12-13-2013, 03:03 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-13-2013, 04:29 AM by NugginFutz.)
customcutter Wrote:The only area that the lapping tool should be removing the anodizing is where the shoulder on the tool contacts the front of the threaded section. As stated earlier see LRRPF52's pic.
True story - it bears emphasizing that you are ONLY lapping the RIM of the threaded portion of your upper, not the interior. My somewhat wordy previous response was intended to help dave set aside his concerns about the tool doing any damage, elsewhere in the upper.
Klem Wrote:Lastly, I'm going out on a limb here to suggest you might consider not using a muzzle device at all. Pay particular attention to the crown and protect it religiously from damage and crud. If you screw on a muzzle device it tends to build crud quicker than not and this will affect accuracy. Consider having the barrel re-crowned if at all in doubt down the track, it's not a big job. You can even buy a hand crown reamer from Pacific Tool and Gauge with it's own pilot guide and do it yourself.
I hope there's room on that limb for more than one. I have brakes or flash hiders on all but one of my AR's. Guess which one I've never had to de-crud the muzzle on? While the brakes make for less recoil, I seriously doubt the 6.5 would be much more fatiguing to shoot without it, if at all.
I am seriously considering having my 22" threaded barrel cut down to 20 or 21, and putting a target crown on it My only regret is I won't be able to cut it to 21 3/4".