11-30-2022, 06:08 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-02-2022, 04:10 AM by lazyengineer.)
Great thread - because TBH, I really don't know. Over the years, I've kind of leaned more towards LR1955's philosophy myself. My own practice is basically don't clean the rifle at all if just a simple outing. After a few hundred rounds, I'll maybe spray some CLP or equivilant through the ejection port onto the bolt, and maybe into the BCG vent hole. And pull a boresnake with a bit of CLP on it.
After 500 rounds or so, I sometimes will do a full barrel cleaning, just because. On that day, my practice (And I'm not saying this is The Correct way, just what I do)
Solvents:
-CLP or equivalent. Sometimes Royal Purple.
-Lubriplate, or Red Mobil One Grease
-BoreTech CU++ Solvent. (Note, not BoreTech Eleminator - read too many posts in other forums of people getting weird snail-trail etching in their bores in correlation to that stuff)
-Butches Solvent when I want a general copper + carbon solvent.
Process:
-Pull BCG and strip, whip down with cloth and then lube.
--Lube is Lubriplate or similar on any wear-location, bolt lugs (both sides), and Cam Pin.
--Then spray it all with CLP or Royal Purple.
-Push a dry patch through the bore, to get out the easy stuff
-then put a copper brush on the tip, and run it all the way through and all the way back, about 20 times (yes, that's a lot), to blow out the fouling via mild abrasion.
-The copper brush will leave copper deposition in it's own right.
-Dry patch
-Wet Cu++ Solvent Patch - it will be quite blue.
Note: (most of my outings involve more than one firearm, so I intermingle these cleaning steps to give some soak time)
-Dry patch - blue
-Repeat above 2 steps about 10-20 times, until patches come out basically clean.
-a couple extra dry patches to purge out the solvent
-a wet patch with CLP or Royal Purple (avoid lubes with Teflon)
-A dry patch
-Reassemble and store muzzle-down in the safe.
As LR1955 notes, your zero is now going to be off for your next shot, as the barrel is no longer the same. It will take at least 2 shots before you should trust POI to actually be about the same - sometimes more. Irrelevant if hunting a hog at 50 yards. More important, if your next stop is the 600 yard Mid-Range match.
After 500 rounds or so, I sometimes will do a full barrel cleaning, just because. On that day, my practice (And I'm not saying this is The Correct way, just what I do)
Solvents:
-CLP or equivalent. Sometimes Royal Purple.
-Lubriplate, or Red Mobil One Grease
-BoreTech CU++ Solvent. (Note, not BoreTech Eleminator - read too many posts in other forums of people getting weird snail-trail etching in their bores in correlation to that stuff)
-Butches Solvent when I want a general copper + carbon solvent.
Process:
-Pull BCG and strip, whip down with cloth and then lube.
--Lube is Lubriplate or similar on any wear-location, bolt lugs (both sides), and Cam Pin.
--Then spray it all with CLP or Royal Purple.
-Push a dry patch through the bore, to get out the easy stuff
-then put a copper brush on the tip, and run it all the way through and all the way back, about 20 times (yes, that's a lot), to blow out the fouling via mild abrasion.
-The copper brush will leave copper deposition in it's own right.
-Dry patch
-Wet Cu++ Solvent Patch - it will be quite blue.
Note: (most of my outings involve more than one firearm, so I intermingle these cleaning steps to give some soak time)
-Dry patch - blue
-Repeat above 2 steps about 10-20 times, until patches come out basically clean.
-a couple extra dry patches to purge out the solvent
-a wet patch with CLP or Royal Purple (avoid lubes with Teflon)
-A dry patch
-Reassemble and store muzzle-down in the safe.
As LR1955 notes, your zero is now going to be off for your next shot, as the barrel is no longer the same. It will take at least 2 shots before you should trust POI to actually be about the same - sometimes more. Irrelevant if hunting a hog at 50 yards. More important, if your next stop is the 600 yard Mid-Range match.
4x P100