Lower Build (New Member)

[Princess_Jamie]

I HIGHLY reccomend a LaRue MBT2 trigger. On sale they are $100 and rank up there with some of the best including the geissele's.

I took your advise and ordered the LaRue MBT2. I only have experience with mil-spec stock triggers on m4/16/my other ar15.

[Kswhitetails]

Oh boy. You won’t be disappointed. Everything that Gisselle makes quality and performance wise, but in one intuitive package. Two stage: no creep take-up, wall, fire. Really great for groups. Almost like a set trigger and a fire trigger. I really like my four... ahem. Ok full disclosure, I drink the Larue coolaid.

[Princess_Jamie]

Oh boy. You won’t be disappointed. Everything that Gisselle makes quality and performance wise, but in one intuitive package. Two stage: no creep take-up, wall, fire. Really great for groups. Almost like a set trigger and a fire trigger. I really like my four... ahem. Ok full disclosure, I drink the Larue coolaid.

should I be worried about trigger pin walk with the larue?

[Kswhitetails]

Nope. Not for Grendel. I don't know that trigger pin walk is something anyone would be too concerned with if they're not walking the local landscape presented as a target rich environment; finding themselves actually getting concerned about running out of all the ammo they could carry every day; and going potentially days before a maintenance/cleaning session of their firearm. I think there is a place for anti-walks, but the run of the mill Grendel here at home isn't one I think would be necessary. Most folks like the looks, but as far as function goes, I've never heard of anyone having an issue with properly installed standard pins, on any home grown AR.

Someone may chime in, but I personally think anti-walks are another example of a solution waiting for a problem.

The benefit would be that you could build without them, and 10k rounds later, when they start to maybe move, you could spend the $30 then, and install the fix. Maybe?

(if it is a looks thing afterall, then by all means - bling away )

[Princess_Jamie]

Nope. Not for Grendel. I don't know that trigger pin walk is something anyone would be too concerned with if they're not walking the local landscape presented as a target rich environment; finding themselves actually getting concerned about running out of all the ammo they could carry every day;

Awesome, I'll just put in in the eventually column of my list. What about takedown pins as mentioned. Sorry for all this question flooding. I never really put time into an AR built like this.

[just_john]

There is a groove in the pins that the trigger / hammer springs is supposed to catch into that prevents them from walking out of the lower.

[StoneHendge]

Nope. Not for Grendel. I don't know that trigger pin walk is something anyone would be too concerned with if they're not walking the local landscape presented as a target rich environment; finding themselves actually getting concerned about running out of all the ammo they could carry every day; and going potentially days before a maintenance/cleaning session of their firearm. I think there is a place for anti-walks, but the run of the mill Grendel here at home isn't one I think would be necessary. Most folks like the looks, but as far as function goes, I've never heard of anyone having an issue with properly installed standard pins, on any home grown AR.

Someone may chime in, but I personally think anti-walks are another example of a solution waiting for a problem.

The benefit would be that you could build without them, and 10k rounds later, when they start to maybe move, you could spend the $30 then, and install the fix. Maybe?

(if it is a looks thing afterall, then by all means - bling away )

The antiwalks are only about 12 bucks and don’t connect to each other like anti rotation pins - just a screw in cap on each side that provides enough flange to keep them from ever going anywhere. Maybe it’s just me. I’ve also had problems with rear site pins walking on more than one Ruger revolver

[Kswhitetails]

The take down pins are nice. I would say that they of any upgrade over the standard lower parts kit they are a good starting point. They don't really take away from the 'mil-spec' feel of the rifle, and it is really annoying to finish a new build only to realize that you won't be able to push the pins without the help of tools until you've done it a few hundred times, ask me how I know... The better pins are much easier to move from de-tent to de-tent without cursing. And considering that you have to push them often during the break in and adjustment of said build, I say they are a good choice.

As an aside, the higher quality LPKs out there, if you can get them in stock, BCM, DD, Noveske etc... all have great parts. The cheaper kits are usually frought with potential issues in lower quality and finish pins, springs, and de-tents. They work, but... If I were doing it again, and had time to acquire the parts, I'd hold out for a BCM mod 0 kit, which is nice because it includes the awesome BCM grip. They are more pricey, but worth it. Sometimes, the big names are worth the money even if you can't "afford" it, and I would say if you can, they always are.

[Kswhitetails]

The antiwalks are only about 12 bucks and don’t connect to each other like anti rotation pins - just a screw in cap on each side that provides enough flange to keep them from ever going anywhere. Maybe it’s just me. I’ve also had problems with rear site pins walking on more than one Ruger revolver

Can anyone tell me what the benefit of an anti-rotation pin would be?

[StoneHendge]

Can anyone tell me what the benefit of an anti-rotation pin would be?

In addition to preventing walk, they stop the steel trigger pins from rotating in the aluminum receiver and potentially wearing the trigger pin holes in the receiver. My guess is that is the problem I had with my 300 BO. The trigger pin holes had gotten pretty sloppy - after only about 1k rounds. Or maybe they were on the wide side of spec to start with.

[Randy99CL]

Can anyone tell me what the benefit of an anti-rotation pin would be?

I've noticed that when I dry fire my AR the hammer pin sometimes rotates a little. I keep it oiled (hammer, not the alloy) so I'm surprised that it does.

Don't know if it actually matters but I could see the steel pin wearing the aluminum over time. Would ovalize the holes and change the hammer/sear relationship.

[Frontier Gear]

I've sold or used hundreds of anti-walk pin sets. They have their place. They are not always needed, but are sometimes recommended.

Uses:

• Certain drop in triggers. Some like the JMT Saber need them. Others like Rise Armament recommend them.
  
• Polymer lowers. As already mentioned, the anti-rotation pins keep the hammer and trigger pin from rotating and moving back and forth. Those movements can wear out polymer lowers prematurly.
  
• Drop in triggers with Polymer lowers. Most drop in triggers use two set screws that press down on the floor of the lower to hold the trigger in place. This will deform a polymer lower. The fix is to use anti-rotation pins to secure the drop in trigger instead of the two set screws.
  
• Raw aluminum, such as 80% lowers. Even if the aluminum lower was anodized, where you drilled the hammer and trigger pin holes is no longer anodized. Some people feel that the lack of anodizing can cause premature wear in the hole, so they use anti-rotation pins to prevent it.
  
• Blowback ARs such as 9mm. For whatever reason these tend to elongate the hammer pin holes in a lower. Anti-rotation pins help with the issue.
  
• Messed up 80% lowers. A lot of people mess up on their 80% lowers. Using a drop in trigger with anti-rotation pins to help keep all the geomitry in place is a very common fix and can cover a multitude of sins.
  

[Princess_Jamie]

I am taking all of your considerations in because I am going to be ordering the rest of the lower parts tonight. My upper parts will be here today but I will have to get my guy friend to pick it up for me because I'll be ubering/lyfting all the drunk people after work. I may get a takedown pin set, luthar grip (dimensions say it will fit my small hands better than an ergo or DPMS). Really looking at the quiet buffer assembly but perfer to get the 30mm scope rail from viper first.

[The Profit Joseph Sith]

I wonder how much the springs have to do with it. Both on the forward and the reverse travel if the hammer. The harder the spring rhe more energy is transferred to the chassis or receiver. Mostly people use anit walk/rotation pins in stuff like full auto where wound count will be very high and there us ALOT more stain put on those parts.

And what frontier said...

Pretty much anything 2A makes will be top teir including the small parts. Battlefield armaments makes good ones, KNS, Vseven all top teir good stuff.

Also might want to check out ergo's swift grip its definitely one of the smallest grips out there. Cheap to. I think i got mine for $10ea. http://www.primaryarms.com/ergo-swift-gr...-eg4093-bk
I got six on sale.
Of course then LaRue just had his divorce sale and i bought like 8 if the APEG's for $10ea. ;P
The Larue RAT stock for $40 was also an offer i couldn't refuse.

[The Profit Joseph Sith]

Heres a few decent parts kits. Id probably take the jp over the cheaper one. I have one of those and a BCM a few cheapo no names and lately have just been buying individual parts from primary arms. Black rain ordnance seems decent although i wasnt impressed with mag catch's. You can take the extras and save them for the next build (theres always another one)
https://www.rainierarms.com/jp-lower-par...-assembly/
https://www.rainierarms.com/pioneer-cnc-...e-product1

I wouldnt worry much at all about the LPK you really wont be using much of it. Pins will be swapped, no gaurd, etc.. Your mainly buying the bolt catch, mag release and safety. And the rest really basic standard parts. If you have any plans of upgrading the bolt catch or safety later to ambi or anything id be more inclined to just buy a cheaper set, get her built and upgrade the parts that are critical later. Its pretty hard to screw up basic springs and plungers detents and stuff like that.

[Princess_Jamie]

I'm looking at red barn armory for a customizable LPK. I like easy take down pin pull style so it keeps from me breaking nails to be honest.

[jackwagon]

[quote=Princess_Jamie]I'm looking at red barn armory for a customizable LPK. I like easy take down pin pull style so it keeps from me breaking nails to be honest.[/QUOTE
I have not used RBA, but I have gotten extended takedown pins off of ebay for $ 8-9 that work well. https://www.ebay.com/itm/223-Extended-Ta...SwjDZYbaNM

[Princess_Jamie]

Currently looking at the strike industries enhanced kit. Has the extended take down pins and looks to be an ambidextrous selector switch also. https://www.rainierarms.com/strike-indus...connector/

[AZHTfreak]

Now for a quality bipod to mount on.

I've been extremely happy with a GGG-1557 XDS-2 QD. Pre-loads nicely, BSH build quality and about $100 less than a QD Atlas.
https://www.gggaz.com/xds-2-quick-detach...bipod.html

Also, I really like Strike Ind Enhanced Bolt Catch! and +1 on the MBT vs the G2S...

[The Profit Joseph Sith]

You might REALLY like the Yankee Hill machine ez pull set. They are the first set i upgraded to and have grown to love them. They definitely aren't snag free though. Thats not a concern of mine. I hsed to keep my upper and lower in a SKB takedown shotgun case so i took them apart pretty often.
http://www.primaryarms.com/yankee-hill-m...t-yhm-7284

Thats strike industries set looks nice for the $ it would be hard to beat.