Ok so I just DROS'ed a new lower and picked it up yesterday. After completing it I attached it to the upper and I am very dissatisfied with it. I have a stag lower that fits great but my stag was goin to stay w/ my 2T upper. I'm sort of upset that I could have bought another stag lower but I spent more $ and got a inferior product. I know there are a few different fixes but which is best? The rubber wedge insert seems like it would be temporary. I know there is a set screw mod but I don't remember where the link is. The last one was the wedged take down pins that tighten up and expand. I don't know what those are called. Any opinions, suggestions, or previous experience would be greatly appreciated.
I know it is counter intuitive, but sloppy fit does not deter accuarcy, but rattling and flexing buggs me too. I've used the accu wedge and the JP cammed pivot pin and glass bedding. If you are going to pair the upper and lower, bedding them is the most satisfactory to me. If you will swap lowers then the JP pin will do the trick but it is a pain to tighten, rquiring a properly fitting screw driver and an allen wrench. If you decide to go that route I have one somewhere I'll sell for 50% of new if I can find it.
Bob
Some people use pasters to build up the loosness under the rear lug where the pin gooes through. I think a piece of plastic used as a shim would work also.
I usually hand-select my lower-to-upper fit from batches, so that I get a really tight gun. I don't like Accu-Wedges, since they increase the tension of the receivers away from each other, rather than towards. I have also gotten good initial results with Cerakote, since it adds surface thickness, but the guns will eventually shoot loose if you shoot alot, and use a lot of sling tension.
How tough is it to glass bed a lower? I don't plan on swapping lowers that's why I just bought this new one.
It isn't tough at all, you can just bed the bottom of the rear lug which is pretty quick and easy. The important part is to use only enough bedding compound, MarineTex, or any epoxy, so that it doesn't flow into the hole or touch the take down pin. Degrease the lug area of the lower, wax the lug of the upper with a good coat of sizing wax or even spray on case lube so the compound doesn't stick to it. I usually use a wooden stick like off a swab or similar to apply the bedding compound and move it into the corners of the recess. Assemble the rifle and leave it in a horizontal, upright position until the bedding compound sets up about 3/4 cured, disassemble, inspect, and set aside to finish curing. Your done. The reason you disassemble before complete cure is that it is much easier to remove at that stage if some did get in the wrong places.
Bob
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An O-ring on the front takedown lug takes away most of the slop.
Jgloveracob Wrote:An O-ring on the front takedown lug takes away most of the slop.
+1
A simple oring can work wonders. Puts a little material in there and makes it a snug fit. Find one at Home depot, but make sure it fits tight onto the post.
stokesrj Wrote:If you are going to pair the upper and lower, bedding them is the most satisfactory to me.
Bob Bob
you beat me to it when I read the Title.
For what it is worth Robert Whitley, usually matches his upper and Lower in the method that Bob describes.
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stokesrj Wrote:It isn't tough at all, you can just bed the bottom of the rear lug which is pretty quick and easy. The important part is to use only enough bedding compound, MarineTex, or any epoxy, so that it doesn't flow into the hole or touch the take down pin. Degrease the lug area of the lower, wax the lug of the upper with a good coat of sizing wax or even spray on case lube so the compound doesn't stick to it. I usually use a wooden stick like off a swab or similar to apply the bedding compound and move it into the corners of the recess. Assemble the rifle and leave it in a horizontal, upright position until the bedding compound sets up about 3/4 cured, disassemble, inspect, and set aside to finish curing. Your done. The reason you disassemble before complete cure is that it is much easier to remove at that stage if some did get in the wrong places.
Bob Bob Just to let you know that I bedded the rear lug following your suggestion. It worked well, no more movement and unlike the accu wedge it is more permanent. Thanks for the tip.
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bob, did you prep the surface of the metal? i would think the epoxy wouldnt stick.
Yes, I use a degreaser.
Bob
Usmc1371,
Glad to be of help.
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i was wondering how the epoxy bonded to the anadizing? does it bond as well compared to bare alum.
be careful on using bedding compound on the lower if you swap uppers, if you do swap uppers, don't bed the lower, use and accu-wedge or other methods as each upper/lower fit is different
if you use the same lower and upper all the time, two ways of bedding the upper to the lower with bedding material. On method is applying bedding material to the mating surfaces and the other method is to bed where the lug is, where you would put the accu-wedge
some links on bedding:
for mating surfaces and lug, scroll down: http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...ber=803703
for lug area: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMzRvNgzr0k
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This is how my bedding job came out on my lower. It is hard to see in the pic but the bedding comes up in the back about half way up the lug. [ATTACH=CONFIG]751[/ATTACH]
looks like you did a good job on the bedding rasp....
i wouldnt expect that from that company...you done a good job bedding also. im just used to not the slack
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