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Cool Video on Cerakote
#1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlUwOR4Tq10

[video]http://youtu.be/YlUwOR4Tq10[/video]
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO

CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor

6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:

www.AR15buildbox.com
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#2
Wow that's incredible. I knew Cerakote helped prevent corrosion but I had no idea it was that great!

After seeing the phosphate carrier and key disintegrate, I'm wondering if you can Cerakote your carrier? Any tolerance concerns? Bolt as well?
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#3
If you're doing a high wear component, such as a BCG or the inside of your upper, then use Micro-Slick. Regular Cerakote will gall in high wear areas that are subject to surface friction between articulating parts.

[Image: db_file_img_3614_575xauto.jpg]
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO

CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor

6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:

www.AR15buildbox.com
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#4
i had my KAC carrier done in microslick. gotta say, it is pretty damn smooth....
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#5
Ok, i will be the devils advocate.

When i get ready to go to the beach and swim for 84.75 days with my gun around my neck i will get it cerakoted first.

I just don't get everyones concern for corrosion. I am willing to bet none of us will ever be in a situation where we expose our gun to 84.75 days of salt water without wiping it down with some sort of petro.
Knowing everthing isnt as important as knowing where to find it.

Mark Twain

http://www.65grendel.com/forum/showthrea...-Whitetail
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#6
rabiddawg Wrote:Ok, i will be the devils advocate.

When i get ready to go to the beach and swim for 84.75 days with my gun around my neck i will get it cerakoted first.

I just don't get everyones concern for corrosion. I am willing to bet none of us will ever be in a situation where we expose our gun to 84.75 days of salt water without wiping it down with some sort of petro.

Boating accidents happen all the time....
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We either hang together on this, or we'll certainly HANG separately.....
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#7
rabiddawg Wrote:Ok, i will be the devils advocate.

When i get ready to go to the beach and swim for 84.75 days with my gun around my neck i will get it cerakoted first.

I just don't get everyones concern for corrosion. I am willing to bet none of us will ever be in a situation where we expose our gun to 84.75 days of salt water without wiping it down with some sort of petro.

You could be a deep sea diver and forget that it's slung on your back while welding oil rigs...

Doesn't take long for pitting to show up on the inside of your barrel if out in the weeds, mist and rain for a bit.
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#8
Klem Wrote:Doesn't take long for pitting to show up on the inside of your barrel if out in the weeds, mist and rain for a bit.

Cant cerakote the inside of your barrel.

Guess I'm weird, I like black and silver, black on black. Not much on camo or other colors on guns.

The saltiest my guns see is the palm of my hand and i wipe them down periodically. I just don't see the need for more protection.
Knowing everthing isnt as important as knowing where to find it.

Mark Twain

http://www.65grendel.com/forum/showthrea...-Whitetail
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#9
Variable Wrote:Boating accidents happen all the time....
Yeah, but isn't that how you lose a gunWink

Or so I'm told.

No doubt it is a tough coating.

Good night folks.
Knowing everthing isnt as important as knowing where to find it.

Mark Twain

http://www.65grendel.com/forum/showthrea...-Whitetail
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#10
I have used Cerakote Micro-Slick on my last 3 builds on both the carriers and the inside of the uppers. It is great stuff. It is a lot of work and preparation to do correctly but I love Cerakote. Another great fact about Cerakote is after you Cerakote your firearm you can paint over it with regular paint like all white for winter camouflage and come spring just wipe the paint off with acetone.
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#11
rabiddawg Wrote:Ok, i will be the devils advocate.

When i get ready to go to the beach and swim for 84.75 days with my gun around my neck i will get it cerakoted first.

I just don't get everyones concern for corrosion. I am willing to bet none of us will ever be in a situation where we expose our gun to 84.75 days of salt water without wiping it down with some sort of petro.

Or you might end up in one of my Winter courses.....

[Image: IMG_6841_zpscwodbgfm.jpg]

[Image: IMG_7321_zpsd5bf3e0l.jpg]

For me and my needs, there are very legitimate demands for Cerakote, and I wish we could have had all of our equipment coated with it in the military. The time it would have saved on machinegun spare barrels alone would exceed its weight in gold, never mind tripods, M16's, M4's, etc.

