05-04-2023, 12:35 PM
ulmapache Wrote:I know this is an old thread, but here goes. Have finished my project, A-2 left handed clone 6.5 grendel. We have no ranges in the area worth messing with, better to find an open area and set up a target. My question: Need POI vs POA for a 36 yard zero as in Marine Corp zero. There are sites that discuss this for the 5.56, but not for the Grendel. Appreciate the replies...and plz don't be too hard on this noob... Had fun building it...and looking forward to building the next one for hunting. This one is for defense.
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UMP:
Out to 300 yards or meters depending on your likes, the trajectories of almost every rifle round are extremely close. They vary a few inches and this is meaningless in terms of upper torso shots on humans to 300.
Zero it at 25 or zero it at 36 yards and you will hold the upper torso at 300. The 25 meter zero will probably give you more danger space when past 300 but both will work.
Just understand that any reduced range zero was originally intended to get the shooter on paper at the true zero distance. Then the guy gets his true zero.
I would not trust any short range zero to be good enough to risk my life unless it was with machineguns.
Why 36 yards I wonder? May be technically correct for issued ball and issued carbines and issued sights but in reality my bet is most military shooters wouldn't be able to tell the difference between a 25 meter and 36 yard close range zero.
You say this is for defense. Do a short range zero at what ever distance you want, 25 meters or 36 yards. Then confirm on a E Sil at the true distance. It should be 300. If you think you only need a shorter zero, put your target up at the range you think is right and zero it there. A 25 meter zero will shoot high to about 250. A 36 yard zero may be closer to center at 250 but will probably be a bit low at 300.
Bottom line -- confirm at the distance you want the zero.
LR55