08-17-2014, 06:16 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-17-2014, 06:22 AM by Wheelhorse.)
I would like to try if I may, to put into words what I think is going on when moving the barrel nut on our beloved rifles.
When using the reaction rod, all the torque necessary to turn the barrel nut is confined directly in the threads and the nut, and I stand by my statement that the receiver is not stressed except in that area.
With the clamshell block the torque necessary to turn the nut, must all be transmitted through the receiver until the barrel nut does what you want, and this is how they get damaged. Transmitting this through the receiver doesn't lessen this torque in anyway as suggested, because it still must be created for the nut to move, and the weakest link is what breaks.
I really see no reason to tighten these to the upper end of the specs anyway. If something bad is gonna happen, that's probably where it will happen at.
I usually pull them to around 40 ft lbs and if it's pretty far from the gas tube hole lining up, I lap a little material from the face of the receiver and recheck until everything lines up at a torque value I'm comfortable with.
BTW, with the Brownel's tool, the torque wrench is connected at the exact center of the tool so the reading indicated will be correct, unlike a torque wrench connected away from the center as on a armorers tool.
Thats about all I can think of, hopefully some of it is correct.
When using the reaction rod, all the torque necessary to turn the barrel nut is confined directly in the threads and the nut, and I stand by my statement that the receiver is not stressed except in that area.
With the clamshell block the torque necessary to turn the nut, must all be transmitted through the receiver until the barrel nut does what you want, and this is how they get damaged. Transmitting this through the receiver doesn't lessen this torque in anyway as suggested, because it still must be created for the nut to move, and the weakest link is what breaks.
I really see no reason to tighten these to the upper end of the specs anyway. If something bad is gonna happen, that's probably where it will happen at.
I usually pull them to around 40 ft lbs and if it's pretty far from the gas tube hole lining up, I lap a little material from the face of the receiver and recheck until everything lines up at a torque value I'm comfortable with.
BTW, with the Brownel's tool, the torque wrench is connected at the exact center of the tool so the reading indicated will be correct, unlike a torque wrench connected away from the center as on a armorers tool.
Thats about all I can think of, hopefully some of it is correct.