Reload or sell my Grendel upper?

[Ronincjn]

Hello all,

I'll start with a little background; I purchased a PSA 18" Grendel upper a couple years back, with the intent to hunt pigs and deer here in California. I did this to utilize my AR-15 that spends most of its time collecting dust. I was premature with my purchase, I should of checked on lead-free ammo availability... Since I can not order online and zero stores around here carry non-lead grendel ammo, I decided hand-loading was the answer. Keep in mind I have ZERO experience reloading, I have read both Grendel handbooks as well as ABCs of Reloading and think I have a pretty good grasp of the concepts. I had acquired some old reloading equipment from my Grandfather, so I'm already ahead of the cost curve.

Here is the list of equipment I currently have:
- Herters press
- vintage lyman M5 beam scale
- vintage Lyman #55 powder measure
- L.E. Wilson case trimmer
- deburrring/chamfer tool
- primmer pocket tool
- a handful of various caliber RCBS dies

I have also purchased a few items already as well:
- RCBS hand primming tool
- Herters shell plate adapter
- Hornady 6.5 Grendel Dies
- federal 205 primers (200)
- H335 powder (1lb)

I would still require a few more pieces of equipment and material which I estimate will be around another $200. This does not include the purchase of a chrono either, which sounds like an important piece of equipment to have.

But I find myself wondering if this is really worth all the time and energy spent loading LFP for hunting or should I just sell the upper and buy a bolt-action 6.5 Creedmoor and cut my losses. Part of me really wants to try my hand at reloading, and I think I would eventually load 9mm and .223REM. But the other part of me knows that hand-loading for hunting takes time and resources, and is the juice really worth the squeeze.

Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks.

[Popeye212]

You are in big trouble. You already have a Grendel. That's one addiction for which there is no cure. If you start reloading your done for. I can probably count the number of factory shells I have bought in the last 30 years on one hand and maybe part of the other one (if I did it was for the brass). Shooting factory shells now feels like I am cheating on my wife... For me the reward and the results are more than worth it. I enjoy it and quality of ammo I produce. That, and you learn your weapon intimately and what it and your ammo will do.

[Grendelshooter]

On Cali, nah, not worth it.
It was hardly worth it when I lived there until last year, definitely not worth it now.
I reload and enjoy it but the simple fact is that anything AR related is a bitch.

Easiest way to hunt anything in Cali is get a 30-06 and buy copper ammo. Literally the only way you don’t have to worry about anything.

[Ronincjn]

Thanks for the input, you know what else I forgot to mention is I also have a model 99 in .300 savage. This gun would also require me to reload if I ever wanted to hunt with it in CA. This non-lead ammo deal is really a pain, almost makes we want to just stick with my bow 100% of the time.

[LRRPF52]

Given the direction CA is going, I would personally invest in having the capability to make your own ammo, no matter what the chambering is.

[grayfox]

I've got some good loads with the 100 gr ttsx, also there is now some Barnes 115 gr Tac-tx factory ammo.
Reloading is a rewarding hobby, I get more accurate loads with it. But it's your call as to whether you should get into it or not.
I've been doing reloading since the 70's and my first rifle, a 30-06 Springfield '03.
Shooting mostly 243/6mm and 6.5 mm's now (including Grendel) but still enjoying it a lot.

[grayfox]

Roger and +1 to '52's comment there. Retail ammo is getting harder and harder for you guys to get.

[Grendelshooter]

For Cali that’s a viable option (bow).
I just can’t imagine pig hunting with a grip fin or mag locked AR. Let alone in a caliber with no copper ammo.
I played with my Grendel and 5.56 guns for punching paper but used an old Win model 70 in 30-06 with irons on our ranch in Raymond for pigs. Luckily I got out of there.

[65GbySeven]

Reload! Best investment I've made with regard to hunting, shooting, etc. AND a great reason for a Do Not Disturb sign on the office door. Can't be interrupted while throwing powder...Although the girls like doing case prep.

When ammo went empty on the shelves, I made a couple hundred rounds to be extra safe.

Make your own ammo, more gratifying than building or buying another gun.

[Usmc1974]

When ammo went empty on the shelves, I made a couple hundred rounds to be extra

if there is any reason in this world to reload this is it. when the stores have no bullets/ammo you will. there's also something to barter with too.

[Ronincjn]

For Cali that’s a viable option (bow).
I just can’t imagine pig hunting with a grip fin or mag locked AR. Let alone in a caliber with no copper ammo.
I played with my Grendel and 5.56 guns for punching paper but used an old Win model 70 in 30-06 with irons on our ranch in Raymond for pigs. Luckily I got out of there.

