Egg,
Your first reload - Excellent, congrats! 103degrees at 0530, you're a braver man than me.
OK, the 4" difference and slight offset at 100, between 300BLK supersonic and factory subs is normal. If you try a different bullet then the offset might be more or less left, or even to the right, but the 4" high will pretty much always be there. It will be even higher once you start loading lighter-weight bullets. Blackout is even slower than the Grendel so it makes sense to want the lightest bullet to get the fastest speeds. Down around the 110-125gn region is where factory supersonic loads are. If you have 180gn on hand then all good, but I would only use them in Blackout if they were dirt cheap or surplus (for training/plinking).
What Harpoon is referring to, how tight the group is (regardless of where it lands on the target), is important. This is the difference between precision and accuracy. Precision is how well the system shoots, made up of you as a shooter, the gun, the rest (your car bonnet), the weather conditions at the time, and the ammunition. If you can account for the first four, then the ammunition is the one left for tinkering with. Velocities from the chronograph are only a predictor of what you really want to know, which are results on target. So when there is a target available I would focus on that, and use velocities as a proxy for pressure, so they give us an idea of how safe the load is.
I use the Labradar as well. The advantage of not having something connected to your gun is that it's not going to influence the fall of shot, although you can get a Magneto attachment that goes on the handguard instead of the barrel. With the radar next to you, you can shoot at targets while getting a velocity for each shot, then upload the spreadsheet results later. Here's a subsonic workup for 300BLK using H4198 (also called AR2207), and 220 Sierra Match Kings. This is how I record charge work-ups, on a spreadsheet and often with their group sizes.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19859[/ATTACH]
For results on the target I use my phone to take a picture, then import it into the program OnTarget on the laptop. It's quicker and more precise than mucking about with tape measures at the time in the heat. Here's a recent sample from a 223 bolt gun.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19860[/ATTACH]
For handloading I use a combination of manufacturer tables, forum information, and the internal ballistics program called Quickload. The first two speak for themselves so here's a computer model of your load on Quickload.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19861[/ATTACH]
It predicts your load to be 1,518fps which is pretty close to what you got. This means you can do 'What-if's" at home with reasonable confidence, and without needing to spend money or go to the range. I don't know your barrel length so entered 16". Peak pressure is the red line in the graph, and is way below max which is good for safety. Also good for your first attempt at reloading. It now means you can load more powder and still be safe, but unfortunately CFE-BLK powder is too bulky. Note how it is 103.1% full ('Filling/L.R.') at your 2.215" overall length. That means you are compressing the powder as you seat the bullet, maybe even feeling a slight crunch in the handle as the bullet is seated. There's not a lot more space to compress that powder and if you do this the pressures start to become unpredictable. You could try a lighter bullet or different powder if you want more performance. Tinker with loads in the program until you are happy, then go out and buy the powder/bullets.
Your first reload - Excellent, congrats! 103degrees at 0530, you're a braver man than me.
OK, the 4" difference and slight offset at 100, between 300BLK supersonic and factory subs is normal. If you try a different bullet then the offset might be more or less left, or even to the right, but the 4" high will pretty much always be there. It will be even higher once you start loading lighter-weight bullets. Blackout is even slower than the Grendel so it makes sense to want the lightest bullet to get the fastest speeds. Down around the 110-125gn region is where factory supersonic loads are. If you have 180gn on hand then all good, but I would only use them in Blackout if they were dirt cheap or surplus (for training/plinking).
What Harpoon is referring to, how tight the group is (regardless of where it lands on the target), is important. This is the difference between precision and accuracy. Precision is how well the system shoots, made up of you as a shooter, the gun, the rest (your car bonnet), the weather conditions at the time, and the ammunition. If you can account for the first four, then the ammunition is the one left for tinkering with. Velocities from the chronograph are only a predictor of what you really want to know, which are results on target. So when there is a target available I would focus on that, and use velocities as a proxy for pressure, so they give us an idea of how safe the load is.
I use the Labradar as well. The advantage of not having something connected to your gun is that it's not going to influence the fall of shot, although you can get a Magneto attachment that goes on the handguard instead of the barrel. With the radar next to you, you can shoot at targets while getting a velocity for each shot, then upload the spreadsheet results later. Here's a subsonic workup for 300BLK using H4198 (also called AR2207), and 220 Sierra Match Kings. This is how I record charge work-ups, on a spreadsheet and often with their group sizes.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19859[/ATTACH]
For results on the target I use my phone to take a picture, then import it into the program OnTarget on the laptop. It's quicker and more precise than mucking about with tape measures at the time in the heat. Here's a recent sample from a 223 bolt gun.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19860[/ATTACH]
For handloading I use a combination of manufacturer tables, forum information, and the internal ballistics program called Quickload. The first two speak for themselves so here's a computer model of your load on Quickload.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]19861[/ATTACH]
It predicts your load to be 1,518fps which is pretty close to what you got. This means you can do 'What-if's" at home with reasonable confidence, and without needing to spend money or go to the range. I don't know your barrel length so entered 16". Peak pressure is the red line in the graph, and is way below max which is good for safety. Also good for your first attempt at reloading. It now means you can load more powder and still be safe, but unfortunately CFE-BLK powder is too bulky. Note how it is 103.1% full ('Filling/L.R.') at your 2.215" overall length. That means you are compressing the powder as you seat the bullet, maybe even feeling a slight crunch in the handle as the bullet is seated. There's not a lot more space to compress that powder and if you do this the pressures start to become unpredictable. You could try a lighter bullet or different powder if you want more performance. Tinker with loads in the program until you are happy, then go out and buy the powder/bullets.