09-18-2020, 05:32 AM
I have had Bobro, GG&G, AD, and LaRue mounts. Of all of them, I like LaRue mounts the best. Not that any of the others don't work or aren't reliable, I just find them to be the best option for QD mounts for my situation and in my experience.
I have 4 Grendles, which are currently ready to share two optics, in two mounts - (down from four of each). One mount is a LaRue LT-745 20 MOA, and in which is mounted an Eotech VUDU 5-25. I can switch the QD between my pistol "truck build" and my LaRue Rifle, move zero up or down three clicks and be on at 100. (1.5" high of true center). The rifle is "home" for this scope, and it is the higher of the two zeros. This worked out perfectly, as I have 5/10 under the zero stop as I it have set. The other mount is another LaRue; An LT104, in FDE, that came with the Rifle originally. It's been on and off a few guns now, for three years. It's been swapped more than I care to report, and more than I can truthfully remember. It's always been within "huntin" zero, on any gun I've put it on. Which is perfect too, because it's now got a Vortex Gen 1 PST 1-4 in it. This will from now on my bush hunting scope "set up". With the LT-104, with every optic I've had in it, I always found that I'm hitting within two inches of center with the first round (most assuredly a vital hit at 100), regardless of what rifle I've swapped it onto. It's so reliable at this, that when I mounted the PST into it and tightened the rings, I never even bothered to bore sight it. I put it on the pistol, shot it, and first impact was one mil three tenths high and one mil one tenth right at 100. After adjusting the zero, I sent 5 rounds on target down range and I've never looked back. It's on.
This hasn't left my pistol yet, but I will be able to confidently - without a concern or doubt in my mind - swap it to the Howa, the LaRue, or my 30-30, and know that (IF I don't forget to dial the zero correction I've learned from all this swapping...) my shot while holding on the desired point of impact will be an ethically lethal one.
Here's what I've learned about QD optic mounts.
1) They are what they are; and they aren't what they're not. They were never meant to be relied on to make it possible for you not to have to buy an optic for every rifle you own. A good one may allow this to an extent, but it'll also take you getting to know what it really does to have real confidence in it.
2) They're not meant to be a precision mount. What I mean by this is, IME - QD's are typically within 2 moa when swapping weapons; pretty much as a matter of course. The better ones will of course be better, but you're not going to be able to sight in on one rifle, and get the same POI on four different guns.
a) QDs are meant to allow you to to detach your optic from your weapon, store it safely in a hard case or soft padded bag, and cart your shooting system home in two pieces, increasing your ability to protect the more delicate part - the optic - more easily.
b) Or, battlefield-swap your optic from a broken or black weapon to an alternative, keeping you in the fight. A good quality QD will accomplish either job, admirably.
3) QDs introduce more human error. You have to remember what rifle you're on. What your zero shift for this rifle is - how many clicks up from the other gun was it?... -. Where your zero is set - for which rifle did I zero this, and is it the right one, or is my memory fading... -? Is it in the right slot on your rail? ---
As DNS so astutely put it above - 'I know several guys who move scopes between rifles. They have their settings for each rifle and adjust the scope accordingly. Probably 99% of the time, it works great. The other 1% I hear comments like "I don't know what happened" followed by "this has never happened before." '
4) Expect to verify zero every time you plan to remove it from the rail. You're not going to find a miracle mount that will allow you to remove and replace it and be gnat's-azz-zeroed. A good one will get you very close, but be realistic. You're going to have to verify the zero to go from confident --> positive. And as we all know, that knowing is worth it's weight in solid gold.
5) QDs are potentially susceptible to foreign material -
a) Between your rail and the mount, possibly causing a shift in POI, and in come cases even damage to your rail.
b) In the mount's mechanisms, potentially locking the mount onto, or off of your weapon.
6) Probably the most important and time-tested lesson: The guy with the SPUHR is always going to look at your QD mounted rig and laugh behind his eyes.
As always - when selecting gear for your shooting system - buying something because it's cheaper will cost you in the long run! Likely twice the amount of the more expensive thing you thought you couldn't afford up front. Do yourself a huge favor, and buy quality gear and components.
