Cool Video on Cerakote

[montana]

If nothing on a firearm is loc-tite shut like the barrel nut to the upper receiver, dis assembly is not too bad. It is a good time to up grade any parts if a person decides to Cerakote. It is important to degrease as I missed a spot on a camouflage hand guard I spent a lot of time on and had to sandblast and start over. Cerakote will not adhere to any oil contaminated parts. Used Glock pistols frames and AR ejection covers seem to hold on to oil like my wife holds on to our savings. I have seen AR rifles that were Cerakoted only on the outside and I didn't care for the look. I would spend the extra time and disassemble it and do it right if it was my rifle.

[Variable]

Okay, thanks for the advice guys.

I've blasted and helped blue/park stuff at my buddy's shop before, I know what you mean about oil wicking out of crevices.

I could do it myself over at my buddy's place, but it's been almost impossible to get over there for a good while due to work and scheduling conflicts.

Maybe I could just have someone cerakote it FDE, and then apply the other colors as just paint over the cerakote. That way if I screw up the paint/pattern, I could remove it and then repaint again over the cerakote.

[biodsl]

Maybe I could just have someone cerakote it FDE, and then apply the other colors as just paint over the cerakote. That way if I screw up the paint/pattern, I could remove it and then repaint again over the cerakote.

I like this idea Variable. This approach also would allow you to adjust you're camo pattern and colors to your area of operations. Frank used this approach in a Hide video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9YDCpbo...detailpage

[sneaky one]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6959[/ATTACH]Hmmmm,, after an acetone bath-wipedown, some sprays with non chlorinated brake cleaner-- it leaves no residue, same as acetone.- All went well after the mini sandblast gun let loose upon the items to be coated.

Then another blasting with aerosol brake cleaner, wipe it quick- then spray it with compressed air----Clean air! Make sure its dry dry.

Wait for a bit- fire it up! 2 thin coats are fine. Just enuff to cover, as needed. Less is more.

[montana]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6959[/ATTACH]Hmmmm,, after an acetone bath-wipedown, some sprays with non chlorinated brake cleaner-- it leaves no residue, same as acetone.- All went well after the mini sandblast gun let loose upon the items to be coated.

Then another blasting with aerosol brake cleaner, wipe it quick- then spray it with compressed air----Clean air! Make sure its dry dry.

Wait for a bit- fire it up! 2 thin coats are fine. Just enuff to cover, as needed. Less is more.

Interesting way to prop up your upper to Cerakote. It turned out great Sneaky.

[sneaky one]

Thanks montana.

Make sure that tape is on the rod ends that go into muzzle- and receiver. Think rotisserie. Easy stuff.

I may do all my AR's now, with this cool paint.

[Variable]

Looks like a good way to do it.

I like the color too.

[sneaky one]

Thanks, Vari. I'll camo it a bit next year, after I find a subtle pattern.

[am4966]

After you cerakote a base coat and it fully cures, That you will not be able to apply cerakote since it won't take or stick. Or what ever you want to call it when you do more b then one layer

[The Profit Joseph Sith]

Or you could be doing this alot, would be perfectly suited... Hopefully link works im on a mobile.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6lG-snJZIV8

Just a little pertinent background on me. I have worked as a professional painter for years, for both residential interior/exterior (doesn't count) but counter tops bathtubs/surrounds tiles etc., 3 years as a bodyman/prepper painter for automotive industry. And did a little painting surface CIC corrosion inhibiting while working at Boeing Everett on the 787 as a electrician and mechanic. Which mainly pertains to certified cleaning and prep of substrates for processes like bond and ground, wet install fastener, cic (alodine) and re applying primers and paints removed to perform operations on aluminum, Corrosion resistant S.S.(CRES), and carbon fiber. Im no expert, but i have a very good foundation and am pretty comfortable in the coatings field.

I'd actually like to do semi pro home cerakote tutorial. I have some ideas id like to bounce off people here and get some feedback. I think other will agree the hardest part of cerakoting is the degrease and the oven for those of us who dont have the money or space really for a normal oven which in most cases isn't large enough for some barrelled actions anyway...

I have a hunch the oven will be somewhat easy and cheap (compared to commercial $800 ovens) for those with a welder and angle grinder. Take two steel drums weld them end to end (length wise) cut the top, or clamshell them to drop in or hang parts. This might sound a little shady but buy some harbor frieght heat guns (with warranty) and blow them in top or bottom across parts again length wise and out opposite end. Of course you'd want a filter the incoming air for particulates. And IF needed or more efficient. Buy some cheap crock pots from the thrift stores to disect and wrap the NiCr wires insulated with fibreglass sleeves around the oven body since its not insulated. If anyone beats me to this project I'd LOVE to know how it works or any good input is welcome.

Where I'm out of my depth would be the degreasing tank. If any of you have seen the shooting gallery episode i think it was where they toured the NIC/ cerakote facility. They don't just rinse (or soak) the parts in solvent, they use a professional heated solvent tank. And probably even a step above that would be a vapor (vapour?) Degreaser.

I'm curious if it would also be possible to buy some large serving trays from Costco cut the one end off each and tig weld them together to make a long SS tank and use the same method i mentioned above using a surplus crock pot rheostat/controller and heating element. This would pretty much HAVE to have a lid as it would evap. Very quickly in the case of hot solvents like acetone.
Another method of heating might be a good ol' fashioned scientific hotplate/stirrer. Bonus points if you can stir the solution!
The last method im kinda apprehensive to even suggest is a heated ultrasonic tank. Just used with heat not ultrasonic as i would be worried this would be TOO exciting!

Any ideas, pointers, pointers, cautions?

I'm sure like alot of you, i could either spend thousands to pay someone else to do it and only paint half your collection. Or pay thousands to buy the equipment if your fully capable. Or pay MAYBE a few hundred and spend the rest on colors and product.

Also for those interested, email NIC/Cerakote. They are a awesome co. Both in products and service. They will send anyone a bunch of free swatches many times over they make sure your well informed before you make decisions. You can also do destructive tests on these as well. (Very durable)

One last question...and this will probably seem weird aksed here but since im on the topic. Has anyone cerakoted between steel tensioned parts such as between AK trunnions before assembly? I've hammered the aluminum swatches with ball peen hammer (ball end) and seem to do insanely well given the alum deforms and peens out the sides but even then the surface bond seems to hold. Steel shoukdnt have this isshe at all. I'd prefer to coat everything inside snd out because i do all my own work and can take as much time as i need. My main concern (esp. With a PSL, AK,Saiga12) is that over 10-20k rounds of flexing between those parts it will break down, the ceramics (solids) with seperate from the polymers and retain moister and actually end up doing the opposite of what i intended which is to prevent corrosion where i cant get to it.