Dents in brass
#1
Hi, I am a new member trying to solve a brass problem. Whether using alexander arms ammunition or using their new brass and loading it I always end up with the same problem. After first or any subsequent firings I always have a sharp crease in the brass. It is always in the same spot, just above the rough halfway mark up the case. I put velcro on the shell deflector but it didn't seem to make a difference. Could this be happening during extraction. I will attach a pic of a once fired brass. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. John
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#2
Looks like my brass after I shoot. I haven't figured it out either.
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#3
That's the handy number of firings/reloads indicator

All of the Grendels I've shot do that, some more than others. (Buffering/Gas I guess)
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#4
I had the same issue initially. Those dents are most likely from the brass slamming against the back edge of the ejection port. Slow your carrier down by switching to a full auto carrier or a heavier buffer. A FA carrier alone fixed my problem. If get the carrier/ buffer too heavy you could cause short stroking.
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#5
FA carrier & H2 buffer in an AA 16" middy still makes the marks.

They do not cause problems, you'll wear the necks or primer pockets out before those dents become a problem.

I also believe it has to be the rear of the ejection port.
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#6
pinzgauer Wrote:FA carrier & H2 buffer in an AA 16" middy still makes the marks.

They do not cause problems, you'll wear the necks or primer pockets out before those dents become a problem.

I also believe it has to be the rear of the ejection port.

My AA16" tacical does that to. In fact, I shot 65 rounds last sunday. When I was cleaning my rifle, the shell deflector was completely gold! It looked like it had been dusted in gold flake. I think the cases are hitting the back of the ejection port and then sliding off of the shell deflector. And, 45 of those cases were "softer" loads (27 gr of 8208XBR with 123Amax bullets.)

I have the m16 bolt carrier and a vltor A5 buffer system (rifle weight); I think I'm way over gassed. I usually find my brass around the 4 o'clock position and up to 10' feet away! with a stock carbine weight buffer, I could feel the buffer bottoming out in the buffer tube.

I'm trying to figure what to do. I guess, I'll have to put an adjustable gas block on it, but I want to keep my A2 sight. JP makes a stainless A2 fsb with adjustbale gas flow, but it's about $120.
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#7
I put one of these on my Grendel. Added some of the soft part of the velcro to the inside of it at the areas wher brass would strike and have not had any denting issues since. Pretty easy fix for $15.00. And the brass does not kick out more than a foot. They are made for flattops and carry handle style AR's
Also, have one on my match AR in .223.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=18554...-DEFLECTOR
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#8
That would make sense. I have a smooth side DPMS upper, and I have never had that (I don't have the deflector)...
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#9
This problem is easily solved, by attaching a self adhering piece of velcro, available at hardware or grocery store, to the shell deflector.
Chas
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#10
coastguardchas Wrote:This problem is easily solved, by attaching a self adhering piece of velcro, available at hardware or grocery store, to the shell deflector.
Chas

OP: "I put velcro on the shell deflector but it didn't seem to make a difference. Could this be happening during extraction."

As mentioned, it's no big deal. Welcome Skunkworks1952. I have a design for embedding an elastomer strike face for brass deflectors that roots all the way to the trail edge of the ejection port, but I don't thin it's a big deal. The cases straighten out in the chamber when you apply 48,000-52,000 psi on them for some reason...
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#11
I use a spikes t2 carbine buffer and my brass comes out perfect and practically falls at my feet.... my bolt carrier is from young manufacturing which i also believe is heavier than standard. Bottom line; the extra weight slows it all down and the brass does not wind up in the next county and comes out unscathed.

Earlier i had tried the jp adjustable gad block but i found that the set screw would not stay and my gas would change. Poor design. I expected more from jp.... so the heavy buffer is the way to go.... bolt carrier too if need be.
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#12
Hi Gene: Did you also change the carbine spring or did you just use the one you had for the carbine buttstock?

Thanks for the help and further info.

Lee

PS- Have fun at your celebration shooting tomorrow.
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#13
fixed my dents w/308 buffer spring ,but mine is 24 in. w/ full lenngth gas
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#14
as much as adding weight to the buffer system or a stiffer spring may work, the best plan would be to reduce the gas flow....keeping the BCG cooler and cleaner.

What are the options for accomplishing this besides an adjustable gas block?
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#15
QuadCam Wrote:What are the options for accomplishing this besides an adjustable gas block?

Adjustable gas tubes are available.
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#16
GG, what stock are you running? I have a PRS (A2 buffer tube and buffer) and am wondering if the Spikes T2 would help me out as I am slinging brass WAY too far.

Grunt
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#17
i use an adjustable gas block from pri and i lock tited the set screw after having it adjusted properly. i have had no dents in any of my brass.
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#18
Leopard, i used the standard carbine spring; No mods of any kind.

Grunt, i have a standard carbine dpms buffer tube and use a magpul CTR stock...
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#19
Is there any difference in buffer requirement between a carbine and rifle buffer tube? Would a T2 work in a rifle, should I go lighter (because of the increased tube length)? I am running a standard DPMS rifle buffer currently.

Grunt
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#20
Grunt- the carbine and rifle each take their own length, order as carbine , or, rifle. I am going to try my H-2 carbine buffer - again, I've had it since 2008, when my upper- and my c-prod. mags, arrived. The first time at the range, with it all installed was a dud-==jamm , after jamm. I've since cured the mag issues, just forgot about tryin the H-2 lately. Christian- from the old ---Cavalry Arms,, recommended to try the H-2-3-Etc. for the Grrr. --- I went with Bill A's. advice- from his first website= keep the same spring & buffer -same as 5.56 build, as a first try. My gun is fine---yet I want to try a few buffers to see how it all changes anything-or nothing. BTW- my AA upper came with the heavier carrier=== equal length-top and bottom at the the rear section of the carrier.
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