What cleaner/lube to use for new AR

[Gusmeister]

Frog Lobe, I run it with all my guns and no issues. I started using it it while still in the Army and never had an issue. Carbon just wipe out.

The trick is get the rifle cleans and degreased

Finally! Seems like my whole life I have always been the guy going against the flow but not this time. It does not feel as good as expected. Welcome to the forum NightStalker.

[NightStalker]

Finally! Seems like my whole life I have always been the guy going against the flow but not this time. It does not feel as good as expected. Welcome to the forum NightStalker.

Frog Lube is good stuff I think the people having a problem are not getting the rifle clean and degreased like they are supposed too.
Before I switched to the FL I used issued CLP and had nothing but problems. I was a DS Armorer so had some liberties and switched to the FL and never looked back
Thankyou for the welcome I’m enjoying the site but I have to say the info on the Grendel is confusing and a little overwhelming.

[FRB6.5]

ALG Go Juice and Very Thin Grease have been best I’ve used to date, though have no issues with Slip 2000 EWL, and have used Fire Clean, but it is very expensive per fluid ounce.

I can't say I was impressed with the Go Juice it seemed to burn/evaporate off rather quickly. The Very Thin Grease however lives up to their claims, it is thin and stays put, very happy with it. Slip EWL and EWL 30 hold up well.

As to cleaners, Shooters Choice for powder, Sweet's 7.62 for copper. I'll use Kroil as well in a highly polished barrel if just trying to remove powder fouling but leave some copper. CRC green can non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner for de-greasing as well as cleaning bore brushes, solvents dissolve the bronze over time. For something that has been heavily fouled or abused, JB bore paste.

[LRRPF52]

Frog Lube is good stuff I think the people having a problem are not getting the rifle clean and degreased like they are supposed too.
Before I switched to the FL I used issued CLP and had nothing but problems. I was a DS Armorer so had some liberties and switched to the FL and never looked back
Thankyou for the welcome I’m enjoying the site but I have to say the info on the Grendel is confusing and a little overwhelming.

I've seen Frog Lube shut down an otherwise perfectly-fine Noveske AR15 at one of my courses in the winter here in the mountains of Utah.

It literally felt like fine dust/sand like you would see in the Middle East after a dust storm or riding vehicles. There was no dust around because we were covered in snow, with snow and sleet weather.

I started to ask why the attendee had not cleaned or lubed the weapon before attending, and he insisted he did.

"What did you lube it with...sand?"

"No, Frog Lube...."

Several other people have reported similar experiences.

I also have a bit of experience with CLP, which works as designed. I think CLP got a bad rap because when we were young soldiers, we succumbed to the outhouse lawyer concept of lowest bidder, without having a clue the extent the DoD goes to when testing things. CLP works just fine, even in extreme cold.

The only use I've found for Frog Lube was on Cerakote jobs when installing gas blocks. You can use it to lube the journal so the coating doesn't get marred. It helps tight blocks slide right into place.

If I have to recalibrate the navigation system of a Clingon Star Cruiser to apply lube to a firearm, that isn't a user-friendly product, and I still doubt it will work in extreme cold where lubes really are put to test.

[NightStalker]

I've seen Frog Lube shut down an otherwise perfectly-fine Noveske AR15 at one of my courses in the winter here in the mountains of Utah.

It literally felt like fine dust/sand like you would see in the Middle East after a dust storm or riding vehicles. There was no dust around because we were covered in snow, with snow and sleet weather.

I started to ask why the attendee had not cleaned or lubed the weapon before attending, and he insisted he did.

"What did you lube it with...sand?"

"No, Frog Lube...."

Several other people have reported similar experiences.

I also have a bit of experience with CLP, which works as designed. I think CLP got a bad rap because when we were young soldiers, we succumbed to the outhouse lawyer concept of lowest bidder, without having a clue the extent the DoD goes to when testing things. CLP works just fine, even in extreme cold.

The only use I've found for Frog Lube was on Cerakote jobs when installing gas blocks. You can use it to lube the journal so the coating doesn't get marred. It helps tight blocks slide right into place.

If I have to recalibrate the navigation system of a Clingon Star Cruiser to apply lube to a firearm, that isn't a user-friendly product, and I still doubt it will work in extreme cold where lubes really are put to test.

I run it on all my weapons including my issues duty weapons and it’s never let me down. I’ve used it in Germany on my weapons without issue. I think we can agree Germany is pretty cold. There’s no trick to using it just degrease the weapon
Good then apply FL. If you want to store it dry then degrease the weapon, heat a little with a hair dryer, apply FL when it cools wipe the excess off. I’ve not had any issues and without seeing the weapon or knowing how it was maintained, I’m guessing lack of maintenance no matter what the person said. The grit could also have been from the ammo, but like I said I’d have to see it.
Not trying to argue just stating my experience with it.

