michaelmew Wrote:I am brand new to reloading and I have a couple of questions.
I've got a good friend who has several presses that I can use. One is a single stage and another one is a progressive (Lee I think). My friend has a lot of experience reloading pistol calibers, but not much with rifles (as far as I know).
Just before the old site went down, I bought Redding Type S bushing dies for my 6.5 Grendel. I've got a couple hundred once fired cases from Hornady. Assuming he has all the generic equipment, what else do I need to buy equipment wise?
I plan on doing 90% target shooting up to 400yds. I might develop loads for hog hunting and whitetail hunting. So, which bullet/powder/primer combo would you reccomend for a starting point?
Lastly, neither one of us has a chronograph. How important is this piece of equipment?
Any advice is also greatly appreciated. Thanks
-michaelmew
MM:
120 Sierra Match King, TAC or 2520. I believe the Hornady brass uses large rifle primers. Use the CCI-200 or Wolf Large Rifle Primer and you will be fine. I tend towards 28 - 28 1/2 grains of TAC or 30 - 30 1/2 of 2520. The 120 SMK is very forgiving about things like bullet jump and doesn't require much testing to find an ideal overall length. Use the length Alexander recommends or go by ensuring the bullet can both seat in the magazine and stay off of the lands.
You will not see any advantage to a VLD bullet (123 Sierra or Lapua) at 400 yards over the 120 Match King and they cost more money. 107 Sierra's and 108 Lapuas are as problematic in getting them to shoot consistently well as the 123 Lapua and 123 Sierra. You don't need to spend the money on a 140 for that distance either. Waste of money with no advantage.
As for a chronograph -- not necessary unless you really get into the science. If you do want to buy a chronograph, my advice is to spend the money on a very good one. I use a CED with IR lighting for sky screens and it does what I need without an iota of a problem due to light conditions.
At your stage of the game though, you ought to look at a decent press, powder scale, measure, and the other things that allow you to endure the boredom of handloading without becoming totally stupified. I would not advise you to get a progressive unless you know exactly what to focus your attention on at every stage and know 'what right looks like' at every stage. Once you get to the stage where you can more fully understand the advantages / disadvantages and risks involved with a progressive, then you have learned enough to inform your decision on brand and features.
Oh yes, you don't always have to spend top dollar on reloading equipment. It is pretty hard to damage a thirty pound steel reloading press and used ones are about half the price of new ones. OTOH, it is real easy to damage a plastic and aluminum reloading press so less is not necessarily better.
LR1955