I have 4 Grendles, which are currently ready to share two optics, in two mounts - (down from four of each). One mount is a LaRue LT-745 20 MOA, and in which is mounted an Eotech VUDU 5-25. I can switch the QD between my pistol "truck build" and my LaRue Rifle, move zero up or down three clicks and be on at 100. (1.5" high of true center). The rifle is "home" for this scope, and it is the higher of the two zeros. This worked out perfectly, as I have 5/10 under the zero stop as I it have set. The other mount is another LaRue; An LT104, in FDE, that came with the Rifle originally. It's been on and off a few guns now, for three years. It's been swapped more than I care to report, and more than I can truthfully remember. It's always been within "huntin" zero, on any gun I've put it on. Which is perfect too, because it's now got a Vortex Gen 1 PST 1-4 in it. This will from now on my bush hunting scope "set up". With the LT-104, with every optic I've had in it, I always found that I'm hitting within two inches of center with the first round (most assuredly a vital hit at 100), regardless of what rifle I've swapped it onto. It's so reliable at this, that when I mounted the PST into it and tightened the rings, I never even bothered to bore sight it. I put it on the pistol, shot it, and first impact was one mil three tenths high and one mil one tenth right at 100. After adjusting the zero, I sent 5 rounds on target down range and I've never looked back. It's on.
This hasn't left my pistol yet, but I will be able to confidently - without a concern or doubt in my mind - swap it to the Howa, the LaRue, or my 30-30, and know that (IF I don't forget to dial the zero correction I've learned from all this swapping...) my shot while holding on the desired point of impact will be an ethically lethal one.
Here's what I've learned about QD optic mounts.
1) They are what they are; and they aren't what they're not. They were never meant to be relied on to make it possible for you not to have to buy an optic for every rifle you own. A good one may allow this to an extent, but it'll also take you getting to know what it really does to have real confidence in it.
2) They're not meant to be a precision mount. What I mean by this is, IME - QD's are typically within 2 moa when swapping weapons; pretty much as a matter of course. The better ones will of course be better, but you're not going to be able to sight in on one rifle, and get the same POI on four different guns.
a) QDs are meant to allow you to to detach your optic from your weapon, store it safely in a hard case or soft padded bag, and cart your shooting system home in two pieces, increasing your ability to protect the more delicate part - the optic - more easily.
b) Or, battlefield-swap your optic from a broken or black weapon to an alternative, keeping you in the fight. A good quality QD will accomplish either job, admirably.
3) QDs introduce more human error. You have to remember what rifle you're on. What your zero shift for this rifle is - how many clicks up from the other gun was it?... -. Where your zero is set - for which rifle did I zero this, and is it the right one, or is my memory fading... -? Is it in the right slot on your rail? ---
As DNS so astutely put it above - 'I know several guys who move scopes between rifles. They have their settings for each rifle and adjust the scope accordingly. Probably 99% of the time, it works great. The other 1% I hear comments like "I don't know what happened" followed by "this has never happened before." '
4) Expect to verify zero every time you plan to remove it from the rail. You're not going to find a miracle mount that will allow you to remove and replace it and be gnat's-azz-zeroed. A good one will get you very close, but be realistic. You're going to have to verify the zero to go from confident --> positive. And as we all know, that knowing is worth it's weight in solid gold.
5) QDs are potentially susceptible to foreign material -
a) Between your rail and the mount, possibly causing a shift in POI, and in come cases even damage to your rail.
b) In the mount's mechanisms, potentially locking the mount onto, or off of your weapon.
6) Probably the most important and time-tested lesson: The guy with the SPUHR is always going to look at your QD mounted rig and laugh behind his eyes.
As always - when selecting gear for your shooting system - buying something because it's cheaper will cost you in the long run! Likely twice the amount of the more expensive thing you thought you couldn't afford up front. Do yourself a huge favor, and buy quality gear and components.
Nothing kills the incentive of men faster than a healthy sense of entitlement. Nothing kills entitlement faster than a healthy sense of achievement.