FWIW if using the adafruit vibration sensor switches no capacitor or resistor has been needed in my experience. I've been using mine that way for about 20 months.
https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partg...ches/68699
I prefer the medium switch, I can trigger the fast with just hand tremor. Dropping the bolt on any semi will trigger it, so I do that first then arm the Labradar.
I use a loop of shock-cord with a plastic cord lock to attach the sensor. I typically will put it on the scope tube or bell but I can attach it anywhere; hand guard, bipod etc.
For a simple enclosure and to ease assembly I used a 3.5mm 3 pole stereo male plug connector. It is still fine soldering but a heck of a lot easier than going wire to wire and it makes for a pretty sturdy package.
It also allows rapid changing of the switches if you wish to have one of each sensitivity for different tasks (fast for air gun, slow for a .50 etc.).
This all being said my time is valuable enough to me I wouldn't make them and sell them for what https://pietrecoiltrigger.com/ charges. I had all the equipment and components on hand except the switches so it was an inexpensive project for me to try.
EDIT:
One other point on why I arm after closing the bolt. As Klem noted a false trigger can give a "failed to track projectile" error. That one is no big deal, BUT, it can also give a random velocity reading as well. That one is a big deal if you forget where in a string it happened and don't delete it or delete the wrong shot. Piet has video of this issue on his site.
https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partg...ches/68699
I prefer the medium switch, I can trigger the fast with just hand tremor. Dropping the bolt on any semi will trigger it, so I do that first then arm the Labradar.
I use a loop of shock-cord with a plastic cord lock to attach the sensor. I typically will put it on the scope tube or bell but I can attach it anywhere; hand guard, bipod etc.
For a simple enclosure and to ease assembly I used a 3.5mm 3 pole stereo male plug connector. It is still fine soldering but a heck of a lot easier than going wire to wire and it makes for a pretty sturdy package.
It also allows rapid changing of the switches if you wish to have one of each sensitivity for different tasks (fast for air gun, slow for a .50 etc.).
This all being said my time is valuable enough to me I wouldn't make them and sell them for what https://pietrecoiltrigger.com/ charges. I had all the equipment and components on hand except the switches so it was an inexpensive project for me to try.
EDIT:
One other point on why I arm after closing the bolt. As Klem noted a false trigger can give a "failed to track projectile" error. That one is no big deal, BUT, it can also give a random velocity reading as well. That one is a big deal if you forget where in a string it happened and don't delete it or delete the wrong shot. Piet has video of this issue on his site.