[LR1955]

[quote=LRRPF52]I've seen Frog Lube shut down an otherwise perfectly-fine Noveske AR15 at one of my courses in the winter here in the mountains of Utah.

It literally felt like fine dust/sand like you would see in the Middle East after a dust storm or riding vehicles. There was no dust around because we were covered in snow, with snow and sleet weather.

I started to ask why the attendee had not cleaned or lubed the weapon before attending, and he insisted he did.

"What did you lube it with...sand?"

"No, Frog Lube...."

Several other people have reported similar experiences.

I also have a bit of experience with CLP, which works as designed. I think CLP got a bad rap because when we were young soldiers, we succumbed to the outhouse lawyer concept of lowest bidder, without having a clue the extent the DoD goes to when testing things. CLP works just fine, even in extreme cold.

The only use I've found for Frog Lube was on Cerakote jobs when installing gas blocks. You can use it to lube the journal so the coating doesn't get marred. It helps tight blocks slide right into place.

If I have to recalibrate the navigation system of a Clingon Star Cruiser to apply lube to a firearm, that isn't a user-friendly product, and I still doubt it will work in extreme cold where lubes really are put to test.[/


I run it on all my weapons including my issues duty weapons and it’s never let me down. I’ve used it in Germany on my weapons without issue. I think we can agree Germany is pretty cold. There’s no trick to using it just degrease the weapon
Good then apply FL. If you want to store it dry then degrease the weapon, heat a little with a hair dryer, apply FL when it cools wipe the excess off. I’ve not had any issues and without seeing the weapon or knowing how it was maintained, I’m guessing lack of maintenance no matter what the person said. The grit could also have been from the ammo, but like I said I’d have to see it.
Not trying to argue just stating my experience with it.

NS:

Not a hit on you but I just got to say that my idea of fun is not degreasing a weapon, heat with a hair dryer, let it cool, apply a lube, then wipe the excess off.

I recall trying a bunch of those high speed lubes when they were in vogue. Dry lube to wet lubes. Seemed that the more hype about a lube, the less it actually worked. The more processes a guy had to take, the more chance he wouldn't do one of them right and the lube would fail. Glad I came across a couple of gallons of CLP and even a quart of cold weather CLP. General purpose lube that works very well in all conditions and doesn't need any special sort of application.

For me, the test is shooting a lot in freezing rain and snow mix. Of all of them that guys would put on their carbines, the only ones that seemed to work were the ones a guy could squirt into the bolt carrier and bolt throughout the day and keep on shooting without malfunctions. CLP because that is what we had. WD-40 burned off way too fast. Frog lube and its clones simply never held up.

When guys ask me what to get, I say CLP. I do not know what the 'best' lube is for a gas gun. I do know that CLP is pretty forgiving in how it is applied and where, and that it will do its job under a huge variety of environmental and use conditions.

LR55

[NightStalker]

I treated mine when I built it so that’s all it’s known, along with the ones I build for people. Then after use it’s cleaned and lubricated and good to go.
Ya gotta use what works for you and being an Armorer I take my time and clean it well.

[rwh]

I'm still on the same quart of Mobil 1 5W40 I was using when this thread started. I use a precision oiler for RC cars to put a few drops along the places where the receiver touches the bolt carrier and a little around the bolt and so far so good. A few drops of oil goes a long way. I expect a quart of oil will last me 20 years unless my hinges start squeaking.

[Tacoma21]

I'm still on the same quart of Mobil 1 5W40 I was using when this thread started. I use a precision oiler for RC cars to put a few drops along the places where the receiver touches the bolt carrier and a little around the bolt and so far so good. A few drops of oil goes a long way. I expect a quart of oil will last me 20 years unless my hinges start squeaking.

Same here though I use 0w soley due to the frozen north.

To clean, I soak the bolt in a bottle of Hoppes carbon cleaner. After a few minutes, I pull it out, wipe it down and remove and left on carbon. The resr of the BCG gets a wipe down.

Fir the barrel, I use foaming bore cleaner and let it sit. Once I can see down the barrel, a quick squirt of CLP and a few passes with a bore snake.

Once fully assembled, I use a Mosin Nagant oiler bottle to put a few drops of Mobil 1 0w30 into the gas holes of the carrier then cycle it a few times to oil the rings.

[Chance-dg]

NO WD40....I have spent too many hours cleaning guns from bolt to 1911's to browning BAR's to get them to function properly and cease shooting patterns & return to shooting small groups again for my friends and family. And autoloader & pump shotguns.
That said: REM Oil w/Teflon works from 10 below to 110 especially if the can is inverted and shaken well to redistribute the Teflon particles evenly which settle a bit out of their suspension over time in volume. I am from western Montana and also use BF CLP a lot. One or the other but not together on the same gun.
For a bit heavier lube SIG got me to using MILCOM TW25B on my Nightmare Carry 1911"s and it works very well. I work it into my fingers and apply to high wear areas especially my BCG body bolt lugs, charging handle shaft, LPG pins etc. Shooters Choice Hi tech red on the fence about which one is better in cold weather. In super cold I use Graphite after a thorough degreasing. Any feed back on the TW25B would be great.....as well anything to shorten the process for more trigger and reloading time. Hoppes Bench Rest and #9 and JB's Bore Paste when necessary. Have used Butch's Bore Shine but it takes a bit longer. I am going to try Montana XTreme next on John Barnses advice.

