Ejected brass dented from deflector
#1
Every one of the ejected cases from my Grendel is slightly dented at the mouth from striking the deflector. I am using an adjustable Seekins gasblock and the screw is only open 3/4 turn and the action cycles fine. Is this a good indicator that my buffer spring is too light? Thanks in advance for any help given.

18" Liberty/Satern barrel
MLG
Fail Zero M16 style BCG
JP buffer / JPSCS2-15H2
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#2
Put some velcro (soft part) on your brass deflector and see if that helps. Just make sure the ejection port cover can open and close with ease. This is a common problem and this seems to help greatly with the dents on the case mouth.
""Come taste my Shillelagh you goat-eatin bastard!""
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#3
You can also push out the roll pin holding the ejector and ejector spring. Cutting a couple of coils off the ejector spring can help keep the brass from getting dented.
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#4
Velcro has worked well for me, fewer and less severe dents, if you have an ejection port cover be sure to verify clearance as Jakal mentioned.
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#5
Velcro treats the symptoms, not the cause. I had dented cases when I first used this calibre. Tried Velcro but it kept coming off and didn't completely eliminate the dents. Then tried the shorter ejection spring technique... that fixed it completely.

Remove the ejector and release the tension on the spring. Cut the ejector spring so it is flush with the bolt face when relaxed (a couple of coils). If you are unhappy it's only a couple of bucks to replace it from Brownells. I have yet to hear anyone who has done this and not been happy with the results.
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#6
a few questions for you...What direction is your brass ejecting? What weight buffer are you using? What recoil spring are you using?
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#7
Check which way your brass is ejecting and look at this chart.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]12165[/ATTACH]


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#8
Cutting 2 coils off ejector spring solved the problem completely, thanks!
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#9
Klem Wrote:Velcro treats the symptoms, not the cause. I had dented cases when I first used this calibre. Tried Velcro but it kept coming off and didn't completely eliminate the dents. Then tried the shorter ejection spring technique... that fixed it completely.

Remove the ejector and release the tension on the spring. Cut the ejector spring so it is flush with the bolt face when relaxed (a couple of coils). If you are unhappy it's only a couple of bucks to replace it from Brownells. I have yet to hear anyone who has done this and not been happy with the results.

Did this on all my comp guns for years and thousands of rounds. Never had any problems and would make nice little piles of brass to pick up
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#10
Awesome tip! Thanks
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#11
great tip!
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#12
Also keep in mind that if you have TDP springs and small parts, the selector/safety detent spring is the same spring as the ejector spring.

You always have a spare ejector spring that way, which can be replaced with the selector detent spring.
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO

CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor

6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:

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#13
Removal of 1 1/2 coils did the trick for me
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#14
This may help you understand the spring cutting procedure.

http://www.jebavy.net/high_power/competi...Tuning.pdf
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#15
Enlighten me....TDP springs??? please and you are speaking of the plunger ejector spring? contained within the bolt face? I am just clarifying before I do this to my own bolt due to case mouth denting.
Thanks
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#16
Chance-dg Wrote:Enlighten me....TDP springs??? please and you are speaking of the plunger ejector spring? contained within the bolt face? I am just clarifying before I do this to my own bolt due to case mouth denting.
Thanks

Yep, the spring inside the bolt face. it fixed my mouth denting issue.
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#17
Chance-dg Wrote:Enlighten me....TDP springs??? please and you are speaking of the plunger ejector spring? contained within the bolt face? I am just clarifying before I do this to my own bolt due to case mouth denting.
Thanks

Take Down Pin
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#18
Jakegsxr11 Wrote:Take Down Pin

This. The ejector spring and the Takedown Pin spring are the same.
If it's true that we are here to help others, then what exactly are the others here for?
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#19
Thanks great tips and rapid responses...…

Questions... the pin for the plunger ejector is immediately behind the locking lugs...correct? Is it necessary to remove the bolt to push the pin out far enough to...….of course it is to remove the spring and plunger from the bolt to shorten the spring. duh...
Is the bolt station built into my Wheeler Armorers Kit suitable for this bolt work??

Sorry for the simplistic questions but my computer won't let me start a new thread and I am learning the AR platform. I have 45 years of bolt rifle and wheel gun experience so not a total klutz here...lol
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#20
Chance-dg Wrote:Thanks great tips and rapid responses...…

Questions... the pin for the plunger ejector is immediately behind the locking lugs...correct? Is it necessary to remove the bolt to push the pin out far enough to...….of course it is to remove the spring and plunger from the bolt to shorten the spring. duh...
Is the bolt station built into my Wheeler Armorers Kit suitable for this bolt work??

Sorry for the simplistic questions but my computer won't let me start a new thread and I am learning the AR platform. I have 45 years of bolt rifle and wheel gun experience so not a total klutz here...lol

Better GET BUSY LIVING or GET BUSY DYING SEMPER DEINCEPS
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