Honestly the “mag lock” isn’t terrible I have the juggernaut tactical pin and I can switch mags fast. And I hope I don’t need more than 10 rounds to drop a pig. I also get all the “scary” features of a regular AR with the mag lock.

I've got some good loads with the 100 gr ttsx, also there is now some Barnes 115 gr Tac-tx factory ammo.
Reloading is a rewarding hobby, I get more accurate loads with it. But it's your call as to whether you should get into it or not.
I've been doing reloading since the 70's and my first rifle, a 30-06 Springfield '03.
Shooting mostly 243/6mm and 6.5 mm's now (including Grendel) but still enjoying it a lot.

The 100 gr ttsx is probably the LFP I will start with if I do decide to reload. I have had a hard time choosing which LFP to settle on. I was about to buy some of the 110gr CC from Lehigh, but decided the fracturing of the petals was not ideal. I also had my eye on the Fort Scott Munitions as well as the Nosler E-tip.

Given the direction CA is going, I would personally invest in having the capability to make your own ammo, no matter what the chambering is.

This really is important point to consider, and really might be a deciding factor for me.

[grayfox]

Several reports that the Lehigh's don't perform as advertised in the 6.5... there is a mfr called Maker bullets, they do the T-rex stuff.
And cavity back bullets has some stuff that might be worth a look.

[65GbySeven]

Several reports that the Lehigh's don't perform as advertised in the 6.5... there is a mfr called Maker bullets, they do the T-rex stuff.
And cavity back bullets has some stuff that might be worth a look.

The Lehigh 110 Copper Chaos projectiles perform well in my experience. The 95 Brass Chaos don't based on reviews I've read. Can't speak to their solids.

Just got 100 of the Maker's 95 TREX. Haven't hunted with them yet and will be trying the cavity Backs next.

[nawagner]

Keep reloading. It's worth it as stated for more than just the price. You can really dial in the best load for a specific gun. Your list looks like you've already got everything you need to keep you busy for a while. Sure a chrono is nice for advanced load developmet. I would say it is not critical for a beginner as long as you are developing loads that are within the published loads in a book or manufacturers online info you are fine. Learn to watch for over pressure signs and the like. You'll likely find a combo that works well in your guns and then you can stick to it without worrying about a chrono. I really don't see much else you need on your list and there are ways to be economic about reloading.

[FLshooter]

Reloading is hobby within itself. If you enjoy it ,of course it’s worth the time and effort.

[Ronincjn]

The more I hear from all of you, the more it makes me want to give this reloading a try! Thank you for all the insight.

Several reports that the Lehigh's don't perform as advertised in the 6.5... there is a mfr called Maker bullets, they do the T-rex stuff.
And cavity back bullets has some stuff that might be worth a look.

I don't believe the Maker Bullets are "Certified" non-lead for CA, but CBB are for sure. I have considered both of these as well, only reason I shy away from them is I haven't found much load data specifically for them. I have used the Hodgdon reload tool with a 107gr (in replacement for the 105gr MKZ) and H335 but I'm not sure that this load data would be acceptable to use, I don't have any experience to measure it up to. I guess that is what you all are for... I just need to ask more questions in this community instead of trying to figure it out all on my own.

[1Shot]

I also say since you already have most of what you need to hand load do it. I have been hand loading for over 40 years. The only factory ammo I have bought in YEARS has been 9mm FMJ pistol ammo because I got it for less than I could reload it for. I have bought some 20 gauge shotgun shells because I only hand load 12 gauge. I have bought 12 gauge buck shot 00 and #4. The only rifle ammo has been 100 rounds of Hornady 123 SST 6.5 Grendel and that was mainly to get the cases to hand load. One thing to be aware of is with the RCBS priming tool is you have to use RCBS shell holders that have the bevel on the underside with it. If it was me I would also be looking into moving out of CL.

[Chev2500]

I run the 99 Gr. all copper Hammer Hunter bullets in my 6.5 Gr. We don't have a lead free requirement here but I use the Hammer bullets in most of my hunting rifles because they perform very well, and shoot very small groups with minimal load development.
https://hammerbullets.com/product/264-ca...er-hunter/

[NugginFutz]

OP - why not visit Rickoshay's LFP thread, here: LFP Comment Thread

Much good stuff that is VERY relevant to your situation.

[Ronincjn]

OP - why not visit Rickoshay's LFP thread, here: LFP Comment Thread

Much good stuff that is VERY relevant to your situation.

Oh believe me I have spent a ton of time lurking around that thread.