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Flush Cups
#1
Anyone here using flush cup/quick disconnect sling attachments?? I'm considering putting some on my new Bell and Carlsen stock when it arrives. But, I'm concerned about them popping off while slung.

Any experience is welcome.
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#2
If you are talking about the Uncle Mikes's QD cup style sling mounts then yes. I use them on all my ARs

http://www.opticsplanet.net/troy-profess...apter.html

It seems to hold a 12 pound AR10 just fine even in a single point mount. There are junk versions that are made for airsoft. I would not use one of those on a $3000.00 rifle. If you put it in a wood stock, you should screw and glue it in.
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#3
Mutt,

There are several QD flush cup sockets available that can be mounted into your stock for a low-profile fit. I have used them on stocks, and I permanently attach them after drilling, then use epoxy or JB. I have done that on my AR10, and use the sling to help carry the beast during movement stages in field competitions where there are land nav courses, and round robin arrayed stages requiring timed movement from stage to stage, with no issues.

There are also these guys:

http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/p...nt-n-slot/
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#4
I think the OP was more concerned about the button part that attaches to the sling coming out of the socket. I know that there are less heavy duty versions and then there are the battle tested type with is of a heavier gauge that comes on slings like the LaRue.

http://www.laruetactical.com/larue-tacti...nch-swivel

DON"T USE A CHEAP AIRSOFT VERSION!!! There are not enough swear words in the English language if your beloved gun hits the ground because of a cheap part.
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#5
Well, I'm using the screw in cups, bedding them with JB weld and putting a small screw through the bottom (into the stock). So, I'm not worried about the cup part attached to the stock coming out. What I'm concerned about is the push button part that attaches to the sling. I can visualize it just popping off if something were to touch the button.
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#6
I use them on several of my guns and have not had one come out yet.
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#7
I was checking out some of these sling attachments today. I was suprised how far "IN" you have to push the buttons. That takes away some of my worry.


These are the attachment points I ordered from Triad Tactical .......

http://www.triadtactical.com/Bushing-Set...wivel.html
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#8
Never had an issue as long as they are fully seated. I always give 'em a tug after connecting just to be sure.

I suggest getting one with limited rotation for the front, as it helps to prevent unwanted twist.
Drifter
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#9
I always test mine out, and have found some that were made in....the shock of it: China, that are worthless. They pop right off, so buy something with a good reputation, then double-check it with your gear. The sockets were actually good on the Chinese copies, but the swivels themselves are not...too small diameter. There is an element of binding force on QD swivels that secures them, so the more you pull on them, there more they bite into the socket. If they're too narrow, they'll slip.
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#10
I was told at my local shop that there are two different kinds of flush cup swivels. Commercial and Mil Spec. They also said they are two different sizes. One won't work with the other. If you put a commercial swivel in a mil spec cup it will pop out. This is the first I ever heard of this. There any truth in this??
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#11
Mutt Wrote:I was checking out some of these sling attachments today. I was suprised how far "IN" you have to push the buttons. That takes away some of my worry.


These are the attachment points I ordered from Triad Tactical .......

http://www.triadtactical.com/Bushing-Set...wivel.html

I had never seen the type that screw into the stock. The ones that I have seen have ridges that get epoxied into the stock and then you put a screw down into the bottom to make sure it does not come out.

http://www.unclemikes.com/products/push_...ivels.html

I don't think I would like the screw in type as it would not leave as clean of an edge where it meets the wood or fiberglass stock.

I use the Uncle Mikes cups (owned by Bushnell) with a screw in the bottom on my Vtac hand guard to mount my sling. The Uncle Mikes cup socket fits the swivel that LaRue Tactical and Troy sell. The only other way that I could figure to mound a QD to the JP Vtac hand guard was to use a section of rail and then use a rail mounted QD which would add weight and not be as low profile.
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#12
Here are some more options for flushcup mounts for handguards. http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/p...-inc-vtac/
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#13
Any suggestions tow which ones to use with Magpul UBR quick sockets, and a socket that would screw into the hole threaded for standard sling studs.
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#14
The one pictured rasp 65 would work just fine. Just use a normal screw instead of the little screw and block that comes with it. If you are putting it onto a normal wood stock, I would go with the screw it ones. The flush cups I'm installing are going onto a synthetic stock for a bolt action rifle.
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#15
StoneTower

I used this PRI product on my mid length VTAC handguard - effectively eliminating the need for an additional section of
rail. Not totally low profile but not bad...

http://www.precisionreflex.com/Detail.as...1&CAT=4209
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#16
I use the cup QD on my Larue rail sometimes. It's been fine as far a holding strength so far but the ring portion of the swivel has been beating up the anno a little where it rides. Not an issue for me personally with this rifle. However if I had a rifle I was trying to keep pretty I would look at a mounting system that kept the swivel up off of the rails themselves. Those Uncle mikes shown a couple posts up would likely do the same thing. As the swivel turns the ring will be right up against the wood/paint of your stock if you set them flush and will probably tear up your finish in a hurry.
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