush washers for me.
Muzzle thread tension in relation to accuracy is a thing, proven by Army Marksmanship Unit gunsmiths doing extensive testing at the range with every possible way to tune a rifle. I try to get as close to zero torque when installing muzzle devices, and use a thread locker to keep them timed, in conjunction with Precision Armament washers.
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO
CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor
6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:
