I try to suspend them with wire from the rack. Something will always be touching, but usually you can have the touching part be a section that is covered by another part so any marks will be covered up when it all goes back together. If I'm being lazy I just lay them right on the racks. I don't really bake anymore, though, unless I want something with more of a done-right-now finish. Anymore I just put it up and wait.
Dcommoncents Wrote:Thanks. And yeah, I laid out painter's tape on a plastic cutting board, drew some random patterns while looking at a multicam blouse, and cut them out with an exacto knife. It's tedious, but if you preserve the stencils they can be reused and if you space them out on the tape you get a positive and a negative stencil for each shape. You've really got to be patient between coats-- I've lifted earlier coats with subsequent stencils a maddening number of times.
Are you me? Because that's the exact method I came up with to do this shotgun:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]10350[/ATTACH]
It turned out great but damn was it a tedious process.
depletedyourcranium Wrote:Are you me? Because that's the exact method I came up with to do this shotgun:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]10350[/ATTACH]
It turned out great but damn was it a tedious process.
I'm glad someone is as crazy as I am to put himself through that! It's worth it though, I mean it's not exactly like my gun hobby is entirely, even mostly practical.
Yours looks great, definitely cleaner than mine. What was your order of paint and stenciling? I'm thinking about doing it differently on a 6.5G pistol build I'm working on by using mostly if not entirely male stencils and working essentially backwards from the following steps I've used in the past:
1) shade whole rifle w/out stencils in tan and brown colors
2) use female stencils and edges of male stencils to apply green shades while taping rest of rifle
3) use female stencils and tape rest of rifle as needed to apply the dark brown blobs
4) same as 3 to apply the light tan/whitish blobs
5) matte clear coat the heck out of everything
Dcommoncents Wrote:How do you support the piece in the oven? I have to imagine that it would be best to keep as much of the painted surfaces from bearing weight as possible.
I took out the bottom rack, and hung it with wire from the top rack also. I haven't touched it in a few days.... but I want to, real bad.
12-08-2017, 02:19 AM (This post was last modified: 12-08-2017, 02:27 AM by Dcommoncents.)
Nice LRRP, are you saying you did that in cerakote or you just prefer it? I've thought about trying cera or dura coat, but it seems like I'd be in at least a couple hundred bucks for the materials and equipment and I already spend more than i probably should on my guns.
12-08-2017, 03:55 AM (This post was last modified: 12-08-2017, 04:03 AM by Randy99CL.)
Dcommoncents Wrote:I've thought about trying dura coat, but it seems like I'd be in at least a couple hundred bucks for the materials and equipment and I already spend more than i probably should on my guns.
I really want to try Duracoat and it may be a little less expensive than you think. Midway sells a kit for $70; otherwise it is $20/4oz. so $60-$80 per gun but that's enough to do at least a few. https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQu...PerPage=48 They have some stencils for a good price too.
And then Harbor Freight sells a small compressor ($40 on sale) and airbrush for $10 to $21 for their best one. You'll need a few more bits and pieces to get it all to work.
A while ago I checked into hydro-dipping and I think it was $100-$200 per gun?
I plan to do my AR, a couple of pistols and a few stocks.
I think we all can agree the cerakote is great, as im sure the Duracoat and hydro dip are as well. But i think the product you can get out of $12 worth of Rustoleum is a great deal.
Dcommoncents Wrote:Nice LRRP, are you saying you did that in cerakote or you just prefer it? I've thought about trying cera or dura coat, but it seems like I'd be in at least a couple hundred bucks for the materials and equipment and I already spend more than i probably should on my guns.
I did those personally, made my own templates on wax paper and Brownell's high heat tolerant green tape.
I also did 45˚ angle USMC MARPAT Digital Desert, which was very painful. The Multicam was painful too. I overlaid the wax paper and tape on one of my blouses and traced the patterns.
Only reason I brought it up because people mentioned sanding and baking. If you're going to go through the trouble of sand-blasting your parts, and baking the finish, Cerakote is the way to go if you can do it safely.
You'll need access to a sand blast cabinet, ventilated spray booth, compressor, airbrush, PPE (respirator, gloves, hooded top preferable) and an oven that will fit the parts, lots of wire hooks, acetone, baths, pie tins for small parts, etc.
It's very dirty work that requires a lot of patience and a steady mind and hand.
My vision finally took a dump on me, so I wonder if I can even do it anymore.
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO
CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor
6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:
LRRPF52 Wrote:Only reason I brought it up because people mentioned sanding and baking. If you're going to go through the trouble of sand-blasting your parts, and baking the finish, Cerakote is the way to go if you can do it safely.
You'll need access to a sand blast cabinet, ventilated spray booth, compressor, airbrush, PPE (respirator, gloves, hooded top preferable) and an oven that will fit the parts, lots of wire hooks, acetone, baths, pie tins for small parts, etc.
I am a somewhat anal retentive do-it-yourselfer on virtually everything and although I feel like duracoat is probably the "correct" way to camouflage a gun, this hassle and expense has kept me from trying it out. I can only imagine what my wife would say if I tried baking gun parts in our oven.