02-09-2023, 01:01 AM
I see, thanks!
Going through each point:
1. I don't have a bore scope or anything that would act as one, but I'm pretty certain it is aligned.
2. I don't think the bolts I have use an o-ring on the extractor.
3. I don't have a gas tube gauge, but it looks okay visually. I can blow through the gas tube, with it on the block, and only feel it coming out through the block. If I close the bleed-off valve and plug the gas block hole with my finger, no air will go through. If I fully close the gas block, no air will go through. If I leave the bleed-off open and plug the hole, air will go through the bleed-off valve.
4. Just checked the gas key. Didn't move at 30 inch pounds. The staking isn't perfect, but it seems to be holding just fine. I don't have weed wacker line, but checked it with a length of 3D printer filament and it seems fine.
5. I don't have pin gauges, but I checked it with calipers (and drill bits as go/no-go) and it seems to be right at 3/32. So should I drill one size up? The next largest drill bit I have is 7/64.
6. I actually do have a new bolt carrier coming, though it isn't proven. Maybe it will work better. But the bolt carrier I have is the original one, which worked fine before the barrel swap. Theoretically, I could pull the bolt carrier from my other AR If I need to. But again, this one worked before the barrel swap.
7. Yep, gas tube is the proper length (rifle length). Is there anything I should double-check there? Like the exact distance it comes into the upper receiver or something? I did a rough measurement when I did the swap and it is in approximately the same place as the original gas tube was.
I guess my main question is: is there any downside to opening up the gas port, then reducing flow with the adjustable gas block? I can't think of any reasons why that would be an issue, especially since this Superlative Arms gas block has a fancy bleed-off instead of just restriction, but I want to be sure before I go drilling into a $300 barrel.
Going through each point:
1. I don't have a bore scope or anything that would act as one, but I'm pretty certain it is aligned.
2. I don't think the bolts I have use an o-ring on the extractor.
3. I don't have a gas tube gauge, but it looks okay visually. I can blow through the gas tube, with it on the block, and only feel it coming out through the block. If I close the bleed-off valve and plug the gas block hole with my finger, no air will go through. If I fully close the gas block, no air will go through. If I leave the bleed-off open and plug the hole, air will go through the bleed-off valve.
4. Just checked the gas key. Didn't move at 30 inch pounds. The staking isn't perfect, but it seems to be holding just fine. I don't have weed wacker line, but checked it with a length of 3D printer filament and it seems fine.
5. I don't have pin gauges, but I checked it with calipers (and drill bits as go/no-go) and it seems to be right at 3/32. So should I drill one size up? The next largest drill bit I have is 7/64.
6. I actually do have a new bolt carrier coming, though it isn't proven. Maybe it will work better. But the bolt carrier I have is the original one, which worked fine before the barrel swap. Theoretically, I could pull the bolt carrier from my other AR If I need to. But again, this one worked before the barrel swap.
7. Yep, gas tube is the proper length (rifle length). Is there anything I should double-check there? Like the exact distance it comes into the upper receiver or something? I did a rough measurement when I did the swap and it is in approximately the same place as the original gas tube was.
I guess my main question is: is there any downside to opening up the gas port, then reducing flow with the adjustable gas block? I can't think of any reasons why that would be an issue, especially since this Superlative Arms gas block has a fancy bleed-off instead of just restriction, but I want to be sure before I go drilling into a $300 barrel.