Well I've been doing a lot of research and have decided on a few basic things and wanted to run them by everyone to get some opinions before I move on to other parts. I know everyone has their own views, especially with so many options in the AR category but I am open to all opinions. This will be a hunting/kill time at the range rifle. It will be scoped for it's life and only accessory may be a bi-pod.
If you have another suggestion I would be glad to hear it, even if it cost more money/time. I would rather spend more and be happy the first time than spending even more a few months later upgrading. Here we go...
Barrel: Yeah the hardest decision. I decided on 264 LBC and thinking 20" fluted. If I really wanted to order today without back-order wait the only option I see is this Satern at Midway and his own site of course.
http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/983264/...el-pre-ban
AR-Stoner also has some available but only in 16, 18, 24 non fluted barrels.
Like I said, I want this to be a one time build for this particular rifle, I would rather wait/spend what I need to get it done right so let me know your opinions even if it is a 6 month wait.
Upper: I was suggested to get a raised optics platform since this rifle will always have a scope on it and never taken off? Yes/No? Raised platforms I found...
Rock River Forged EOP (elevated optical platform) Upper Receiver
DPMS Hi-Rider
Lower: I'm still open on this one but I know 4 guys with AR's around here and they all 4 have DPMS lowers. I will also be getting a custom trigger from the local gunsmith.
Stock: It seems 9/10 builds I have seen have a Magpul Prs Stock so they must be comfortable and work well. 
Grip: Ergo tactical w/ palm rest.
Handguard: Let me know your favorite, there are so many. Like I said, probably only a bi-pod so no need to go for an excessive picatinny rail handguard.
Well that's just a few things out of the 30 bookmarks I have, I think I got all the basics. Thanks for any replies! Remember, no matter the price/wait, I want to hear suggestions.
I think you and I pretty much have the save idea for a rifle... You can see in my profile pic that I have a different setup, but the next is going to be almost exactly like you have.
(Mine is a grendel, but this is about the build...)
First off, the barrel. I have an AR Stoner (cheapest/highest rating). I went with a 18" so I can use it for hunting as well as target shooting. It's proved to be excellent. First rounds down the barrel were touching at 100 (Hornady Factory Ammo). The only caution with the AR Stoner is watch the threads if you get threaded. They have a weird thread on it, and only accept their brakes. You can re-thread it, but why??? I went with a 360 degree heli-brake, and I have never shot it without one, but I like it.
For the upper, I don't have an elevation on mine. You can either go with what I have in the picture and get an AR P.E.P.R from Burris and that will raise it up and push it forward for you (very nice and rugged). I have a few sitting around if you want to PM me... However, with my current set up, I traded the scope in the pic for a Vortex PST and used their rings. It's a 50mm bell on it, and sits just mm above the rail (had to cut the scope cover to slip it on...) I like it that way as I have really high cheek bones, so I sit really close to the stock anyway.
You can't go wrong with a PRS, so you are good there.
I have a DPMS lower on mine, absolutely love it. I have a JP adjustable single stage in mine, and I would not do it again. Don't get me wrong, it's great, but I would much rather have the Timney drop in trigger. I have heard excellent things about it and would go that direction instead. They have 3lb and 4lb models, and are super consistent and reliable.
I prefer the Hogue overmold grip, as I have big ole monkey paws and don't like the palm rest (got one on my Savage BAS). I don't mind it, but it's not preferred.
I went with Yankee Hill Machine handguards, and they are super light, not expensive, and extremely durable. Easy to install and they have been great for me.
If you want current pics of what I have with details, let me know and I can get some for you. (PM me)
I like that P.E.P.R, that opens a lot more options on the upper as well, I'd be very interested, I will send a PM when I'm ready to start ordering parts.
It seems the Timney trigger is very popular, I might give it a shot and get the other from my gunsmith as well for a second option or another build.
I have fairly small hands is why I chose that grip, the picture does seem to show it is small which would work perfect for me.
I will take a look at those handguards right now.
Thank you very much for your reply, Sniper20. (PM Sent)
I would hold off on the Timney trigger, try one first before buying. I put one in my Grendel and it has more creep than I think it should. I expected better out of a $200 trigger, although for hunting it's acceptable.
Oh wow, didn't realize they were $200, haven't had time to look them up yet. Yeah the custom trigger from the shop here is a reasonable price and built by a guy around here. I know 3 people using it and they are all happy with it, pretty light trigger as well.
Roger that on the Timney, unfortunately, I was very disappointed when I pulled one. If you want the best 2-stage on the market right now, Geissele is the trigger to get, and they have several. You'll see what I mean when you try one, definitely.
Barrel: If you are only going to shoot handloads, the .264 LBC chamber might be ok for you, but too many people have had issues with them and factory ammo that is well within spec. The Grendel chamber is the way to go, so I would personally have it cut to one or made that way from the start like Satern used to, since they make super-accurate pipes, that easily print sub-1/2 groups with the right loads. I would stay away from button-rifled pipes if you want accuracy guarantee at 3/4 MOA or less.
Lowers are lowers, and DPMS doesn't make their own, as most don't, so it hardly matters. I go with the best deals in that case, which lately have been with Palmetto State Armory when they offer their $49.95 specials on them...can't beat that, and they are excellent lowers with a great anodized finish that looks a lot better than many others I've seen.
I would still suggest a standard M4 upper, or a beefier billet version with a standard-height flat top. This will make your optics mount selection easier, especially if you feel the need to start stretching the gun's legs and need a 20 MOA cant base. Look at LaRue, ADM, DTA for those mounts.
