04-23-2020, 01:05 PM
Klem Wrote:Metalnephrine,
Cycling back to your original question is there anything 'suboptimal' about your build. I don't have experience with any of those parts so this will be more an overview reply.
Optimal to you will not be optimal to me or others; it depends what you want to do with it. If you want the most accurate gun then barrel, scope and trigger should get all the love and attention and not buy any other parts that will drag the potential of those three main parts down. For accuracy I would also get a fixed rear stock. If money is no option then you tend to get what you pay for and I would make sure all the main frame is as strong as possible; 7075 aluminium for upper, lower, handguard and buffer tube. An AR is as flimsy a receiver as you can get so for accuracy you need to strengthen it as much as possible and the more weight the better.
If practical shooting is your expectation then full ambidextrous parts; charge handle, selector, mag release and slide release would be my preference. Plus a barrel length that is reasonable for being practical while optimising what is already a slow 6.5 calibre; 18-20", no longer and no shorter. For practical shooting a big, long-range bolt gun scope on the gun is out of proportion with the rest of what is a compact AR15, although not as important if practical means shooting animals and not prepping or mil skills. Practical guns also use forward mounted bipods and stick tripods.
If you want the most accurate gun then I agree with A5, drop the bipod for a proper bench rest: a bench tripod and rear bag. Your group sizes will shrink immediately and highlights how the gun and its connection with the ground is a system that is only as good as its weakest link. Where the shooting discipline permits, you won't find any folding bipod shooters winning the prizes. The reason being for ultimate accuracy the gun needs to track smoothly and on the same plane as the target in the recoil. Or, if not this then at least recoil the same way every shot. With a fixed bipod that is physically impossible. This is why F-Class stocks are designed to be parallel to the barrel, both front and back. Also why in some Bench Rest shooting having a gun that does not come off the aim in the recoil is banned (it is too easy).
If your handguard is tubular I would think about how to mitigate the axial recoil for absolute accuracy. The barrel will be right hand twist and the gun will jerk the opposite way on firing. This is why F-Class stocks are 3" wide and flat at the front (not allowed any wider otherwise they would), and weigh 8kg. So they track parallel to the bore, the weight of the gun and barrel absorbs as much recoil as possible. Bipods have a tendency to jump up in the recoil.
Make sure your scope has good repeatability. This means the movable erector reticle mechanism inside is in exactly the same position after each shot. There is a lot of flexing and G-forces on what is a precision instrument with moving parts. There is no specification for repeatability, it is never listed on manufacturer websites. The only way you can realise repeatability is by mounting and shooting, or get a feel by talking to others who use the scope and have experience with other scopes. Then you have to filter out the agendas and brand loyalty. Unfortunately it is not readily discernible when comparing scopes. Yet this is a critical feature of precision and accuracy. My only advice here is to start by not skimping on price and use reputation and country-of-origin as a buying guide (I don't mean nationalistic 'made-in-usa', I mean a county's overall reputation for producing quality glass and precision machinery).
It sounds like a really nice gun. Have you shot a few 3 and 4 rd groups yet?
Klem,
Thanks for trying to get this thread back on Topic. If you have time can you share any more info on " An AR is as flimsy a receiver as you can get so for accuracy you need to strengthen it as much as possible and the more weight the better"
Does a Machined Billet upper change this?