How do you guys level scopes?

[Klem]

Centrefire,

Thank you for making my point (the sarcasm in your first sentence).

I use bubble levels on most of my guns. I even glued one on my F-Class rest. For medium range AR's I use SPUHR mounts which have an inbuilt bubble. I find them very helpful, the further the range the more helpful.

Once you've squared your scope using whatever method, a bubble on the scope, mount or rail ensures the barrel and scope axis is plumb. Anything less than plumb results in canted groups. Are you suggesting otherwise?

[pinetreebbs]

I've used all sorts of bubble levels including a Starrett bench level, they are very handy for leveling the scope rail or mounts but not the scope itself. I have used the turrets but the best flat surface is the bottom of the scope body where the turrets are attached. You can use a strip of flat metal secured to the scope bottom with a rubber band to hold a level or get a scope leveling kit from Defensive Edge.

http://defensiveedge.net/index.php/produ...veling-kit

[Klem]

Pinetree,

I have used a set of hex wrenches when squaring the rail to the bottom of the scope. You slide in the closest fitting one on top of the rail and turn it slightly which raises it until it makes contact with the base.

[pinetreebbs]

Pinetree,

I have used a set of hex wrenches when squaring the rail to the bottom of the scope. You slide in the closest fitting one on top of the rail and turn it slightly which raises it until it makes contact with the base.

Interesting idea, I'll give it a try, thanks.

[FRB6.5]

Pinetree,

I have used a set of hex wrenches when squaring the rail to the bottom of the scope. You slide in the closest fitting one on top of the rail and turn it slightly which raises it until it makes contact with the base.

I use the flat portion of a Kleinendorst Remington bolt disassembly tool for the same purpose. Hex wrenches are a much cheaper and clever method.

[BobinNC]

For myself I use a older Tipton Gun vise. Level the rifle first. Then level the scope on the rifle. I use both feeler gauges and a small round bubble level on top on the scope turret. I also use a plumb bob to confirm my leveling job, and that the scopes crosshirs are not canted from the factory.

[diddlyv]

I hang a plumb bob off a tree limb in the back yard. put the rifle on the kitchen island which is level make sure the rifle is level and twist the scope till the vertical cross hair runs up and down the plumb line from very top to very bottom. Snug up and recheck to make sure vertical cross hair still aligns with the plumb line

[FLshooter]

When installing a new scope.I always lap the rings first.Then I level the rifle in my gun vise.I place the small level that came with my wheeler kit on the turret.Check It by eye.Tighten to 17lbs.Done.
I see no reason to turn a simple scope mounting procedure into a long drawn out science project.My groups are tight.And when I look through my scope the crosshairs are straight.

[Kswhitetails]

I hang a plumb bob off a tree limb in the back yard. put the rifle on the kitchen island which is level make sure the rifle is level and twist the scope till the vertical cross hair runs up and down the plumb line from very top to very bottom. Snug up and recheck to make sure vertical cross hair still aligns with the plumb line

That's called a kite in Kansas. Good luck getting a day with no wind, because 356 days of the year, that limbs gonna be twitchin' in the wind here.

Indoors, though and you're probably golden. In fact, I've heard guys use lazer levels for the same effect. Probably pretty darn good too. Level the rifle, then while looking through the scope, turn the level until the plumb line from the LL matches the center of the reticle, then plumb the reticle off the LL. Run 20 or so clicks and see what happens.

You wouldn't have to clamp the rifle, just run the clicks, use the level on the gun to make it so, and then repeat moving the LL to the center of the reticle. If it's still plumb, the erector should be. Return 20 clicks the other way, and check it again. It should be golden if that matches up again.

[diddlyv]

I must be living right as a new rifle and new scope for mounting have all occurred on windless days.

[pinetreebbs]

How about a non bubble levels method to level a scope to a Picatinny rail?

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAd_JWLmomI

It the Arisaka leveling device that uses wedges: https://www.brownells.com/search/index.h...&ksubmit=y

[centerfire]

You can plumbline your scope in your living room with a flashlight.

[Mad Charlie]

You can plumbline your scope in your living room with a flashlight.

True, but the dining room table makes it easier.

[centerfire]

True, but the dining room table makes it easier.

Is your table level though? Better get out another bubble level.

[Kswhitetails]

I must be living right as a new rifle and new scope for mounting have all occurred on windless days.

Whats a windless day? Sounds terrible. HA

After living all my life in KS, anytime there is no wind (spent a week in the hills of AR. Worst stagnant humid week of my life...) I'm dying for a breeze. I need it do dry the rain off my face, and keep me looking like a man not a swamp monster.

[Klem]

I'm thinking, out of all the different ways of levelling a scope they appear to be based on two assumptions;
That the reticle is absolutely square with the erector mechanism's travel. Or,
That the scope body is absolutely square with the erector mechanism's travel.

Shooters either use the verticle/horizontal reticle lines to align their scope, or they use the square edges of the scope's body (the top of the elevation turret or the flat bottom of the centre section).

So we align one of these so it is square to gravity, while coincidentally make sure the bore/scope axis is also square to gravity.

What we could (should) be doing is is aligning the scope's erector mechanism with gravity regardless of where the bore is (as long as this is how we shoot). Bearing also in mind that some reticles come canted from the factory, and this is so minimal that we don't realise. The obvious one's we return under warranty but I'll bet there are a lot out there causing problems with long range shooting and shooters don't realise why. The other assumption that the top turret or the bottom of the scope is exactly square with the erector mechanism is also based on hope and promise.

The next point is that our regular shooting position might be naturally canting the rifle. If you slowly take hold of the rifle and go into your normal cheek weld there's pressure from the cheek on the top of the butt, which cants the gun away from you. A bubble helps bring it back but I must admit it feels more natural for me to shoot a slightly canted rifle.

I'm thinking you could even go into your normal hold on the rifle, and then level the scope using one of the two ways mentioned in the thread, then check the inherent assumptions are correct (that the erector mechanism is square to gravity) by dialling up and down and watching the aiming point moving up and down a distant plumb line.

That way you can have a perfectly vertical or even a slightly canted gun but still have the erector mechanism square with gravity.

(some old bolt guns have iron sights engineered to be off to one side, so you are not mandated to have the gun/scope perfectly vertical)

Does this make sense, thoughts welcome?

[Mad Charlie]

Is your table level though? Better get out another bubble level.

I don't use bubbles, unless it's my machinist level.

[centerfire]

I don't use bubbles, unless it's my machinist level.

Is your dining room table trammed in?

[-Justin-]

I find a bubble level on the scope to be quite useful. I hunt in the mountains of Wyoming, and when you're on uneven terrain, quarry on uneven terrain, and some of the trees are damn near growing sideways from the wind.. that little bubble level helps counter all the extreme angles that can otherwise fool your perception.

[GREYBUFF]

Anyone use the Arisaka Optic Levelor? A friend just texted me said this is the best thing since the invention of the AR-15. Thoughts?