02-15-2020, 02:55 PM
Jorge0272 Wrote:Going to try some 123 ELDs and also some SMKs.
Going to also purchase some factory ammo, probably American Gunner, and see how those shoot.
Ok so let's break it down what we know so far.
Unknown load possible hot and contacting the lands.
Slapped toghter rifle not built to maximize the accuracy it can do.
Crappy bench technique and postion.
Correcttorque specs is complete diffrent from what is best for accuracy. Muzzle device torque, torque on the gas block screws and even torque on the barrel nut will effect your groupings.
Main point is it's not 223/556 do to having more bullet mass and more felt recoil you have to man up and drive the rifle more then you would the 22 cal.
Here is what I suggest.
Get some good bench bags and bag the front and rear of the rifle for shooting groups.
Get a better trigger maybe needed.
Drop the barrel nut torque to 35 or 40 foot pounds.
Retorque the gas block screws to no more then 15 inch pounds, 10 is better if your gas block will hold with that torque setting.
Pull the muzzle device throw away the crush washer and get the accuwasher system and time the muzzle device so it times and stays put with blue locktite and no more then 5 inch pounds of torque ( basicly handtight)
If there is money leavt for upgrade parts drop a lowmass bcg and standard weight buffer and spring in and adjust the gas for lock back.
Lapp the reciver face and get some steel shim stock in a roll and do a freeze and heat barrel bedding job on the barrel.
Then lose the handloads and try several factory loads that others are getting good groups with.
You never said are showed what the load work up looked like we have to assume you didn't do one and just dropped a load in the rifle. If that is true, you need to stop and don't shoot handloads anymore until you get the correct tools to measure jumps and headspace and a chrongraph to watch speeds and know when you have reached max or high pressure in your chamber.
Hope this helps sir.