All praise to the GREAT UNWASHED HOARD!!!

I have used these products for over 40 years and as they became available on the market with great success. Since starting my anal regiment of cleaning and lubricating LOL I " KNOCK ON WOOD " haven't had a frozen firing pin, too light firing pin strike. seized or sluggish bolt, slide etc.

I am currently breaking in 2 new complete uppers, a SIG Sauer 14.5 516 piston drive 556 and a 20"Grendel and starting a build around a GB 16" barrel and GB bolt.

[LRRPF52]

The Rem Oil will burn off AR15s really quick. Seems fine at first, then the BCG is heated and Rem Oil gone if you shoot high volume.

For the AR15 and AR10, it really pays off to use a thick, long-lasting lubricant that doesn't evaporate quickly.

I have some bottles of Slip2000 that do that really well, but I can't say if they do it better than Motor Oil.

The ability to keep applying it throughout a high volume course of fire and keep shooting (without having to completely disassemble and go through extraneous procedures) is important to me and all the organizations who shoot a lot.

I just ran into a guy recently who swears by Frog Lube and told him the experience one of my attendees had. He said, "It must not have been applied properly."

That immediately tells me it's not a user-friendly product for firearms if you can't squirt some on the BCG, into the cam pin helix, rub it on the carrier rails, lightly lube the bolt lugs and go to town.

If you have to use special tools to thermally prepare the BCG, that's a design flaw.

The marketing on the FL website is very hype-based. Lots of user testimonials with CAPS LOCKED and EXTREME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's not a good sign.

[Joseph5]

I have been using Fireclean on all of my firearms since it cam out and it has performed exactly as advertised for me.

[GjGary]

Butch's bore shine for the barrel
EWL or 5w30 synthetic for lubrication
Brake cleaner non-chlorinated

[Klem]

The Rem Oil will burn off AR15s really quick. Seems fine at first, then the BCG is heated and Rem Oil gone if you shoot high volume.

.

I agree with the Remington oil experience. I have used it... it lasts for a few minutes but then like WD40 it dries out completely.

I use Butch's bore shine on a brass brush to clean out carbon in the barrel, then patch out dry and apply a wet patch of oil - usually Sweets Oil.

I use WD40 for sluicing out carbon from the receiver and to those who swear it is anathema I have been using it on guns for decades. Not as a lube, as a degreaser/cleaner. I then wipe it dry and apply oil on the moving parts.

Recently scored a bottle of G96 Synthetic CLP gun oil (specs; MIL-PRF-6340E and NATO S-758). So far it seems to work OK but will know in time.

[FRB6.5]

IIRC Rem Oil is nothing more than mineral oil.

[FLshooter]

I’ve used hopes 9 bore cleaner and hopes lubricating oil in my guns for years.No problems.But,it’s not just the oil.I’t’s how you clean your barrel.
I use a bore guide and a one piece cleaning rod.I saturate a patch w/bore cleaner and slowly run it through.Then I puts a nylon or brash bush in 5 out5.I run patches through dry till they come out clean.Then one w/oil.Then one more dry.
For the bolt of my AR,I like Break Free CLP.

[gofastman]

I'm very new to ARs, but not to lubrication of mechanical components.
A general rule of thumb is if it doesn't have a dedicated system to provide oil to the components, grease is the answer for high wear areas.
Obviously slathering your BCG with thick grease might not be a good idea however.
I put NLGI #1 or #0 grease on the bolt lugs and cam pin. A thin, thin layer of it is all you need.
The other parts get CLP.
No malfunctions or significant wear marks on a brand new (cheap) BCA complete upper.

[olde sarge]

I presently use Mobil 1 synthetic with no complaints but never had any problems with Military CLP with the type and amount of shooting I do. Just hard to find the CLP now. Don't heat my weapons up with long drawn out firing sequences and they get cleaned every time I fire them (usually less than 25 shots). That may be why I have no problems.

[FLshooter]

Everyone has their own preference in gun oils.But,I think the most important part if that you keep them lubed w/something..My dad would use light machine oil,like 3 in 1.I inherited all his levers,pistols and bolts.All are well preserved.

[NugginFutz]

My thoughts are: If it doesn't see the light of day for long periods of time, then grease it lightly. Even then, I typically only use it on take-down pins, etc. Otherwise, EWL on any reciprocating or rotating components whenever I take them out to play. EWL stays where I put it and I have never had any issues with it drying or wicking away.