Brass throw on uppers with no deflector......

[RANGER]

Got my GB 18" MONSTER barrel and excited to start the build. I have most of the parts now and waiting on a few others.

My upper is a billet upper with no forward assist or brass deflector. I chose this upper thinking that the slighter "stiffer" performance may translate into more precision at long range.

Downside, no deflector. Anyone shooting an upper with no deflector? If so, can I expect a nice 3-4 O'clock throw? Or will it be like the old days of Ft Rucker in the pit with my M16A1 getting smacked in the face with hot brass?

[Sticks]

You can tune your rifle to correct it if it does.

Adj gas block
Trim the ejector spring (I believe flush with the face of the bolt is ideal)

[A5BLASTER]

I use a upper with no forward assist and brass deflector.

Adjustable gas and tune to the ammo and it will be fine.

[NugginFutz]

My DPMS sporter slick side drops brass @ 3:00 and 5 feet away. An adjustable GB was originally used to coax the brass to fall into a neat pile, but I later performed the aforementioned spring trim and also polished the ejector pin to achieve the same results. No AGB on that rifle, any more.

[RANGER]

Great replies guys! Thanks.

I'll start out adjusting the GB (I'd like it to "just cycle" unsuppressed with the thought that suppressed it will cycle fine with no "over-gassing"). Then trim the spring.

So far I've got:

18" Monster barrel
Slick side Billet upper
Anderson lower (with built in trigger guard....thinking it may be "stiffer")
MOE rifle stock
Sierra Precision grip
Thunder Beast-7 (6.5mm)
Larue MBT-2
NightForce 5-25 ATACR with MOAR reticle
Larue scope mount
Atlas Bipod


Thinking of an SLR handguard

Any suggestions?

[RANGER]

My DPMS sporter slick side drops brass @ 3:00 and 5 feet away. An adjustable GB was originally used to coax the brass to fall into a neat pile, but I later performed the aforementioned spring trim and also polished the ejector pin to achieve the same results. No AGB on that rifle, any more.

Ok, so I get trimming the spring so you don't have as "hard a throw"....but polishing the pin? Are you reducing length?....Changing the angle?....or does a smooth finish somehow change the way it pushes/flips the brass out.

[Armadillo66]

Wolf steel cases go 3-4 oclock and 6 ft in about a 3' circle
Hornady black 2-3 oclock and bigger circle than the steel
Hornady SST 2-3 oclock and 2' circle
H2 buffer, Wolf heavy carbine spring on 18" heavy barrel and standard gas block
I now always use the brass catcher bag with reloadable brass

[Lastrites]

Ok, so I get trimming the spring so you don't have as "hard a throw"....but polishing the pin? Are you reducing length?....Changing the angle?....or does a smooth finish somehow change the way it pushes/flips the brass out.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2014...artridges/
Link to a mod for the ejector which Nuggin was sorta referring to, which is basically rounding the top edge just a bit and smoothing it up. It supposedly helps with the brass sliding into place instead of getting slightly hung up on the sharper corner.

[RANGER]

Thanks for the link!

[NugginFutz]

Ok, so I get trimming the spring so you don't have as "hard a throw"....but polishing the pin? Are you reducing length?....Changing the angle?....or does a smooth finish somehow change the way it pushes/flips the brass out.

Lastrites essentially got it.

There are two benefits to the ejector pin mod I enjoy. One is smoother feeding. The other is a reduction of brass shavings on the bolt faces.