10-04-2012, 03:36 PM
It doesn't have to, especially for a gun that isn't being run on high-volume, like a 3-gun blaster, unless that's what you need.
You can either dimple it, or use red loc-tite when fastening the gas block to the barrel. You should be using red loc-tite for the set screws on a set-screw gas block anyway.
What I do, and it's a pain, is check for fit of the block to the barrel and journal, then check for a gas circuit with air. The gas block then is pulled off, and loc-tited if there isn't a dimple. On my 16" AA Grendel, I use a clamp-on adjustable gas block, and have never had issues with it. My gun simply runs. It has an APEX rifle-length handguard that fits easily over my gas block, however.
For your case, you probably need loc-tite, which should not be introduced into the gas port. Degrease the snot out of your barrel and gas block, the screws, and proceed, or have a competent smith who knows AR's perform the work for you.
You can either dimple it, or use red loc-tite when fastening the gas block to the barrel. You should be using red loc-tite for the set screws on a set-screw gas block anyway.
What I do, and it's a pain, is check for fit of the block to the barrel and journal, then check for a gas circuit with air. The gas block then is pulled off, and loc-tited if there isn't a dimple. On my 16" AA Grendel, I use a clamp-on adjustable gas block, and have never had issues with it. My gun simply runs. It has an APEX rifle-length handguard that fits easily over my gas block, however.
For your case, you probably need loc-tite, which should not be introduced into the gas port. Degrease the snot out of your barrel and gas block, the screws, and proceed, or have a competent smith who knows AR's perform the work for you.