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Rattle can builders set
#1
Decided to build a hunting rifle with my Black Friday $49 BCA 16'' barrel. Since I have leftover /take off parts from my other 3 builds there isn't really to much to buy, just a few alterations.

Checkmate 15'' keymod rail that I got off ebay, the rail itself is nice, but the finish was terrible.
Anderson complete upper receiver with an 80% lower.
Since I didn't think I could make it look any worse than it already was I decided to try a rattle can treatment. What do you think?

full disclosure.... I haven't hunted in 30 years, but DNS videos are making me think about it!!

So what do you think?[ATTACH=CONFIG]10327[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]10328[/ATTACH]


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#2
Looking good! What colors and kind of rattle can did you use? What did you use for a stencil?
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#3
Heck ya!! Very nice! BANG BANG!!
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#4
jackwagon Wrote:full disclosure.... I haven't hunted in 30 years, but DNS videos are making me think about it!!

Ha, I can relate! Shot a rabbit in '79 and haven't hunted since.
But retirement and hog hunting videos and proximity to a couple million hogs in Texas got me fired up to build my first AR (6.5 naturally) and give it (them) a shot.

I understand there are feral hogs in southern Ohio, any over your way?
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#5
ty_hooper12 Wrote:Looking good! What colors and kind of rattle can did you use? What did you use for a stencil?
I used Rust-oleum camo. 2 solid coats of khaki/fde , then placed it in a .99cent mesh laundry bag and just started painting angled slash lines with
black-od green and more khaki.Followed that up with 3 coats of clear matte.
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#6
Randy99CL Wrote:Ha, I can relate! Shot a rabbit in '79 and haven't hunted since.
But retirement and hog hunting videos and proximity to a couple million hogs in Texas got me fired up to build my first AR (6.5 naturally) and give it (them) a shot.

I understand there are feral hogs in southern Ohio, any over your way?
I have shot a couple of groundhogs since then, but that's not really a HUNT.
No wild piggies that I have seen, I am about 1 mile south of the MI state line, I would imagine they have some in southern IN.
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#7
I've done a fair bit of rattle can on guns in that past. The best thing you can do for it is once it is finished, put it away and don't touch it for at least 2 weeks, maybe a month. While you can handle it with a day or so, spray paint can take a long time to fully cure good and hard. If you let it fully cure it'll be almost as good as some of the really expensive finishes for resisting scratching and marring. You just got to make sure to keep the oils and solvents away from it.
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#8
I've done a number of multicam rattle can jobs now, all of which have held up remarkably well, some for years of practical shooting with no more than a few chips. The matte clear coat is key; you'll be glad you added that step for both a more finished feel and durability. Here's one example:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]10336[/ATTACH]


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#9
jackwagon Wrote:I used Rust-oleum camo. 2 solid coats of khaki/fde , then placed it in a .99cent mesh laundry bag and just started painting angled slash lines with
black-od green and more khaki.Followed that up with 3 coats of clear matte.

Thanks for the info! I really like the color combo. I thought that might be a laundry bag, I did that on an ammo can I have as a test, I like how it turned out on your rifle!
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#10
I would coat it with Matte Texture clear to take the sheen off a bit.
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO

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#11
Dcommoncents Wrote:I've done a number of multicam rattle can jobs now, all of which have held up remarkably well, some for years of practical shooting with no more than a few chips. The matte clear coat is key; you'll be glad you added that step for both a more finished feel and durability. Here's one example:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]10336[/ATTACH]
I like it.. Now you used stencils for that rifle correct?
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#12
LRRPF52 Wrote:I would coat it with Matte Texture clear to take the sheen off a bit.
Its funny because before you apply the matte the finish looks very chaulky. The matte really made more of the green come out than I wanted, but overall im pretty happy with it. My plan was to take a sanding block to it in about a week or 2( as DYCRANIUM suggested) and see if I can knock the sheen off.
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#13
depletedyourcranium Wrote:I've done a fair bit of rattle can on guns in that past. The best thing you can do for it is once it is finished, put it away and don't touch it for at least 2 weeks, maybe a month. While you can handle it with a day or so, spray paint can take a long time to fully cure good and hard. If you let it fully cure it'll be almost as good as some of the really expensive finishes for resisting scratching and marring. You just got to make sure to keep the oils and solvents away from it.

Baking rattle-can paint can make a big difference too. I can't recommend specifics but have heard that a few hours at 100 degrees can harden the paint more than it will ever get by air drying.
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#14
jackwagon Wrote:I like it.. Now you used stencils for that rifle correct?

Thanks. And yeah, I laid out painter's tape on a plastic cutting board, drew some random patterns while looking at a multicam blouse, and cut them out with an exacto knife. It's tedious, but if you preserve the stencils they can be reused and if you space them out on the tape you get a positive and a negative stencil for each shape. You've really got to be patient between coats-- I've lifted earlier coats with subsequent stencils a maddening number of times.
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#15
Randy99CL Wrote:Baking rattle-can paint can make a big difference too. I can't recommend specifics but have heard that a few hours at 100 degrees can harden the paint more than it will ever get by air drying.
Put it in the oven tonight...
Dcommoncents Wrote:Thanks. And yeah, I laid out painter's tape on a plastic cutting board, drew some random patterns while looking at a multicam blouse, and cut them out with an exacto knife. It's tedious, but if you preserve the stencils they can be reused and if you space them out on the tape you get a positive and a negative stencil for each shape. You've really got to be patient between coats-- I've lifted earlier coats with subsequent stencils a maddening number of times.
Seems like a little more time consuming than the laundry bag treatment.
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#16
There are a lot of videos showing how to do a number of different camo patterns. Many of them show stencils that they sell but obviously you can cut your own.
I really like the way Riptile looks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vpo1LosWoDs

Montactical will duracoat your weapon for $500.
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#17
I like! They all look awesome! If I get brave enough I might try this with one!
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#18
Randy99CL Wrote:There are a lot of videos showing how to do a number of different camo patterns. Many of them show stencils that they sell but obviously you can cut your own.
I really like the way Riptile looks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vpo1LosWoDs

Montactical will duracoat your weapon for $500.
$500 I can buy another gun, or scope.
82HALO Wrote:I like! They all look awesome! If I get brave enough I might try this with one!

Really I don't think you can mess it up, if you don't like it just start over.
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#19
Randy99CL Wrote:Baking rattle-can paint can make a big difference too. I can't recommend specifics but have heard that a few hours at 100 degrees can harden the paint more than it will ever get by air drying.

In my experience even with baking there is still no substitute for time. Pieces that I had baked at 200° for an hour were much dryer and harder than air dryed for a few days, but still were susceptible to the kind of scratching that it would resist after waiting for several weeks.
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#20
depletedyourcranium Wrote:In my experience even with baking there is still no substitute for time. Pieces that I had baked at 200° for an hour were much dryer and harder than air dryed for a few days, but still were susceptible to the kind of scratching that it would resist after waiting for several weeks.

How do you support the piece in the oven? I have to imagine that it would be best to keep as much of the painted surfaces from bearing weight as possible.
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