03-22-2020, 03:25 AM
I have some general comments, but I believe A5 has some experience with the 95 Trex bullets. I have not shot them, nor am I using any H322 for my loads. $0.02 ... ok, maybe 10 cents' worth 
So hope this helps.
1. You say you are shooting a ladder, but I do not see any chrono data. You really need to do development over a chrony. The MV's, ES and SD numbers will tell you a lot more than the paper.
2. Is that Arp barrel the older 264 LBC style (single angle throat) or the Saami Grendel compound throat angle. Straight wall chambered throats may not do all bullets that well, they are designed more for a couple particular ones. Arp has done both styles of chamber.
3. How many shots do you have through the barrel, if less than about 75-100 it might be too early to generalize on group sizes/ performance. shoot some more of the 123 and 110's to complete the break in.
4. You would be better off doing your development with 1x or 2x fired brass so it is sized to your chamber.
5. I wouldn't generalize with just 2, 3-shot groups on the 123sst and the 110 Underwood's. Btw when I shot the 110 Chaos they did the best with 8208xbr, for both my 16" and 20" barrels.
6. Sad to say, but some barrels simply do not "like" certain bullets. Your experiences with your Makers... may come down to that. Have you tried the 95 Vmax (for varmint of course), or perhaps the 100 Ttsx for medium game.
7. 26.0 to 28.8C is the load range for H322 and the 95 Vmax (Hodgdon), which is a cup/core bullet. Usually for a solid (mono) bullet you can't dial up the powder as hot or as much as a cup/core style.
IIRC Klem had some advice on how to decipher bullets that move when going into battery. May want to search the forum on this, I don't recall where it's written down. May simply involve shooting first one, letting #2 strip into battery, then don't fire it but eject and measure for any length increase.
There are others on here with some experience with the Trex's, maybe they'll chime in.
Stay safe.
So hope this helps.1. You say you are shooting a ladder, but I do not see any chrono data. You really need to do development over a chrony. The MV's, ES and SD numbers will tell you a lot more than the paper.
2. Is that Arp barrel the older 264 LBC style (single angle throat) or the Saami Grendel compound throat angle. Straight wall chambered throats may not do all bullets that well, they are designed more for a couple particular ones. Arp has done both styles of chamber.
3. How many shots do you have through the barrel, if less than about 75-100 it might be too early to generalize on group sizes/ performance. shoot some more of the 123 and 110's to complete the break in.
4. You would be better off doing your development with 1x or 2x fired brass so it is sized to your chamber.
5. I wouldn't generalize with just 2, 3-shot groups on the 123sst and the 110 Underwood's. Btw when I shot the 110 Chaos they did the best with 8208xbr, for both my 16" and 20" barrels.
6. Sad to say, but some barrels simply do not "like" certain bullets. Your experiences with your Makers... may come down to that. Have you tried the 95 Vmax (for varmint of course), or perhaps the 100 Ttsx for medium game.
7. 26.0 to 28.8C is the load range for H322 and the 95 Vmax (Hodgdon), which is a cup/core bullet. Usually for a solid (mono) bullet you can't dial up the powder as hot or as much as a cup/core style.
IIRC Klem had some advice on how to decipher bullets that move when going into battery. May want to search the forum on this, I don't recall where it's written down. May simply involve shooting first one, letting #2 strip into battery, then don't fire it but eject and measure for any length increase.
There are others on here with some experience with the Trex's, maybe they'll chime in.
Stay safe.
"Down the floor, out the door, Go Brandon Go!!!!!"