If all you will use is a bipod, a plane Jane free-float tube will do you well, but for hunting, if you are carrying the stick around, you might want a sling. I really like the APEX Machining tube for the requirements you have stated, and they are $183, with built-in QD sling swivel sockets and no rails all over the place, but with plenty of ventilation. I have all the different types of handguards, and I also prefer streamlined tubes, with options if I need them. Another option, if money is not an issue, and the one I would seriously lean to with big pockets is the Mega billet set, with their monolithic upper receiver/tubular free float handguard that is one piece, matched to their lower.
I would focus your buying power on quality components as you seem to intend, ensuring a competent assembly of the rifle, and really focus on a quality trigger, optics and mount. I would also account for ammunition, reloading, and other components in that regard, that end up costing much more than the firearm, at least in my experience.
Thanks very much for the info!
I'll take a look at the Geissele trigger.
I was reading about the ammo problems on the forum with the 264 LBC but I do plan on using handloads. I have not completely thrown the Grendel out right now but from what I am reading people are very satisfied with their 264 LBC using handloads and not quite as much wait time on the barrel as the Grendel.
If I am given enough pro's over the 264 LBC I might reconsider going back to a Grendel build, especially since I am going to go ahead and wait and not rush the build I will have plenty of time to go ahead and order a barrel even on a 6 month wait.
I have 5 jewel triggers on most of my ar variants and like them.I have 1 chip mccormick on my ar-10 and it has slight creep,but as you shoot it ,it gets better with break in.The other thing I would do is get a matched set of upper and lower for a tight fit so you dont have to rely on an accuwedgeto tighten the upper to lower fit.I would look at a shilen match barrel and bolt assy and see if they can chamber a barrel for you. The prs is a go,but it adds weight to the build.The hand guard is a yankee hill or hogue as it is insulated with a rubber coating on the outside and can be modified by your smith to mount a sling or bipod or both. Really try to find someone with a jewell and try it.
The PRS stock is great, but heavy. I love mine, but I don't carry it far. If you are going to tote it far while hunting, you might want to consider that.
Raised mount, is usually not a good idea, you want the scope as close to the barrel as possible. On a flat top AR that's gets you into a real uncomfortable body position unless you move the eyepiece to the charging handle or further forward.
When you move your head forward to get within the eye relief of the scope it also naturally drops down to the right height in a comfortable position.
Some guys like to put their nose on the charging handle so they can get their head position and cheek weld exactly the same each time they fire.
You may need a cantilever scope mount to accomplish this, depending on what scope you use. That way you can mount the scope on the upper's rail only. You don't want to crossover to the rail on the hand guard with your scope mount.
The LaRue LT104 is an example that is very good. If you do long range shooting (beyond 600 yards) the LT158 from LaRue has 10 MOA of down angle built in. This gives you way more clicks up than down when you zero the scope, which you'll need at long range.
Good Luck on the build!
RR
Yeah the gunsmith I will be getting my parts through has some shilen barrels on his personal guns and loves them. Now that I am not rushing the build I have many options besides the Saturn/AR Stoner that are available for immediate delivery.
As for weight it is not a huge deal to me. Even if it was a cannon and I walked 5 miles with it, it would be nothing compared to the work I do all day.
Yeah... well, all this time I have had to keep researching I find myself looking at the more expensive items available. I'm now looking into the side charging uppers *face palm* which brings me back down to a limited option on uppers.
I just need to stop and focus on the barrel tomorrow, get that ordered and checked off. I'll more than likely have 2-6 months to think about everything else while the barrel is on backorder. Thanks for the reply!
ive said this b4 check out cmc triggers the r out of tx and nice self contained units no set screws to come loose ...and there is almost no wait time on loki uppers
http://www.cmctriggers.com/ ive meet the guys which makes a big difference and they fell better then most i have used and we use giessley alot so justa option and i love my prs as well if this is going to be a hunting rifler id go 18" barrel and like a ace stock ..no raised rail imo
Buying a raised platform, then scope rings, costs more than simply buying high rings...However, it you need the extended length of a longer picatinny rail, then it may be cost effective to buy a longer raised platform.
An update: I highly recommend the Templar lowers, especially since they are on sale for $65. Here is what makes them different than others, which I recently discovered...
1) They have a generously funneled mag well, and are clearly made from very hard 7075 aluminum.
2) They have a captivated take-down pin detent channel with a small set screw, making stock removal a snap.
http://templarcustom.com/products/receivers
Nice, hopefully some will be left Sunday when I have time to make decisions. Getting slammed at work but that's good I guess, gun won't pay for itself.
jonbearman Wrote:I have 5 jewel triggers on most of my ar variants and like them.I have 1 chip mccormick on my ar-10 and it has slight creep,but as you shoot it ,it gets better with break in.The other thing I would do is get a matched set of upper and lower for a tight fit so you dont have to rely on an accuwedgeto tighten the upper to lower fit.I would look at a shilen match barrel and bolt assy and see if they can chamber a barrel for you. The prs is a go,but it adds weight to the build.The hand guard is a yankee hill or hogue as it is insulated with a rubber coating on the outside and can be modified by your smith to mount a sling or bipod or both. Really try to find someone with a jewell and try it.
I have I think 3 Jewell triggers on my varients and like you like them. I especially like the eazy way you can adjust the weight of pull. I have one Giessele and cannot tell much difference in it and the Jewell.
|
