What cleaner/lube to use for new AR

[NugginFutz]

I am sorry if you thought it was a dig. I guess these products no longer work as well as they did in 1997.

Sorry you misunderstood the expression. Years ago, in my youth, I played on the base volleyball team. A "dig" was when someone saved the ball from hitting the floor, thus "digging it out" and preventing a certain score. I guess it's a little like surfer-speak, when you hear about a "gnarly" wave.

[bj139]

NG, I did misunderstand. Sorry for that. I am just trying to convey helpful information to the members and maybe do a little light hearted ribbing along the way.
On this board I still don't know what is more important, an expensive show piece or a rifle that looks like it has been dragged through the mud but shoots one hole groups at 1000 yds. I am exagerating a bit, but not much. I guess to some one, to others the other.

[LR1955]

Guys:

Guess what?

https://www.amazon.com/Eezox-Synthetic-G...+lubricant

That said, I didn't see any bilingual instructions.

LR55

[NugginFutz]

Guys:

Guess what?

https://www.amazon.com/Eezox-Synthetic-G...+lubricant

That said, I didn't see any bilingual instructions.

LR55

Well played, sir.

[LRRPF52]

One thing we have to think about with the AR15 and other gas-operated weapons that generate heat wherever the excess gases are allowed to vent is lubrication of those areas.

Since the AR15 vents from within the carrier out the ejection port, any thin lubricants we place on the main reciprocating mass might have a tendency to evaporate quicker due to cooking off.

This is one area where I find thicker lubes to be useful, but this is normally on high-volume guns.

For bolt guns, I have different considerations as there is hardly any heat sinking into the bolt body or lugs.

[bj139]

I have some Eezox which I used about 10 years ago. I stopped using it for general lubrication because it dries on the surface. In operation, it provides no hydraulic shock absorption that a liquid on moving surfaces provides. On sufaces to prevent rust it works great. I keep a can of Rem oil in my range bag and if parts look dry I spray a bit. Rem oil is not greasy after a few minutes so there is no slippage in the hands but it remains between moving parts. Even a substandard oil which is used is better than the best oil which is left at home when it is needed.

[phishfood]

Not a direct answer to the original question.

But I got my hands on a can of G96 quite some years ago. I used it on a steel everything carry pistol for a long time. It did as well as anything else I have used, and better than anything else except maybe CLP at preventing rust, even when carrying IWB here in sweatyhumidhot C FL. And it seemed to do well as far as lubricating during 2-400 round trips to the range, even after being jammed down inside my pants all week.

And I am going to leave that one right there.

[soloelcap]

I use CLP on all my match guns because it works and I've never had any problems with it. My match AR's take a beating and I usually just wipe the bolt carrier off and reapply after each match, clean real good after a couple hundred rounds. I just bought a bottle of Go-Juice from ALG Defense to start trying, seems slick and clean and that group knows AR's.

[bj139]

I saw a corrosion test where Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner won over about 16 other lubricants. I think I will try it.

[derek45]

I use old Hoppes #9 or KROIL for bore cleaning.

I use MOBIL 5w30 for gun oil. cheaper than CLP, doesn't burn off as fast.

works very well in all temperatures

[Grendelshooter]

Royal Purple 5w-30 works well in all my rifles.

If it's good enough for my 500rwhp LS1 it's good enough for my guns.

Though I have used mobile 1 on machine guns in the past and it worked fine.

[RobertFL]

I used LSA from mid 1980s till I sold my AR 15 in 1997. I got a new AR less than 2 months ago. I have been using Lucas gun oil and Lucas Extreme, both seem to be scent free. I have used plain Mineral oil on my Black powder rifles, hand guns and bolt action rifles for over 25 years..no rust or wear problems, but I don't shoot a lot of bullets if that makes any difference. I'll be looking at using the Mobil 1 and Royal Purple, a quart will last me 50 years..

[Sticks]

Or just use what you run in your car. IIRC one dipstick worth (check your engine oil level) is more than enough oil for an AR on a range trip.

[mdewitt71]

I have used CLP for 30 years and have no issues with it what so ever.
I did try FrogLube several years ago as it is based on being invented by a recent ODA team member and a several of us recently retired guys wanted to try it out although none of actually knew this guy or what team he was in..... long story short, I don't think any of us really liked it much except it made the rifle smell wonderfully sweet and I suppose we could lick the bolt like a lollipop for food if in a dire emergency. The systems all ran worse as previously mentioned, although we all followed the instructions were told we were not using it properly. :confused:
I then watched several videos of Hickok45 on Youtube and he loves, loves, loves Ballistol so I bought a case off of the net as there was not to be had locally anywhere.... thankfully the stuff has hundreds of home, auto, and farm application uses because I really didn't care for the smell or the residue foamy look and feel it left on rifle parts.......
I am back to CLP and get it my gallons, seems to be the way to go for me,

[pelikan800]

I use Slip 2000 EWL on my BCM AR. No issues in around 2500 rounds. You may want to Google "filthy 14" to get an idea of how long an AR can run if properly lubed. Filthy 14 is an AR that was run in Pat Rogers (RIP) shooting school that has much harsher firing schedules than most of us will run. A good primer on what not to do, and how well an AR will run with proper lubrication. Cheers!

[pelikan800]

I use Slip 2000 EWL on my BCM AR. No issues in around 2500 rounds. You may want to Google "filthy 14" to get an idea of how long an AR can run if properly lubed. Filthy 14 is an AR that was a rack gun run in Pat Rogers (RIP) shooting school EAG Tactical, that has much harsher firing schedules than most of us will run. A good primer on what not to do, and how well an AR will run with proper lubrication. Cheers!

[Crusty]

I use Ballistol for nearly everything and a little moly grease on my cam pin and bolt sealing rings, with good results.

I understand that WD-40 shouldn't be used in firearms because it is too penetrating and can creep into primers of loaded rounds left in a weapon, causing misfires.

[Trident00]

FWIW. I have been very pleased over the years with Rem Oil. I have used it in both Colorado in the winter, and Florida in the summer.
I have used it on everything from bolt action rifles to SMG’s and LMG’s.
In all that time my only issue was on a FA Uzi during a snowstorm in the high Rockies.
I’m figuring I over lubricated, and it had sat in a cold vehicle most of the morning.

I will be trying some of the other lubricants suggested.
Great stuff
Cheers

[1Shot]

Hoppes #9 or when copper fouling needs to go Shooter's Choice in the bore and WalMart's brand of full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil as lube just like my cars and trucks get. I have used lots of lubes over the years and the synthetic motor oil seems to work just fine for me. Oh, you don't need to drown them in oil either, a little goes a long way.

[AZHTfreak]

+1 avoiding Froglube. I clean with CLP, lube with Slip2000 or Mobil1 full synth...