06-19-2022, 04:07 AM
lazyengineer Wrote:FWIW, with the AR assembly I find that the only tools you really need are:
Armorers wrench (PSA is my personal favorite actually, for the buffer tube)
A set of cavity-tip punches (for holding and driving in the roll-pins)
A set of ball-tip punches (for driving the roll-pins all the way in)
The correct punches like that will solve a great number of your challenges. They are quite inexpensive, really - get a cheap set, it's fine.
The punches also are useful for putting in the trigger-group, as a guide/hold on one side, while inserting the trigger pins in via the other. And if you have large enough punches, A large one run through the other side of the take-down pin hole can be useful on the front, to help hold the spring and detent in place for then inserting the front take-down pin.
The only big item left to watch out for is the bolt-release pin insertion, where putting down a sticker or piece of paper or such, will prevent the hammer and punch handle from marring the back of the receiver area as you have to work that funny angle to drive the bolt-release retaining roll-pin into place.
That's really about it.
Like everything, we all have our opinions. To build a quality rifle, it is necessary to understand the tolerances and the proper torque value when specified IMO.. A lot of time and money has gone into R&D for the AR platform and it is foolish to ignore such information when it is quite available with a little effort IMO..Stacking tolerances will almost always rear it's ugly head when using parts from different manufacturers.. The better the information,tools and knowledge, the better the rifle IMO..The one necessary tool you forgot was a good vice. I would add many other things like a NcSTAR vise block jig if building a carbine, MI-URR - MI Upper Receiver Rod, torque wrenches in ft lbs and inch lbs.. I prefer the Midwest Industries AR Professional Armorer's Wrench or the Magpul..There are only a few manufacturers I will use for my detents, springs, castle nuts, etc.
It all depends on how much a person wants to invest into their build and knowledge of the platform. Some guys have built AR rifles with the upper between their legs when tightening the barrel nut, while using the cheapest parts available and are completely satisfied with their creation...I have seen procedures being recommended on this forum that makes me wince in pain, "but if the builder is happy with the end result" I won't argue..When a build won't function and the person becomes demoralized thinking of all the time and money they spent on a non functioning rifle, the incentive to learn more usually becomes much stronger...
Here are the basic's Chad from the American rifle recommends for beginners..I didn't post his professional list LOL...
******************BASIC LIST******************
In my opinion these are the basic items for inspection, maintenance, and minor upgrades.
-Brownells Screwdriver (Best) or Wheeler Gunsmith Screwdriver Set (Good)
The Brownells has a lifetime warranty which means if you break a bit, Brownells will replace it
with no questions asked. Using Gunsmith Bits are a MUST if you don't want to hack up you AR,
or your other firearms.
-SAE & Metric Socket Set
-Inch Pound Torque Wrench
I like the Wheeler FAT Wrench (Non Digital). The best prices are usually on Amazon. It does
forward and reverse torque and clicks/breaks when it reaches the setting. These are great for
mounting Rails, Optics, and Gas Key Screws. I own 5 of these and they have held up at myWork Bench and in Classes. Borka and Fix it Sticks are good alternatives, but Wheeler is still
my favorite.
-Cheap Steel & Brass 17pc Punch Set
You can get these from Amazon. The kits come with a Spring Loaded Center Punch which can
be used for Castle Nut Staking, or "Field Staking" the top of the Carrier Key.
-Needle Nose Plier Set
-Tape Measure
For measuring Buffer Springs.
-.080 Weed Eater Line
-4 to 8 Ounce Ball Peen Hammer
You don't want a roofing hammer or a claw hammer. A 4 Ounce Ball Peen is my favorite.
-Harbor Freight Rubber Mallet
Great for moving stubborn parts without damaging the material or finish.
-Harbor Freight Plastic Dead Blow Hammer
Great for moving stubborn parts without damaging the material or finish.
-Small Carbon Steel Washer
For checking parts for Magnetism.
-Digital or Analog Calipers
These are for basic checking of parts and for doing a crude a Firing Pin Protrusion check. You
can buy a budget models but you can't always trust them. In my opinion, it's better to have a
Harbor Freight Caliper than nothing, but if you can afford it a good Mitutoyo will give a lifetime of
reliable service.
-1.4646 Forster 5.56 GO Headspace Gauge (Brownells)
-Feeler Gauge Set
-Obsidian Arms AR15 Punch Set
-Little Crow Gunworks Bolt Catch Tool
-Brownells Magazine Catch Install Tool
-Brownells Chamber Reflector Tool-Starrett 117c (Best) or Mayhew 5/32x4 1/2 punch (Good)
These are for staking the Castle Nut if you don't like using to use Spring Loaded Center Punch
-Pivot Pin Install Tool
You can use an Exacto Knife, Magnet, 1?4" Clevis Pin & Punch, Real Avid Tool, or other
specialized Tools made for this job. The Real Avid is one of the easiest to use and cost
effective.
-M-Guns Gas Tube Bender
-Brownells Gas Tube Wrench/Vise
-Snap Ring Pliers
-Geissele Hammer & Trigger Install Pin Tool
This helps install the AR FCG, but can be used to Oil or Abrasive Lap the bores in an AR Lower
Receiver if they are too small.
-AR General Purpose Brush
-Iosso AR Nylon Brush Set
I don't use bronze or stainless brushes for firearms.
-Rapid Rod (Best) or Steel USGI Sectioned Cleaning Rod (Good)
These are not for regular cleaning. They are great for cleaning in the field and for dislodging a
stuck casing.
-One Piece Cleaning Rod and AR Upper Receiver Bore Guide
-Optics Cleaning Kit
-Basic Chemicals/Solvents
Aeroshell 64 (Barrel Nuts and Castle Nuts)
Rocksett or Loctite 271/272
Blue Stick Loctite (NOT the liquid type)
Vibratite VC3
Cold Blue (Steel Touch-up)
Aluminum Black (Aluminum Touch-up)
Synthetic Grease (Assembly Lube)
Kroil Oil (Seized Fasteners)
Steel Wool
Loctite 620 or Permatex Indian Gasket Shellac (Barrel Bedding and for Carrier/Gas Key Installs)Lubricant
Bore Cleaner (I like Wipe Out Products)
Birchwood Casey Barricade (Great for external wipe down