Here's one of the guy's rifles after that course in February:

[Image: 5E38FDD3-CC32-4660-8F14-9B844C73CD18.jpg]

[Image: CCDD67B3-594E-4444-8719-CD637716176C.jpg]

It's now fully Cerakoted FDE, to include the steel screws on the handguard, scope mount, rings, LPK external small parts like pin heads, selector, mag release, etc.
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO

CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor

6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:

www.AR15buildbox.com
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#12
[Image: EE461F51-1306-41CD-B103-BF0727AE0F12.jpg]
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO

CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor

6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:

www.AR15buildbox.com
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#13
Holy ball sack
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#14
Wow, what yall got in the water out there? I have had guns out in wet weather and never had a problem like that. They fo get wiped off back at the camp.

When i was a kid I had a Remington 1100 spend the night under water after a boat accident and it faired better than the gun in those photos. The blueing held up fine. The only permant damage was the stock cracked a bit from swelling.
Knowing everthing isnt as important as knowing where to find it.

Mark Twain

http://www.65grendel.com/forum/showthrea...-Whitetail
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#15
I assume to paint one and do it right, each and every piece has to be removed and painted separately?

How do you keep from cracking the finish when torquing the screws down or driving in pins?
Knowing everthing isnt as important as knowing where to find it.

Mark Twain

http://www.65grendel.com/forum/showthrea...-Whitetail
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#16
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1Z_Zv2ue-w
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#17
rabiddawg Wrote:Wow, what yall got in the water out there? I have had guns out in wet weather and never had a problem like that. They fo get wiped off back at the camp.

When i was a kid I had a Remington 1100 spend the night under water after a boat accident and it faired better than the gun in those photos. The blueing held up fine. The only permant damage was the stock cracked a bit from swelling.

Probably salt, and you will end up in a corrosion situation eventually.

Where I live near the coast insurance premiums go up if you live 1.5km or closer to the beach. Salt in the air will eventually corrode everything that is unprotected. Zerust corrosion management vapour capsules are a popular addition to firearm cabinets here. Brownells sells corrosion tabs for smaller containers and you see them sometimes in manufacturer boxes like dies. If you are going to cache anything underground for the long term don't use metal boxes like ammo liners.

The inside of barrels are a corrosion magnet, especially non stainless barrels. Fire a few function/check-zero rounds prior to leaving your holding area and head out into the bush. The carbon now on the inside of the barrel soon attracts moisture in a humid environment. It then becomes a dilemma as to whether to go out with the accuracy and reliability of a fouled barrel or oiled with no function test. You can even swim with your gun as long as the optics and ammo are sealed and you let all the water out of the barrel before pulling the trigger. But, spend a few days and nights out in the rain...
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#18
rabiddawg Wrote:I assume to paint one and do it right, each and every piece has to be removed and painted separately?

How do you keep from cracking the finish when torquing the screws down or driving in pins?

I'm wondering what would happen if you took a complete rifle and just degreased it well externally, then went ahead and sprayed it. I'm not overly concerned with the corrosion resistance, I just want a durable camouflage that'll look decent.
Life member NRA, SAF, GOA, WVSRPA (and VFW). Also member WVCDL. Join NOW!!!!!
We either hang together on this, or we'll certainly HANG separately.....
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#19
Variable Wrote:I'm wondering what would happen if you took a complete rifle and just degreased it well externally, then went ahead and sprayed it. I'm not overly concerned with the corrosion resistance, I just want a durable camouflage that'll look decent.

The oil inside will seep towards the degreased outside, and will not support a durable finish. You want to sandblast with aluminum oxide or sand with large grit the surface to get a good purchase of the Cerakote.

This is why I prefer to start with new parts, which I still wash, blast or sand, then acetone bathe, then coat. I just built a new spray booth yesterday that will make things easier on me.
NRA Basic, Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, RSO

CCW, CQM, DM, Long Range Rifle Instructor

6.5 Grendel Reloading Handbooks & chamber brushes can be found here:

www.AR15buildbox.com
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#20
Variable Wrote:I'm wondering what would happen if you took a complete rifle and just degreased it well externally, then went ahead and sprayed it. I'm not overly concerned with the corrosion resistance, I just want a durable camouflage that'll look decent.

You would be AMAZED at how hard it can be to get oil out of parts. We degrease, aluminum oxide blast, acetone bathe, then heat to 250 degrees, then recheck for any grease or oil. The current record is 7 rewashes on a shotgun receiver.
”You seek escape from pain. We seek the achievement of happiness. You exist for the sake of avoiding punishment. We exist for the sake of earning rewards. Threats will not make us function; fear is not our incentive. It is not death that we wish to avoid, but life that we wish to live.” - John Galt
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