09-19-2013, 01:53 AM
LR1955 Wrote:Joker:
I moved the thread so it isn't your head injury.
Your math is fine. Now, round the numbers and put to memory the distances for 3 and 2 mils (300 and 500). Easy enough. I doubt you will be shooting animals at 5000 meters without your M-1 Tank.
Doctrinally, a mil is 3.375 minutes. I round it up to 3.5 minutes for speed.
Almost all modern small arms ammunition has basically the same trajectory to 300 yards and almost the same to 500 yards.
Although I don't know the velocity of your 123 SST load, my bet is that your come ups will look very close to the following.
100 - 200 = 1 1/2 minutes
200 - 300 = 2 1/2 minutes
300 - 400 = 3 1/2 minutes
400 - 500 = 4 minutes
So, you can convert minutes to mils by dividing the come ups by 3.375. For example, your come up between 300 and 400 would be one mil.
I imagine you want to use the mil reticle for holds. Figure out your zeroing elevation first. My advice is to zero at the nearest 100 yards to the distance you expect to get a shot. Then make your table.
Keep your table simple -- no more than three holds and keep your holds at increments of no less than 1/4 mil.
36 inches is a pretty big kill zone. There are a couple of different ways of approaching it but you need to figure out what you can remember and implement when excited.
No animal will be 36 inches, it is almost impossible to mil anything that is moving or when your rife is moving. Depending on the reticle pattern, you might be able to discern increments under 1/4 mil but trying to remember what they are is difficult. If you take your eyes off the target to refer to a cheat sheet, chances are you will find you can't read the cheat sheet because it is either to dark out, the writing is too small, or the writing has been destroyed by the elements. And when you raise your eyes to find your game again, it has moved. Memorize one or two holds based on your expected engagement ranges and use them.
The more a guy tries to wargame these things, the greater becomes the potential that he will make a big mistake somewhere along the way.
LR1955
i think you may have mixed up minutes and mils in your drop estimate
123 sst calculated at 2400fps
Range Drop Drop Windage Windage Velocity Mach Energy Time Lead Lead
(yd) (MOA) (mil) (MOA) (mil) (ft/s) (none) (ft•lbs) (s) (MOA) (mil)
0 *** *** *** *** 2405.6 2.155 1580.3 0.000 *** ***
100 -0.0 -0.0 0.8 0.2 2239.6 2.006 1369.7 0.129 21.7 6.3
200 -2.6 -0.8 1.6 0.5 2080.0 1.863 1181.4 0.268 22.5 6.6
300 -6.0 -1.8 2.5 0.7 1927.3 1.726 1014.3 0.418 23.4 6.8
400 -10.0 -2.9 3.4 1.0 1781.8 1.596 867.0 0.580 24.4 7.1
500 -14.4 -4.2 4.4 1.3 1644.5 1.473 738.5 0.755 25.4 7.4
600 -19.5 -5.7 5.5 1.6 1516.4 1.358 627.9 0.945 26.5 7.7
700 -25.1 -7.3 6.7 1.9 1398.8 1.253 534.3 1.151 27.6 8.0
800 -31.5 -9.2 7.9 2.3 1293.5 1.159 456.9 1.375 28.9 8.4
900 -38.7 -11.2 9.2 2.7 1202.2 1.077 394.6 1.615 30.2 8.8
1000 -46.7 -13.6 10.5 3.1 1126.5 1.009 346.5 1.874 31.5 9.2
also i would range whitetail from biscuit to back because if it is standing in the grass you will be guessing at the ground height similarly with humans it is best to mil from crotch to head as one meter as most height variation is in the legs
also the calculation is easier if you measure target in yards..
(height in yards/mil)*1000= distance in yards and since your multiplying by 1000 you can just move the decimal 3 places which is easier to do in your head compaird to multiplying by 27.78
so assuming a 18 inch chest on a deer which is 0.5 yards
(.5 yards hieght/ 5mils)=.1 *1000= 100 yards
(.5 yards/4mils)=.125*1000= 125 yards ...
using deer chest
5 mils=100 yards
4 mils=125
3 mils=166
2.5 mils=200
2 mils=250
1.5 mils=333
1 mill=500
honestly past 300 you are getting to the point where exact yardage is becoming more and more important if you want to shoot at deer past that i would recommend a rangefinder and a nice scope with zero lock and good repeatable turrets
Punctuation is for the weak....